Taking out the old engine, hopefully will have found a replacement soon...
Question is - what parts should I order in that I might need? What commonly goes - eg mounting bits, etc etc
As usual any advice MUCH appreciated as having the stuff ready will save a lot of hassle!
thx
Barry
Replacement engine - what parts should I order in advance...
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Replacement engine - what parts should I order in advance...

Barry, Miriam, Ellie, Maia and the Morris
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I'd also buy some new nuts and bolts to replace the swines that attach the turrets to the floor.
You're going to have to leave at least one turret attached to the engine when removing it and in my experience the bolts holding these to the floor are always knackered.
Other than that you should have enough bits on your old lump to bodge any repairs needed (in my case the metal waterpipe was knackered and some hoses fell apart so I robbed them off the old lump
)
You're going to have to leave at least one turret attached to the engine when removing it and in my experience the bolts holding these to the floor are always knackered.

Other than that you should have enough bits on your old lump to bodge any repairs needed (in my case the metal waterpipe was knackered and some hoses fell apart so I robbed them off the old lump

What would Macgyver do..?


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Whilst you're at it, you may as well do the heater hoses and radiator hoses - unless they are already fairly new.
Also a good opportunity to backflush the heater and radiator.
Whilst the engine is out of the car you can inspect the bypass hose - if it's not looking completely new then it won't hurt to change it. Using a piece of solid hose tends to last longer than the corrugated ones, buit installation can be more tricky. To do it without the swearing you can remove the waterpump and slip it in place, but then you'll need a new waterpump gasket.
After installing the new engine - take a little it of time to check it out. Items like the thermostat can be a killer (if it's stuck shut). To check thermostat, start and run the engine - the top hose should stay cold for a good few miles and then get hot when thermostat opens.
Engine mounting turrets can be a pain but i've always managed to get them unbolted when using the right tools. From memory they should be 1/4 Whitworth. Some may have been changed giving a random assortment of different sizes, but the ones held captive by the tie bar rubbers are likely to be the originals.
When removing the previous engine, don't cut off the choke cable - doing this can leave it too short! (the previous owner of my SII traveller did that
) Replacement choke cables were completely useless (I tried a few and then gave up)
Same goes with the throttle cable.
If you're removing the front panel/grille to make the jpob easier, don't forget that the hockey stick studs may be corroded. If they are bad, or if you don't take enough care, you'll end up needing new hockey sticks as well.
Also a good opportunity to backflush the heater and radiator.
Whilst the engine is out of the car you can inspect the bypass hose - if it's not looking completely new then it won't hurt to change it. Using a piece of solid hose tends to last longer than the corrugated ones, buit installation can be more tricky. To do it without the swearing you can remove the waterpump and slip it in place, but then you'll need a new waterpump gasket.
After installing the new engine - take a little it of time to check it out. Items like the thermostat can be a killer (if it's stuck shut). To check thermostat, start and run the engine - the top hose should stay cold for a good few miles and then get hot when thermostat opens.
Engine mounting turrets can be a pain but i've always managed to get them unbolted when using the right tools. From memory they should be 1/4 Whitworth. Some may have been changed giving a random assortment of different sizes, but the ones held captive by the tie bar rubbers are likely to be the originals.
When removing the previous engine, don't cut off the choke cable - doing this can leave it too short! (the previous owner of my SII traveller did that

Same goes with the throttle cable.
If you're removing the front panel/grille to make the jpob easier, don't forget that the hockey stick studs may be corroded. If they are bad, or if you don't take enough care, you'll end up needing new hockey sticks as well.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
