Timing Chain and Leaking Axle

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Relfy
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Timing Chain and Leaking Axle

Post by Relfy »

My timing chain sounds like its about to leap out of the casing and has been for a little while now.

My axle is also now pouring so much oil out of both ends but mostly one, that its worrying me.

These are therefore the next two jobs I'm going to do provided I can get an alternative transport to work (Motorbike or teletransporting seem the obvious choices as the route isn't long as such - its just a bit packed. 1.5 hrs to cover 7 miles, twice a day is just ridiculous).

Can anyone give me some clues and toptips to get me going with these jobs please?
Eleanor
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Kevin
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Post by Kevin »

My axle is also now pouring so much oil out of both ends but mostly one, that its worrying me.
Hi El I assume you have checked that its oil and not brake fluid, and remember you will need a bit of room if you are going to take the halfshafts out as it almost doubles the width of the car on removal unless you do one side at a time.
Cheers

Kevin
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wanderinstar
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Post by wanderinstar »

Well I have just changed my timing chain last week after months of rattling.
I got hold of a pair of Mini gears [lighter] a Mini tensioner and the Mini timing cover. Needed to fit tensioner.
Fitting was straightforward. Remove front panel and radiator. I put car on ramps to save my back.
Any problems just ask.
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Post by RogerRust »

The rear axle seals is an easy job.
You'll need a hub puller of some sort and dont forget the left hand side is a left hand thread.
HarryMango, my favourite spanner supplier sorted me a 1 1/8 whitworth spanner for the hub nut. It is an open ended one so I just popped one of the wheel studs out and the job was easy. it's about 48mm A/F.
You can get wheel bearing and seal kits from ESM you have to knock the bearing out to get to the seal so it's seems like false economy not to change it at the same time.
HINT make sure you are parked far enough from the wall to get the half shaft out. A friend of mine had to put it all back together to move the car 2 inches over ( the half shafts are 680 mm long).
You will need a new set of brake shoes if they are covered with oil.
Both side should take less than an afternoon.
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Post by Relfy »

Thanks folks - that should get me started. Kevin: I know its not the brakes leaking cos, the stuff smells like axle oil and there is so much of it it is obvious where its coming from, plus my brakes have been fine since I changed no less than 4 wheel cylinders over the summer - they all went one after the other! Laugh? Of course I did. :P
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Relfy
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Post by Relfy »

About Hub pullers - is there a standard thing you can buy? Or what do people use in general?
Eleanor
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RogerRust
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Post by RogerRust »

I have a small two jaw puller and use it for everything. It never quite fits properly, but its never failed to do the job.

By the way on the back hub there isn't anything to work agaist because the axle is hollow so I wedged a suitable sized socket in the hole and got some purchase against that - if you see what I mean?
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Post by RogerRust »

A picture speaks a 1000 words!!

Image

Hope that explains it. :roll:
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Post by Roni »

I have another suggestion for a method that worked for me some years ago. After taking off the centre nut and lock tab, re-attach the half shaft with the axle pointing outwards. Use a wheel nuts for this, no need for them to be really tight. This gives a great handle to wriggle the hub off the axle. I dont know if this is an approved method but it worked for me.

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Post by millerman »

Didn't this used to be the standard method in the "trade" and yes it does work and it's simple!!
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Post by Relfy »

I'll give it a go! Just need an evening of daylight and no rain.... wishing for the world to stop for a bit. Well if Joshua can do it, so can I. ;)
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Relfy
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Post by Relfy »

I was finally better enough this weekend to get going with my timing chain although still no voice. Unfortunately I got to the bit where Hayne's says simply to 'remove the woodruff key from the crank with a pair of pliers' before taking off the crank sprocket. Well I couldnt get the woodruff key to budge and then made a BIG mistake in that I asked an old guy 'Bill' who has a boat a couple down from me and was walking past if he knew anything about them, at which point he leaped in with a hammer and screwdriver (against my strong protests!), wrecked the key (I mean I wont be able to use it again), drove a burr into the crank nose and the thing is even more stuck and unbudgable. I had to forcably remove my tools out of his hands, which started a whole new furore... :( anyway he apologised the next day, was drinking etc etc., peace reigns, but car now feeling sorry for itself.
I've filed the key down hoping maybe I can get the sprocket off over it (no more daylight and such a sore throat..).. but would just like to know some things:
  • How do you normally get the woodruff key out?
    Do you actually need to or would the sprockett slide over it?
    Is there really two or just one long one? I heard in the case of Landrovers Haynes was never updated when it changed....
    Can you get new woodruff keys or am I going to have to do something nifty?
Eleanor
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Post by rayofleamington »

How do you normally get the woodruff key out?
Do you actually need to or would the sprockett slide over it?
Normally remove them by bashing the blade of a small electrical srewdriver under the 'nose' end - certainly no tools on the sides as this will make things worse.

As for 'does the sprocket fit over the key - if you can't see the end of the ke because it dissapears under the sprocket, then probably yes. If the key ends before the sprocket, then probably no.
Probably you can test it with the new sprocket to determine whether it the existing fit over the key anyway.

Yes - you can get new keys, but unless it is very damaged, you may be able to save the old one with some decent files (the key should be quite hard). You may also need to fettle the key slot if someone has butchered it with hammer and blunt instrument :(
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rear axle leak

Post by Willie »

Nobody seems to have mentioned it but it is suspicious that you are losing
oil through both rear hubs. Have you checked the axle breather which is
located next to the diff housing on the top? It is a pull off plastic piece which
can be easily cleaned. Have you also checked the oil level in the axle?
Indeed, does it have a filler plug and a drain plug? It is possible with some
mods to finish up with one or the other missing! I once,and only once, found
an axle which had been filled up through the plastic breather hole right up to
the top!!.
Willie
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Relfy
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Post by Relfy »

Ok Thanks. It had a filler plug and drain plug when i filled it up last time, but I wasn't sure at the time if they weren't actually leaking too... I don't remember anything plastic, but I'll check. That's the next job after the timing chain, although as the car is not moving at the moment it doesn't really need an axle... :D
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Post by bmcecosse »

The timing chain sprockets just pull off over the keys - absolutely no need to touch them. Two tyre levers and gentle wiggling gets them off. The larger (camshaft) sprocket is very fragile at the edges - especially if it is the older type with the rubber ring - so be carefull! And of course - you need to put them back on correctly timed !
I prescribe Lagavulin for the sore throat.
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Relfy
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Post by Relfy »

Lagavulin? Whats that? Staying in bed the entirety of yesterday definitely helped a lot. I have a voice again now, even if it is a husky one. :D
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Post by pskipper »

It's whisky from Islay, hmmmm, where they almost have more distilleries than villages.
Philip, Lynda and the cars.

Relfy
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Post by Relfy »

Ooh yes - I do remember 5 whisky-macs on the Isle of Arran doing the trick that time... by morning I was cured! ;)
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Post by bmcecosse »

What the &^*%'s a 'whisky mac ' ??? Malt whisky should be taken neat - especially for 'sore throat' !!
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