Anyone galvanized a chassis?

Post by **M25VAN** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 3:45 pm

I have a van chassis that I am thinking of getting galvanized. It is sound with just surface pitted rust from long term storage. I've had a couple of rough quotes, the cheaper being about £120+vat and preperation based on a minimum weight of anything up to 100kgs. When I discussed the process with the firm they were quite open about all the risks of distortion and internal box section coverage problems.
I thought that the acid dip that they did to prep the work would remove all the surface rust on the chassis both inside and out but it seems this is just to 'clean up' the surface ready for the molten zinc. I was told that any rust would need to be sand blasted first. My problem with this is the extra cost (not sure yet) and how well it can be done inside all the enclosed bits.
Has anyone had this done successfully ?

Post by **RussLCV** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:25 pm

I know of one................done a few years ago now........

Post by **chickenjohn** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:44 pm

120 + vat is cheap for an acid dip and galvanising.

Post by **M25VAN** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 7:56 am

Thanks for the pic Russ, that does look nice.
Yes £120 does sound cheap but as I found out the acid dip wasn't meant to remove any rust as such just to clean up the surface to take the zinc. My concern was the extra cost of the sand blasting and how effective this would be inside the chassis. I was told that anything at all left in the chassis rails could stop the galvanazing process or come out and affect the finish elsewhere. Just wondered if anyone else has had success as it wasn't the straightforward process I thought it was......

Post by **jonathon** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 8:18 am

Can the chassis be left in the acid for a longer period, to remove the rust. Failing this take it to SPL have it dipped and E coated, or dipped then, galved at your original place.

Post by **paulhumphries** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 9:46 am

I get galv done for free (at plant owners knowledge)
Having a chassis done might be pushing the perk a little but I've have had loads of smaller items done over the years.
During the restoration of a Land Rover I had every small steel part done.
Some were very rusty and pitted.
I have things acid dipped to remove the rust before getting them back and repairing etc . They are then quickly acid dipped again to remove any further rust and galved.
The platers don't like paint, oil, grease etc on parts as it contaminated the acid bath but rust definaltey isn't a provlem.
Look around their yard at items awaiting plating - ofter they are thick with it yet the acid compeltley removes.

Paul Humphries

Post by **M25VAN** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:15 am

[quote="jonathon"]Can the chassis be left in the acid for a longer period, to remove the rust. [/quote]
Yes, that's what I thought they did but not the two I tried.

As soon as I mentioned surface rust they said it needs to come off first.

[quote="jonathon"]Failing this take it to SPL have it dipped and E coated, or dipped then, galved at your original place.[/quote]
I'd love to do that and have seen your pics in another post but the cost is too much for me I'm afraid.

[quote="paulhumphries"]I get galv done for free (at plant owners knowledge)
Paul Humphries[/quote]

Now you are making me green with envy....

[quote="paulhumphries"]
The platers don't like paint, oil, grease etc on parts as it contaminated the acid bath but rust definaltey isn't a provlem.
Look around their yard at items awaiting plating - ofter they are thick with it yet the acid compeltley removes.

Paul Humphries[/quote]

That's the impression I got. One of them even told me it would be better to buy a new chassis and take it straight to be plated.

Sounded like the cleaner I took it to them the less they had to do.
It may just be a case of finding somewhere that is happy to acid dip until it's rust free etc
Think I'll take your advice Paul and see what the jobs waiting to be done look like.

P.S. Sorry but quotes don't seem to be working properly for me....

Post by **paulhumphries** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:36 am

M25VAN wrote:
paulhumphries wrote:I get galv done for free (at plant owners knowledge)
Paul Humphries
Now you are making me green with envy....

A friend is the night shift manager.
They don't do much work at night but there has to be someone on site 24hr. The position of the factory, near to residental area, means they are limited at amount of noise that can be made at night so no heavy jobs, lorries, fork lifts etc. This then is a slack period where the workers often just sit around doing nothing is no small jobs.
Owners know workers will do "foreigners" so the rule is don't take the "wee wee" and no money can change hands.
Normally I just buy a big bag of cheap biscuits and leave them in the staff room.
The quality of the work isn't the best - they specialise in the lower end of the market with such things as farm fitting, gates and such.
I tend to use galv as a rust proof undercoat with paint on top (I use a brushable etching primer from Hammerite).
If I wanted quality work such as the exposed galv edging on a Land Rover I'd happilly pay to get an acceptable finish as I doubt the company the friend works could match original stanard.

Paul Humphries

Post by **jonathon** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:42 am

I don't think SPL would charge much just for the acid dip,to remove all traces of paint through to rust. They will pacify the bare metal with oil solution which your galver's should'nt have a problem with. Then just have them galve it. Current cost to dip, for one of our customers, and this is for a full car mind is £350, so just a chassis should be much less.
Although the initial cost might be higher than you'd like, its the right time and place to be spending money as you will almost have a new car/chassis.

Post by **M25VAN** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 12:56 pm

Just spoke to SPL Jonathon, they were very helpfull. Cost would be £200-250 for the chemical strip and oil pacification with the same again for the E coating. Advantages over galvanizing are that no extra holes will need to be drilled for drainage, no chance of distortion and the chemical strip will definately leave no rust or bits inside unlike the shot blasting process.
I may just go for the chemical strip and then waxoyl/dinitrol the inside and paint the outside. This is what I did on my first replacement chassis and it has lasted 15 years. I can then repair the original off car and introduce a rolling 15 year replacement program.

I will also look at doing the strip myself as I have used some of the crystal type rust removers to great effect. All I would need to do is make up a 'tank' out of polythene rather like a kiddies pool and immerse the chassis in it. With carefull extra packing it shouldn't need too much liquid. Someone I have bought from off of ebay is advertising enough crystal to make up 120ltr for about £10