Help no brake lights.
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Help no brake lights.
Hello, brake lights have failed, all bulbs and fuses OK, I put the two wires from the switch in the brake pipe together and lights came on, so I gues I have a broken switch. My question is, can the switch be fixed or do I need a new one and if so once you remove the old switch do you have to bleed the brakes? Thanks.
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 1101
- Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2005 8:27 pm
- Location: East Sussex
- MMOC Member: No
The cling film trick has worked for me 4 out of 5 times. These switches are notorious for breaking! The only decent one I've had is a quinton hazel unit from Lenco Spares Tunbridge Wells, they will mail order, I'm sure they're available from other places. They are the same switches as Series Land Rovers.
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 1101
- Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2005 8:27 pm
- Location: East Sussex
- MMOC Member: No
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2437
- Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 7:10 pm
- Location: North Bedfordshire,
- MMOC Member: No
I wrapped some rag around it and got son of mine to gently push the pedal slowly down as I refitted the switch. the rag caught the brake fluid before it arrived on the paint!
When I rebuilt Sophie I refitted the old switch because it worked and will probably work for another 40 years rather than fitting a new one that only seem to last a few months!
When I rebuilt Sophie I refitted the old switch because it worked and will probably work for another 40 years rather than fitting a new one that only seem to last a few months!

This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
The new switch (first time) can be an absolute pig.
I had to remove the brass fitting from the car (i.e disconnect all the brake pipes) so I could put the thing in a vice to unscrew the switch.
Second time (oh yes!) was a doddle. Took about 10 minutes and I used a small plastic pipette to top up the brake switch and hole with fluid as I put the new one in.
See also the thread on bleeding brakes!
Colin
I had to remove the brass fitting from the car (i.e disconnect all the brake pipes) so I could put the thing in a vice to unscrew the switch.
Second time (oh yes!) was a doddle. Took about 10 minutes and I used a small plastic pipette to top up the brake switch and hole with fluid as I put the new one in.
See also the thread on bleeding brakes!
Colin
Thank you all for that. My new switch just arrived in the post, now think Ill be ordering a spare, Ill give Lenco spares a ring on Monday.Why are all the new parts so bad? My Partners Minor broke down, I thought it was the coil, fitted new coil from Lucas all fine for twenty miles, she had it towed to Lucas, they said duff coil put new one on all fine, machanic said they are now made in China and not as good. Now repeat this bit of the tale 4 times and 6 new coils later and coil now moved to the inner wing to lesten vibration (no, enginge and all over mounts are fine) and all is well.
Apparently coils can be a nightmare.
Do be sure that you get the one suitable for a car without a ballast resistor (otherwise you are continually running the coil at a higher voltage than it was designed for), and that the one you get is suitable for horizontal mounting (yes, I know it's lucas ... but!)
I'd suggest that when possible you use one of the major Minor suppliers rather than your local shop. At least they should know the correct part!
Good luck with the change over on the brake ligth switch.
Colin
Do be sure that you get the one suitable for a car without a ballast resistor (otherwise you are continually running the coil at a higher voltage than it was designed for), and that the one you get is suitable for horizontal mounting (yes, I know it's lucas ... but!)
I'd suggest that when possible you use one of the major Minor suppliers rather than your local shop. At least they should know the correct part!
Good luck with the change over on the brake ligth switch.
Colin
They're probably cheaper too. My local shop wants about £7 for an engine mount, ESM only want a couple of quid more for a pair, including 1st class postage!ColinP wrote:
I'd suggest that when possible you use one of the major Minor suppliers rather than your local shop. At least they should know the correct part!
Local shop also wants £26 for fuel pump points - ESM, about £9 inc VAT and P&P...