Its sill time

Post by **youngun** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 5:25 pm

Ive got new sill sections on order from ESM, im doing the offside first.........The floor is going to be repaired first as there are a few holes but nothing sinister,luckily the inner sill steps are all solid. So they will just be cleaned up. Ive got some angle iron welded across the doors to keep the geometry all correct and taken measurements to be on the safe side. Varios areas are supported by blocks, axel stands etc.

So, whats the best way to go about cutting it all out, and do i have to start ripping off body panels etc to get it all out?

YG

Post by **picky** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 10:50 pm

i dont know, sorry. But now ive bumped this topic up to the top again hopefully someone who does know will come forward

Post by **chickenjohn** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 10:33 am

YG, sound like you are doing all the right things! To get at all the sill panels properly, yes you need to remove front and rear wings (they unbolt), and if you've welded a brace in (as you have), the door can come off. Also the sill cover panels (kick panels/kick plates) and rail can unbolt/ unscrew.

I would start by measuring across the door gap between fixed points (I used various door catch/ screw holes to door pillar bolt holes) draw a diagram so you know you've kept the shape.

How to remove the sill pieces depends on how rotten they are and if anyone has had a go, patching etc! On my traveller n/s sill, it was so rotten that wire brush on grinder removed the rust and most of the frilly metal remains. If its been welded up badly before and there are lots of patches, then a grinder with 1mm disk is the best way (cheap from toolstation etc) .
If the structure is untouched, then you may be able to drill out the spot welds and then chisel the pieces off. Its a good idea, if preserving the inner sill step to drill out the spot welds on the inner sill top flange where boxing panel is attached to it, then you can rremove the boxing panel (the long vertical piece with big holes pressed in it) without damaging the inner sill step.

Yes, good to get the floors solid 1st and keep the inner sill step if its sound. You may also need to cut off the bottom of the a pillars to remove those parts of the sills, but if the sills are gone these are likely to be rotten at the bottom as well.

Also, have a look at Flying's thread, he did sills there.

Good luck! and have fun!

Post by **picky** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 12:12 pm

mission accomplished

Post by **youngun** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 3:29 pm

Cheers for bumping the topic picky!

Chickenjohn, all panels and doors are off, indeed the entire car is now in boxes, labelled bags and in some cases in the loft!
The areas arent too badly rotten (ill put up a link to my photobucket album soon), so i think drilling out spotwelds will be the best option.

Let the work commence! (photos to follow)

Post by **chickenjohn** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:35 pm

Sounds good!

Post by **youngun** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:55 pm

Ive just realise something after ordering my new sills. My front spring hangers are very badly rusted. Should i replace those first?
I think i get the muppet award for this week!

Post by **chickenjohn** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:31 am

You're no muppet, don;t feel bad. This happens all the time during a resto- you find other bits that need changing as it goes along.

Yes, I think its a good idea to get the car on solid spring hangers before proceeding further. The replacement sill pieces will need to be cut to fit around the spring hangers on plate as bits are duplicated between the various panels.

If you can, butt weld rather than lap the sill floor edge panels (after cutting to size) to the spring hanger plate. Better repair than a lap weld as there is no overlap to trap moisture and encourage rust.

Post by **dunketh** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 11:05 am

I think i get the muppet award for this week!

Hey! Get yer hands away from my trophy cabinet!

Post by **youngun** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 3:50 pm

Ah well, at least ive got some nice new sill sections to look at!

Post by **chickenjohn** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 3:58 pm

They will look even nicer when you have them welded on the car and painted up. (in the finish of your choice).

Post by **youngun** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 7:07 pm

Right, front spring hangers are on their way now. Anyone got any tips for welding these in? Ive got a little guide (cant remember where from now, but the car was called Dibble for some reason!).

YG

Post by **bigginger** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 7:15 pm

That's Chicken John's

Post by **chickenjohn** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 7:21 pm

Yes http://homepages.gotadsl.co.uk/~jgm/ekm ... hanger.htm

I did the guide for Nick who has been on here asking about engine re-build. He was on the resto night school course. Nice chap, has a DS and a Moggie to restore. Hope its of some help!

Post by **youngun** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 10:42 pm

aha, yes its been very useful already actually! Thanks.

Post by **chickenjohn** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 7:39 am

If there are any mistakes, please let me know or anything missed from the guide. I have spotted a few typos and also should mention that the measurements from the rear leg mounting points to other suspension points should be checked before welding the leg permanently in place.

Post by **chickenjohn** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 10:35 am

Have corrected some typos and added a little bit.

Post by **youngun** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 5:52 pm

Yea, i could do with some pointers as to where to take measurements, ive already done between centres etc. But i really dont want to screw up the geometry of the car!