1275 upgrade
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1275 upgrade
1275 mg midget engine
I have fitted a 1275 midget engine with a 3 branch exhaust manifold mg metro inlet manifold and hs4 su carb goes well untill I hit traffic and engine temp goes over 90 then missfires and appears to suffer from petrol stavation and breaks down completely untill temp drops below 90 .
Can anyone suggest a cause as this is a real problem.
Have replaced coil, plugs,leads,points, condenser,distributor cap, what alse can I do ??.
I have fitted a 1275 midget engine with a 3 branch exhaust manifold mg metro inlet manifold and hs4 su carb goes well untill I hit traffic and engine temp goes over 90 then missfires and appears to suffer from petrol stavation and breaks down completely untill temp drops below 90 .
Can anyone suggest a cause as this is a real problem.
Have replaced coil, plugs,leads,points, condenser,distributor cap, what alse can I do ??.
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- Minor Addict
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I used to have this problem with an MGB, it had been fitted with (I think) 1 3/4" SUs, instead of the 1 1/2" as standard. The "restorer" had then omitted the heat shield as it wouldn't fit. I was advised by a local specialist that it was fuel vapourisation caused by the overheating.
It had a fast road cam and lightened flywheel, and was uprated to 2 litres from the original 1.8l. Great on the open road but a complete pain in the whatsit round town! Thirsty as hell too! 20 mpg round town.
It had a fast road cam and lightened flywheel, and was uprated to 2 litres from the original 1.8l. Great on the open road but a complete pain in the whatsit round town! Thirsty as hell too! 20 mpg round town.
It's not got a waxstat HS4 has it? If so, first port of call is to spend 2 pence binning the wax pellet.
How hot is the temp gauge reading when it starts to play up? And can you be sure the gauge is reasonably accurate?
I can't see that underbonnet temps should be high enough to cause heat related problems at the moment, but it's possible I suppose. I'd start with a quick check for a spark when it cuts out, and then move to the fuel system. Though I really would bin the wax bit first if it's got one.
How hot is the temp gauge reading when it starts to play up? And can you be sure the gauge is reasonably accurate?
I can't see that underbonnet temps should be high enough to cause heat related problems at the moment, but it's possible I suppose. I'd start with a quick check for a spark when it cuts out, and then move to the fuel system. Though I really would bin the wax bit first if it's got one.
I don't know if it's got a waxstat or not where would it be and how do you remove it??Packedup wrote:It's not got a waxstat HS4 has it? If so, first port of call is to spend 2 pence binning the wax pellet.
How hot is the temp gauge reading when it starts to play up? And can you be sure the gauge is reasonably accurate?
I can't see that underbonnet temps should be high enough to cause heat related problems at the moment, but it's possible I suppose. I'd start with a quick check for a spark when it cuts out, and then move to the fuel system. Though I really would bin the wax bit first if it's got one.
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- Minor Legend
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- Location: North Bedfordshire,
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I did have a link to a write up for how to mod the jet to remove the wax stat thing. Unfortunately it doesn't go any where now. I may have printed it. Basically you take it apart and replace the wax stat with two 1p pieces.
Have a look at
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/spitfire/images/42a.gif
to identify the jet we are talking about.
Have a look at
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/spitfire/images/42a.gif
to identify the jet we are talking about.

This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
Radiator should be fine for the job - it's whole lot bigger than a Mini rad! You could try a 4 blade fan (actually two x 2 blade fans bolted together) - or even a Spridget 6 blade fan. But it is the dreaded 'vapourisation' of petrol in the rising pipe to the high mounted fuel pump. I used to think this never happened - but have had to change my opinion after several peeps on here have reported the problem. One answer is to abandon the electric pump - and use a mechanical pump (as on the Mini) driven by the camshaft lobe. Obviously only possible if your block has a little blanking plate where the pump would go on a Mini. Does it ?



Thanks for all your suggestions but I think I've solved the problem the garage that fitted the engine changed the metal fan for a plastic one and put it on so that the air is being blown from inside the engine compartment out through the radiator also Ithink muli-bladed fans require a shroud to work properly so it's back to the original metal fan