Advice on strengthening saloon prior to converting...
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Advice on strengthening saloon prior to converting...
Hello everyone!
I am looking at the daunting task of converting a 2 door Minor saloon in to a convertible.
I have seen that there are kits available with instructions, but my paranoia has got the better of me and I just wondered if any other member had done this before and knew about the strenthening welding required prior to cutting the roof off?
If anyone could help I would be eternally greatful.
Kind regards,
Richard.
I am looking at the daunting task of converting a 2 door Minor saloon in to a convertible.
I have seen that there are kits available with instructions, but my paranoia has got the better of me and I just wondered if any other member had done this before and knew about the strenthening welding required prior to cutting the roof off?
If anyone could help I would be eternally greatful.
Kind regards,
Richard.
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I've never done the job ........nearly did once.
That said, general advice has to be do all the repairs to your shell so that the structure is A1 ie as good as the day it left the factory before you think about removing the roof.
Check that the kit you buy is complete - has all the essential extra triangulation plates which were added to the tourer shell. The kit I nearly bought included them all.
I did cut the roof off my Elan so the other piece of advice I offer is measure everything at least three times before you cut anything
If originality is not your number one priority it would be very easy to add further triangulation plates and perhaps more material into the sill structure
If you are a competent welder and methodical it shouldn't be too daunting
That said, general advice has to be do all the repairs to your shell so that the structure is A1 ie as good as the day it left the factory before you think about removing the roof.
Check that the kit you buy is complete - has all the essential extra triangulation plates which were added to the tourer shell. The kit I nearly bought included them all.
I did cut the roof off my Elan so the other piece of advice I offer is measure everything at least three times before you cut anything

If originality is not your number one priority it would be very easy to add further triangulation plates and perhaps more material into the sill structure
If you are a competent welder and methodical it shouldn't be too daunting

John
1969 S4 Lotus Elan
1955 SII Traveller
Opinions expressed are of course, my own :)
1969 S4 Lotus Elan
1955 SII Traveller
Opinions expressed are of course, my own :)
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It was only "nearly" bought -the chap decided not to have it done.
If I recall correctly the kit I looked at may have been from Canterbury Covertibles - but it was a decade ago so I may be wrong!
The important thing is to ensure the kit has all the extra bits. If I recall there are triangulation plates off the A and B posts, but as I say, it was a long time ago
Someone on this excellent forum will tell you exactly where they go
If I recall correctly the kit I looked at may have been from Canterbury Covertibles - but it was a decade ago so I may be wrong!
The important thing is to ensure the kit has all the extra bits. If I recall there are triangulation plates off the A and B posts, but as I say, it was a long time ago

Someone on this excellent forum will tell you exactly where they go

John
1969 S4 Lotus Elan
1955 SII Traveller
Opinions expressed are of course, my own :)
1969 S4 Lotus Elan
1955 SII Traveller
Opinions expressed are of course, my own :)
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convertible
The triangulation areas are: the lower right and left corners of the dashboard,and the lower sections of the B pillars. The original sill sections
contained an extra U section beam but the conversions use an extra pressing which fits over the inner doorstep inside the car. This seems to provide ample rigidity especially if you plug weld it through to the original door step
on the vertical faces in several places. This forms a very rigid beam. When I
rebuilt my very rusty original convertible I used this method as the original
U beam had rusted away and it has proved to be well up to the job.
contained an extra U section beam but the conversions use an extra pressing which fits over the inner doorstep inside the car. This seems to provide ample rigidity especially if you plug weld it through to the original door step
on the vertical faces in several places. This forms a very rigid beam. When I
rebuilt my very rusty original convertible I used this method as the original
U beam had rusted away and it has proved to be well up to the job.
Willie
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Sorry but they only deal in convertibles not convert them.If I recall correctly the kit I looked at may have been from Canterbury Covertibles - but it was a decade ago so I may be wrong!
Thay used to be available from the old MM company that now longer trades but the kits were taken over by Mid Sussex
http://www.midsussexminors.co.uk/conversion.htm
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
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Well I did say it was a long time ago ...........lots of water, lots of bridgesKevin wrote: Sorry but they only deal in convertibles not convert them.
Thay used to be available from the old MM company that now longer trades

John
1969 S4 Lotus Elan
1955 SII Traveller
Opinions expressed are of course, my own :)
1969 S4 Lotus Elan
1955 SII Traveller
Opinions expressed are of course, my own :)
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doing that job at the moment it is a easy job took about a weekend to put all the streanging parts in and more was added to ease my mind it took about 1/2 to get the roof off , the hardest part you will find is getting the top of the window screen right to mach the convertible stile but can be done . need to rip up the rear seat then look at the chassie to make sure its all solid.if not there will be movement . all teh inner sils have to be solid (i cut hole in the front inner wing to fit 8mm thick angle iron inside the box section) . it will look good if you do it right
any problems gives me a nuge ill see if i can help ya out
any problems gives me a nuge ill see if i can help ya out
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The latest kit from mid sussex has overcome this problem, as quoted on their website.the hardest part you will find is getting the top of the window screen right to mach the convertible style but can be done .
A pressed steel panel is now available for the windscreen top. This is the only kit that includes this panel allowing quick and accurate formation of the windscreen top.
Carrying out the conversion is now much easier and quicker. You simply remove the old roof by drilling out the spot-welds along the top of the windscreen aperture, Then weld in the new panel.
There is no need to mess around cutting and re-shaping the old roof, as before. The new panel is identical to the original factory pressing and includes the captive bolts for the hood frame locating pins. Fitting this panel will save you at least a day's work and alleviates the need for any filler.
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
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