How do you Identify an engine??

Post by **dougie700** » Thu May 10, 2007 4:10 pm

Hi All,

I have got a moris minor engine from a freind to replace my smoky one, But I have a sneakin suspicion that it is a 1000cc compaired to my 1100.

The engine number is: 9M-U-H-612566

It also has written on the block, 950 in big letters and 2A799, RMC, 21087-22

If it is a 1000 will it still fit ok and mate up with the 1098 gearbox?

Thanks in advance

Post by **Packedup** » Thu May 10, 2007 4:20 pm

If it says 950 (on a plate stuck to the back of the block?) then guess what it might be, given Minors had a 948 A series for a while..? ;)

I know the clutch is different (pressure and friction plates are both different as far as I know) between 948 and 1098, but I'm sure I've heard the boxes themselves are interchangeable. I'm guessing you have to use the 1098 flywheel and clutch assembly on the 948 to manage it though.

Post by **stevey** » Thu May 10, 2007 8:38 pm

yeh its a 948 engine. its ok to mate up with a bigger box, just not a bigger engine with a smaller box

Post by **dougie700** » Thu May 10, 2007 9:43 pm

So does that mean i need a 948 clutch? Was hopeing to try and fit it this weekend, but may have to go get a clutch if the 1098 wont work.

Post by **Packedup** » Thu May 10, 2007 10:25 pm

If you're sticking it on a 1098 box, as far as I know you need a 1098 clutch. And flywheel.

In other words, you'll need to get the flywheel off your 1098 and put it on the 948. Remember to torque it up properly, using new bolts and tab/ lock washers (of course I always do, m'lud ;) ) and maybe even a dab of threadlock.

I could of coruse be wrong, and it actually goes straight on, but I know the pressure plate is different between the two, and 99% sure the friction plate is too. I'm only about 87% sure about the flywheel needing changing to get the 1098 clutch on a 948 though.

Post by **Onne** » Thu May 10, 2007 10:37 pm

Backplate needs changing too

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri May 11, 2007 7:27 am

Yes - use the complete 1098 backplate/flywheel/clutch and the gearbox won't know the difference! If you have time - take the cam out the old 1098 engine and swap it into the 948 (it's a much better cam) and the 1098 head is far better too - but it would need skimming by 60 thou before using on the 948 - but this could be easily swapped over later.

Post by **dougie700** » Fri May 11, 2007 7:52 am

bmcecosse wrote: take the cam out the old 1098 engine and swap it into the 948 (it's a much better cam) and the 1098 head is far better too - but it would need skimming by 60 thou before using on the 948 - but this could be easily swapped over later.

If I got the head reskimmed would that mean that If I planned on refitting the 1098 that The head would be no good? What would happen if i just put the head on without reskimming?

Thanks to all for your help so far.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri May 11, 2007 10:09 am

Ahh - if you are planning on refitting the 1098 after a rebuild - then probably best not to do anything to it. Yes - it could be used again after the skimming with a nice high comp ratio which would mean using premium grade petrol - but would allow a couple more horses to pull the car along!

Post by **dougie700** » Fri May 11, 2007 9:39 pm

Ok so in theory, to put the 948 into my moggie, all i need to do is change the flywheel for the 1098 flywheel. And I can put my 1098 head on the block, which I am glad about cos looking at the 948 head one of the valves has rusted shut on no 1 chamber.

I know it would be a lot easier to just to put a 1098 engine in but trying to find one on my budget and in my area is proving to be a pain lol.

Thanks to everyone for their advice

Post by **Welung666** » Sat May 12, 2007 8:32 am

dougie700, depends where you are. There is a free 1098 going in the southampton area (see the Free section)

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat May 12, 2007 8:49 am

No - you have to change the BACKPLATE too - and the comp ratio with the 1098 head on the 948 engine will be very low. It will run, but efficiency (power and fuel consumption) will be low - unless you get it skimmed by 60 thou.

Post by **dougie700** » Sat May 12, 2007 9:58 am

Welung666 wrote:dougie700, depends where you are. There is a free 1098 going in the southampton area (see the Free section)

Darlington, near Durham lol

There is one on ebay in hull at the momment @ £40 for engine and gearbox Item number: 200107620712

does that belong to anyone on here?

think this might be a bit complecated for me lol so looks like i might and to wait or take the engine out of mine and rebuild it with it of the road

Also having a brainfart, which bit is the backplate?

Post by **Welung666** » Sat May 12, 2007 10:00 am

dougie700 wrote:Also having a brainfart, which bit is the backplate?

If you take the clutch and flywheel off it's the plate thats directly behind the flywheel.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat May 12, 2007 4:08 pm

On the back of the engine ! Dead easy to remove and swap over.

Post by **dougie700** » Sun May 13, 2007 6:59 am

Thanks guys, gonna be a pain for a short term engine, so am gonna try and rebuild the 1098, on inspection there are burn marks on No 3 piston crown and i suspect that the valve oil seals to be the culprit as the chamber gets full of oil and does not fire.

There is no real play on the pistons so I hope it is not the rings, as there is the same play on all of them. Also found that the valves had no circlips on them so i dont know how the stayed together all this time lol

Thanks again

Dougie

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun May 13, 2007 11:18 am

Circlips - I expect you mean 'hairpin' clips - which are throw away item, not needed. It's VERY unlikely to be valve stem seal problem, and VERY likely to be broken/stuck rings in that #3 - you need to pull it out for inspection.

Post by **dougie700** » Sun May 13, 2007 3:20 pm

Arrgghhh, I was hoping to get away with a top end rebuild til you posted that lol

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun May 13, 2007 4:14 pm

Sorry - but the reality is that would be a waste of money. Just pull #3 piston out - don't need to take the engine out - to check the state of the rings and piston lands. Depending on what you find you can decide what to do next. If that piston is knackered - maybe someone on here has a decent one you can fit in it's place and so get you back on the road for minimal cost/work.

Post by **dougie700** » Sun May 13, 2007 6:25 pm

I was hoping to do the rebuild over the winter lol

looks like that is not going to happen

gonna have to do it sooner than later lol