I need to lift brendas engine out to repair her mounts as someone tried to tow her and has torn the plates under the engine mounts, i dont have a crane. what are my options?
Im thinking about buyin a block and tackle, with it attached to a roof beam in my garage and liftting it clear of the mounts with the front pannel removed. rolling the car back and hey presto!
Is this cunnig plan plausable?
any advice would be greatly recieved.
Regards
Nigel
[img]http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s192/nslocomotives/brendasmall.jpg[/img]
Meet Brenda, she was due on the road in the spring, now maybee next spring.... 2008???
More photos:-
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s192/nslocomotives/
do it teh way me and my boy did take teh front panle off then get two people one either side (you go carb side ) then lift a little then walk it foward it sounds easy but you need to be strong but the engines ant that heavy (spelt wrong i recon) you lift then place down on somthing solid then move a little more .what i did was use a trolly jack place under the engine once all mounting are free then raze it up so the car comes up as well untill the car stops rizing (make shore you have a good lump of wood under the engine )
Use a good strong metal pole suspended by two roof beams. If you can find a metal sleve to fit around this pole when the engine is lifted you will have the added advantage of being able to move the engine fore and aft without moving the car.
Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.
2 people can easily lift a Minor engine out, especially if the front panel is off. Do you really need to take it out, as you could just remove the mounting to repair that area.
i have removed and replaced the engine several times using the method you describe nslocomotive, without any problems. make sure everything is disconnected first though! easy to miss something still connecting the engine to the car.
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
I have removed the bare engine myself - cylinder head removed. Front panel and rad removed. Trolley jack under - remove the towers and the mounts - support the gearbox from below - slide engine forward on trolley till it meets the front crossmember - heave ho onto the cross member - then heave ho again up onto the bench. However - I have since equipped myself with a ratchet hoist from Canadian Tire (1000kg pull - cost £3:50 (7$ Can) in a sale!! This is hung from my daughter's old swing frame which has had the top cross pole replaced with a longer and thicker pole - and with this arrangement I have changed a Mini engine and it will be used for Minor engine in the near future (are you reading this Barry?). Beauty of it is it comes to bits really easily and is portable !! Similar hoists are available in UK - but rather more expensive (~ £12) than my Canadian Tire bargain !
If you want to create a bit more head room you can always release the bonnet by removing the locating pin and split pin from the bonnet support strut and gently resting the bonnet on a piece of carpet or similar on the roof.
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
If you have 2 very strong people available it's not much of a problem.
Once the radiator and front panel are removed it becomes much easier.
I have fitted and removed engines on my own just using a couple of jacks underneath (one for gearbox and one for engine).
First thing to know is that you can unbolt one of the front mounting towers from the engine bay floor - this allows removing the engine mounts without any hassle.
Use a piece of wood to protect the sump from the jack! The more stuff you remove from the engine (e.g. manifolds, dynamo etc..) the lighter it gets.
Pull the engine forward and it comes free of the gearbox, then jack it up a couple of inches and it will slide onto the front crossmember.
The front crossmember has a brake pipe and the wiring loom on it, so when sliding the engine forward it's best to use another piece of wood on it to protect everything.
The easiest thing I found to do was to make a stack of spare wheels in front of the car at the same height as the crossmember - then slide the engine off the crossmember onto the stack of wheels - bingo! no engine in the car.
With 2 people this is pretty easy. With one strong / foolhardy person it can be done.
Refitting is a reversal of the same procedure - but a bit more fiddly as it always takes a couple of minutes to get the gearbox shaft engaged into the clutch.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Why remove it just to repair the mounts?
Can't you just jack it up?
Undo the mounts, black of wood under the sump and jack him up a bit?
Might even get away without undoing the box depending on how little space you can actually work in.
When my pal used this method he bought two long foot fence posts to support the garage cross beam. He had them angled towards the middle - one each side of the car.
Iddy
First things first, but not necessarily in that order.
I use a normal scaffold pole mounted across my garage walls with a block and tackle. The same set-up handled the very heavy MGB engine
too so will be up to the job. Just remove one engine mounting tower and the replacements become easy!
[img]http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/chrisd87/DSC00749.jpg[/img][img]http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/chrisd87/med_gallery_128_45_1416415.jpg[/img]
Sarah - 1970 Minor 1000 2-dr
Maggie - 1969 Minor 1000 4-dr
When we redid our moggie, one of the best things we found to help was the grandsons skateboard. Put the engine or engine/gearbox on it to move it around. When replacing engine/box, put the skateboard under the engine bay to take the rear of the box. Saves scraping it on the floor and dont need anybody to hold it up.
Read this one with interest, as was wondering if it all had to come out by bolting the bar onto the top, or if I could take the head off and remove it in bits!...