Welding
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Try here - http://www.daytonamig.com/faq.htm Mig is the kind of welding you generally see being done these days. The wire is fed into the weld pool automatically. TIG involves feeding in a filler rod by hand. Great for pretty welds and welding aluminium and other metals too, but the kit is much more expensive to buy, and it's harder to learn to do well unless you can already gas weld.
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Easily done if you are using a poor quality mask. When I learnt at Brooklands College I was using expensive professional equipment and it was pure joy to watch the weld being 'pushed' along in a straight line.oh i get it, i must have used a mig at college! found it quite hard, put it where i wanted and by the time i had pulled the mask down i have welded something else!!!

Chris
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1969 2-Door daily driver
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1969 2-Door daily driver
...AND TIG is easy upside down on rusty steel? ....NOTT!bmcecosse wrote:I find MIG very difficult to use - easy enough downhand on good fresh steel - not so easy upside down under the car on rusty steel!! TIG is easy to control - and you feed in the filler wire as and when needed as opposed to the MIG which relentlessly pushes in more wire whether it's needed or not!
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I agree with those who say to use a reactive helmet. They are under £100 these days for a good one and makes welding so much easier. You can actually see what you are doing before starting welding, getting the right angle, distance and aiming the torch where you want to run the bead.
So buy a reactive helmet and get lots of practice on scrap pieces of clean 1mm steel. Once you've got the hang of Mig welding it seems a lot easier. Make sure your welder is set up properly as well.
So buy a reactive helmet and get lots of practice on scrap pieces of clean 1mm steel. Once you've got the hang of Mig welding it seems a lot easier. Make sure your welder is set up properly as well.
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A reactive helmet should solve that problem.


Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
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