948 engine into 1098 box

[Onne]

What would I need?

I have 1098 gearbox
1098 clutch assembly
1098 flywheel
1098 backplate

948 backplate
948 flywheel

What are the thoughts of people with common sense about replacing the oil pump, while I'm there?

Onne

[bmcecosse]

I would at least have a really good look at the oil pump - any time I have not fitted a new one - I have regretted it later. Trouble is it's the pin drive - it used to be possible to get hold of a Cooper S pump - and swop the shafts over, so getting a larger capacity pump still with pin drive. But if your engine is going to stay more or less standard there is no reason why a standard pump in good condition won't do the job. I would however urge you to consider fitting the 1098 camshaft into your engine - it's very much better than the 948 item. Later on you could get the 1098 head skimmed down slightly - and then use that too.
Just use all the 1098 clutch/flywheel and backplate on the 948 engine and it will be fine on the 1098 gearbox.

[Onne]

I will consider the 1098 crankshaft, but I may run it as standard to start with. I think I will get a new oil pump.

Are those hard to replace?

Onne

[bigginger]

Not if they're like the 1098 ones, which I imagine they are - there were 2 different models though...

[Packedup]

Remove the backplate, pop off the cupped oil pump cover, and undo a small number of bolts - Oil pump is then free to come off. Can't remember the exact procedure, but it's basically that easy

I'm just amazed you've managed to get it back out the car! ;)

[Onne]

Thanks again for the lovely engine, and we are very strong you know!

[paulhumphries]

I assume the Morris 1000 948cc is the same as my Austin A35 version.
To use a 1098 gearbox you need to change thin 948 backplate to the thicker 1098 item.
The oil pump cover on the 948 backplate is soldered on and is a common cause of leaks. On my car it became completley detached yet the oil leak wasn't massive enough to cause immediate alarm. I soldered it back on but you need solder paste and blowlamp. More like lead loading bodywork than electrical or plumbing soldering.

Paul Humphries.

[Packedup]

Thanks again for the lovely engine, and we are very strong you know!

You must be! My back's regretting all the lugging around yesterday...

Though it was more a matter of how to get the engine back out the car (without trashing one or the other) that was puzzling me

[bmcecosse]

The oil pump is dead easy to change - but be sure to buy the correct one for your engine. Cost about £15. The pump is held on by 3 small bolts - with locktabs to secure them. The 'tin' cover is loose (well, snug fit) in the backplate - not soldered on any of mine. Oil cannot leak from there - the 'tin' seals against the backplate gasket.
It's the CAMSHAFT I am suggesting you use - NOT the crankshaft! It has higher lift and slightly longer timing - and it's easy to change when the engine is on the deck. Worth about 4 bhp - and if you later fit the head too with the CR sorted by skimming - you could get right up to the 48 bhp of the 1098 unit - but at ~ 10% higher revs of course.

[Onne]

I did mean camshaft . I have bought an oil pump.

[bmcecosse]

Good.

[bigginger]

I did mean camshaft . I have bought an oil pump.

And I've just fitted one - easy peasy

[Onne]

And I have removed one yesterday, so should be easy enough!

[bmcecosse]

Andrew - a camshaft or oil pump - or both ?? I still strongly recommend the use of the 1098 cam in the 948 engine - and when skimmed slightly (~ 40/60 thou) - also the 1098 cylinder head (12g202) to restore some of the missing horses.

[bigginger]

Well, mine's on a standard 1098, so I thought I'd use the standard parts.

[bmcecosse]

Yes - that's fine - it's just so easy to upgrade the 948 engine -especially when parts are available free from a knackered 1098.