Seized Eyebolt

Post by **Cam** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 1:24 pm

I personally would try heating it up with a blowlamp and belting it out, if that does not work then cut the outer part off and try knocking it inwards towards the centre of the car with a suitable drift. Obviously then you would need a new eyebolt but they are only about £10 anyway and you would probably be getting a new one anyway. But don't start cutting at the chassis leg as that could be the start of a much bigger problem!

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 2:26 pm

Quite often stuck parts can be freed by rotating them.
try using a very long bar through the torsion bar hole.
If that doesn't work, them a big hammer on the threaded end (or both at the same time but it will take 2 people).
One of mine took a few sledge hammer blows on the threaded end.

Chassis - leg if you chop it, you'll need to replace at least half the chassis leg which is a lot of work. Try and avoid this if at all possible.

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 2:50 pm

You should use Plus Gas as a releasing agent WD40 is not really suitable, also before hitting the threaded end leave the nut partially on to give a bigger area to hit.

through the torsion bar hole

Sorry Ray what torsion bar hole.

Post by **Cam** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 2:55 pm

I think he is referring to the eye of the eyebolt.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 2:56 pm

Sorry Ray what torsion bar hole.

the hole running in line with the torsion bar... (at least I knew what I meant

)

Post by **Cam** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 3:13 pm

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 3:56 pm

Cam is that really possible is there enough clearance with the arms knocked back (and marked obviously)

Post by **Cam** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 4:45 pm

If you remove the adjusting assembly (next to the crossmember) then the torsion bar can slide out a fair way through the crossmember. Then if you undo the front leg, the rear leg can be pulled out and the bushes removed.

I did this first to upgrade my torsion bars to 100% uprated ones, then again to fit poly bushes, then AGAIN to fit the correct type of poly bushes!

(and fit new eyebolts and pivot pins while I was at it)

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 4:49 pm

You are right of course Cam with the C washer out of the way I had forgot that thanks.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 5:37 pm

the eye of the eyebolt.

That's what I originally wrote, but then wondered if it would cause confusion..

andyb1, as you seem to still have the eyebolt pivot pin (and torsion bar) still in place, have you been able to check the condition of the eyebolt?
If the rubbers are completely worn through, then the pivot pin may have worn into the eyebolt. In this case it is probably worth renewing the eyebolt (although the cheapskate way is to turn the eyebolt upside down)
If it's not got an egg shaped hole, then maybe you can avoid the hassle of removing / replacing it anyway?....
If you re-use the eyebolt, then also check that it had not corroded up undersize. If it has, then the rubbers will be too tight and end up overstressed and fail quickly. The hole in the eyebolt can be cleaned up with a big round file until the corrosion and debris are removed, but try to make sure it is all square.

The 'C' washer referred to can be a bit tricky unless you've done it before. Basically when you remove the rear arm (unbolt from crossmenber, then tap it off its spline on the torsion bar), the torsion bar will look like it is too big to go through the hole in the crossmember. You should find a C shaped washer on the end of the torsion bar. If you free the washer up it will come of sideways allowing the bar through the crossmember. You sometimes have to push the torsion bar forwards to get enough room to remove the C washer
The torsion bar may not want to move backwards as the front pivot pin is usually unwilling to come through the eyebolt rubbers - if you use the front arm to rotate the assembly whilst pushing, ift will work its way free.

Post by **57traveller** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 5:48 pm

Just a word of caution if you have to resort to cutting bits off the eyebolt to drive it out - you've past the point of no return and it then HAS to come out by whatever means necessary.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Oct 08, 2003 10:37 pm

I have resigned myself to having to replace at least the section of the chassis rail by the eyebolt

If the chassis leg has corroded nearby the eyebolt, it is generally a good idea to replace it - External pateches are unlikely to reapair the strength, as the inner reinforcement is probably not in a good state - patched up chassis legs have a tendency for the eyebolt to pull out.

Good luck with the leg - half legs can save a lot of work, (although you will have a join half way)

Post by **Kevin** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 9:15 am

Andy how near to the eyebolt was the repair panel you mentioned and is it going to cause any problems with the new eyebolt as the old one was affected by the welding.

Post by **Kevin** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 10:34 am

Right so we are talking about a `U` section repair just in the area of the eyebolt then how long is it, and I wonder if its covering something up or is it a let in section, I wonder who on earth would have welded an eyebolt in place, certainly not a forward thinking individual, hope all goes well as I cant weld at all.

Post by **57traveller** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 10:41 am

Well done, that was a bit of good thinking using the existing nut and threaded portion of the eyebolt as an extracting method.
Good luck with the rest of the job.