Sill finishers

[LouiseM]

I'm thinking of getting some stainless steel sill finishers.

Just wondered whether someone can advise me of how to fit them. Is it difficult?

Thanks,

Lou

[Onne]

That really depends on when the bolts were last undone.

It took me about 15 minutes each side on my new '54 car.

I would buy some new bolts if I were you, and grease them when refitting.

It is also the perfect opportunity to check the state of your sills

Onne

[paulk]

You will probaly end up Angle grinding some of the old bolts off but as Onne suggests I'd replace all the bolts anyway.

Even though you are fitting a Stainless sill finisher I would not bother buying Stainless steel bolts to go with it as they tend to 'cold weld' together. Just as previous suggestion grease up normal ones really well.

[hubcap]

Look underneath the sill and you'll see that the finisher is a kind of U-sction. the bots are undone by placing spanner into the U and another inside the ridge. IF the bolts can be loosened then that's all you need to do, don't remove them - the finisher has slots and "just" slips over the bolts. As Onne says, 15 mins per side on a good day, but a lot longer on rusted bolts.

[Onne]

I do ahve to say that only three undid, the rest snapped off

[Chris Morley]

I do have to say that only three undid, the rest snapped off

That's normal. Even after a year or two new ones can be a pig to unbolt. It doesn't help that the nuts are so small. Professionals often grind them off.

[Willie]

You can avoid all these problems if you coat the nuts and bolts with Waxoyl prior to assembly

[Gareth]

If the car's a four-door, I think you have to remove the nuts completely, as the B-post stops the finisher rail from sliding up over the nuts.

[LouiseM]

It's a two door.

Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll try loosening the nuts first before buying the finishers

Lou