Hot Start Problem

Post by **nicholashall** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:29 pm

After driving 25 miles or so in my 1098 Minor and stopping the engine I couldn't restart the car. Coming back and trying again 20 minutes later there was no problem, she started first time. This has happened a few times.

Not being very experienced at solving these kind of problems, I'm hoping someone can offer some advice on this one. I was wondering whether it might be fuel vaporiation, though these problems have always occured on cool days.

Any help would be much appreciated,

Nick

Post by **bigginger** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:36 pm

All I can say is that it's incredibly unlikely to be vapourisation, usually only on VERY hot days and noticeable while the car is running. Hope somebody can be of more help.

Post by **Welung666** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:38 pm

Does it turn over ok when it's hot or does it seem like the battery is flat? If when it's hot it seems like the battery is flat it could be a head gasket problem... My Cavalier does it as I have a slight leak from a waterway into a cylinder and it causes the engine to hydraulic, if I let it cool it starts up fine. I find if I hold the clutch down and hold half throttle it starts fine.

Post by **nicholashall** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:44 pm

The battery seems to operate completely normally - plenty of charge allowing me to drive myself mad turning the engine over and over without a hint of a result...

Nick

Post by **Packedup** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:49 pm

Valve clearances?

Or simply coil/ condensor not coping with warming up any more..

Post by **Welung666** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:53 pm

If it's turning over as normal and just not firing then it sounds like a service issue. When was the last service? Check plug gaps, points gaps and that there is a spark at both, if they are both ok then it could be an overheating problem. Stuck thermostat for example or at worst a warped or gunged up head. more likely sonething simple though,

Post by **flying** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 12:25 am

my mate kept having this problem on his mini and he found out it was the coil that was causing the problem once it got warm

Post by **Willie** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:29 am

Yes, check the points gap, it can be so small that the speed of the engine when the starter is turning is not enough to allow a spark but ok when the engine is turning faster. The fact that it only happens when the engine is hot obviously means that heat expansion,or heat breakdown
(coil/ condensor) is to blame. If it was petrol vapourization the pump would be ticking like mad.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 11:05 am

Next time it does this - listen to hear if the fuel pump is ticking away furiously - or ominously silent! If silent - give it a bang with a blunt instrument to see if it springs into life. If it's ticking - then yes it's 'air locked' due to hot fuel in the feed pipe, and so you could then try moving the fuel pipe further away from the exhaust pipe. If it works with the bang - it's needing the points inside the top cap cleaned.

Post by **chrisd87** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:47 pm

Perhaps this is due to one of those dodgy rotor arms?

Post by **nicholashall** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 11:52 pm

Many thanks everyone for your suggestions.
I'm off to try and cure Daisy our Morris of this problem next week - she's currently residing in deepest France. Here's hoping I can sort the problem as she's to be repatriated next month - a faintly daunting 300+ mile trip..
Nick

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 7:25 am

With stops every 25 miles at 'L'aire du temps' - it's going to be a lengthy trip!

Post by **pskipper** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:43 am

It's worth checking the float and float needle as this sounds like what has been happening with Rosie.

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 4:46 pm

If it is the coil you will find its getting really hot to the touch.

Post by **Bullmansboy** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:37 pm

If none of above, are you having to top up the rad?? If yes Head Gasket

Post by **nicholashall** » Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:36 pm

Following up my original plea for help regarding my hot start problem, I'm now in France with the car and going through some of the suggestions so kindly posted here. Now wondering if I might get some further guidance as I go - I'm sure any comments and suggestions will also be appreciated by other less than experience people grappling with this kind of problem.

The car has only covered 3.5k miles since a major overhaul 2.5yrs ago when it had new plugs, points, coil fitted and the carb checked over.

So far I've checked the plugs - gap of 0.025 was correct and there were only faint brown deposits on them indicating, I think they are okay. One of the plugs does have white deposites on the bare metal part above the thread - is this okay?

Checking the contacts I discovered the gap was more like 0.018 than the 0.015 recommended in Haynes, so I adjusted that. Could this be the cause of the hot start problem I wonder?

Another question: I'm running with Unleaded petrol using an unmodified head, but use a lead assitive. Could this be anything to do with my problem? Too much/little additive? A bad idea going for this way of running?

Also, I attempted to remove the rotor arm to lubricate the spindle as Haynes suggests, but have been unable to get it off. How much force should you use? Any recommended method to remove it?!

All suggestions gratefully received as ever,
Nick

Post by **NZJLY** » Fri Apr 06, 2007 10:17 pm

Some cars don't like too much throttle when starting, Olive (my 57) will start if you turn the key, and pull the starter. Give it too much gas, and she doesn't like it. Try starting a few different ways, as it may just be the personality of your car

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Apr 07, 2007 8:40 am

Points gap was and is fine - it's not critical. Hot start fail would generally be done to a flooding problem. If you switch on the ignition and don't stat the car - does the fuel pump tick regularly, or just a couple of ticks then silence ? If it keeps on ticking it probably means the fuel level in the float chamber of the carb is too high and is flooding over the jet. This usually means a new float valve is needed. Other checks - is there some oil in the carb dashpot (unscrew black knurled knob on top and pull out the little piston to check) - add some thin oil if necessary. Final thought - when hot start problem arises put foot flat to the floorboards on the throttle and crank it. If there is excess petrol that should clear it!

Post by **nicholashall** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 8:29 am

Certainly will try starting her in a few different ways if & when the hot start problem happens again - hadn't thought of flooring the throttle, I'd assumed this would flood her.
Meanwhile I've discoverer an orange light on the dashboard is coming on - not the oil light. Investigating the forum I realise this is a blocked oil filter light. Could this be anything to do with the problem? Anyway a new filter is on its way to me - this & the oil need changing by the look of it.
I don't think I've got a flooding problem - no evidence of fuel escaping or any smell. Anyway I'm going to have a look at the float chambre as suggested.
Oil in the dashpot - there is some but I feel it perhaps needs more. What is the correct level? And do I need a special oil? I've read suggestions for using SAE20 - can I use this grade of engine oil or must it be something else?
Nick

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 7:50 pm

" float chambre " - indeed in France !! The oil filter has nowt to do with the starting problem, but yes - change it asap - and use 20W50 oil. You can use this in the dashpot too - but I prefer thinner 3 in 1 type oil. Check your air filter too - if the oil etc are needing changed I expect the air filter will also be past it's best.