Parts required for 1275 rebuild

Post by **Matt** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 2:36 pm

It looks like I am going to be rebuilding the ital engine thats in my trav (so I would be extremely suprised if I get it done in time for website rally. Have to bring the transit instead)

Anyway...

Im going to get the block bored out (either 40 or 60 thou havent decided yet) and I have a kent 276 to go in (kit, so have the timing disk, new double valve springs and followers)

so parts I already have:

A selection of big valved or unleaded heads
New Cam
New cam followers
New valve springs
Several conversion sets
Several Head gasket sets (FAI and copper)
Lots and lots of 20/50 duckhams Q

From memory I will need to aquire:

Pistons + Rings
Main bearings (are they the same size as midget or mini ones?)
Big end bearings (same question)
Cam bearings
The cam traingle plate
New oil pump
New rear scroll seal?

Now what have I forgotton? (ignoring the ancillaries)

Post by **chrisd87** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 3:05 pm

You might want to take a look at the rocker gear as when I stripped it down on the 1098 I'm rebuilding it was horridly worn. I think this could then contribute to less than optimal oil pressure if it's not sorted out.

Might as well also put new thrust washers on while it's all stripped down as they're only a few quid, although if you're getting an exchange crank then it'll probably come with all the bearings and washers anyway (the 1098 one I got from ESM did).

Putting a new timing chain and sprockets on won't do any harm either.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 5:26 pm

The crank will almost certainly need regrinding - foolish not to really. Decent timing gear - duplex with that cam. And remember to get someone to put the new pistons on your rods for you - it's not a DIY job. Bearings are same size as Mini - but may not be same type. can't tell till you open it up. Hope you have a good budget set aside for this - looking at ~ £400 spend!

Post by **Matt** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:56 pm

remember to get someone to put the new pistons on your rods for you - it's not a DIY job

Whyever not? My dad put the pistons on the rods for our old 1098 without any issues at all! (I think the gudgeon pins were held in with circlips.

I know this isnt a cheap job but its a darn site better than paying over £900 for a pro recon!

Post by **bigginger** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:05 pm

The 1275's are different, though I can't recall quite how. Evetything I've ever read says they're not DIY. I can dig out the manual if you like.

Post by **bigginger** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:15 pm

aha - gudgeons are press fit and need a special tool, says mr haynes.
a

Post by **Matt** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:25 pm

hmm, I wonder how much somewhere would charge for that??

Post by **Packedup** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:43 pm

If you know what drift or whatever is required, then anywhere with a press should do it for £Not Much. I needed a CV pressing out of a hub, got the whole lot off, went to the local agri workshop and paid all of 2 quid (goes in their beer fund).

Can't see it being all that tricky to press in new gudgeon pins myself, but would be better using a press and right whatnots than a socket and large hammer I suppose...

Post by **bigginger** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:57 pm

BLMC 18G 1150A with adaptors 18G 1105A, it says here. That's for a Marina engine, btw.

Post by **Matt** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:27 pm

I dont suppose any of the SADMOG group or others have recommendations for a descent machine shop in and around the Southampton (or even Mid Sussex) area?

The only place I know of is in Hanwelll, W. London

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:11 pm

It is extremely difficult to press out the old pins - and then you don't care what's happening to the old knackered pistons - I have done that and even then I had to apply some heat to the small end as well as MUCH straining on a home-made version of the BMC tool. The problem is you need to support the con rod while NOT touching the piston in any way!! I would NOT like to try fitting new pistons - even the 'experts' have been known to wreck the odd piston - and they ain't cheap! One way to do it is to heat the small end of the con rod (to 'straw' colour) and have the pins in the deep freeze. I haven't done this - I have heard of it being done - and I hate to think what you do if it gets stuck half way. It really is one for experienced engine building shop - and they will want to have the whole job - boring/grinding/supplying new pistons (at full retail cost) etc etc. It's one of the reasons why buying a ready running 1275 makes so much more sense - IF you can find one - and so far - I can't!!