water pump failing~ please help

Post by **Willie** » Mon Sep 15, 2003 8:30 pm

The fan blades bolt on to the water pump flange so that's
no problem. The pumps are quite cheap too(make sure
that you get a new gasket too). It is much easier if you
remove the radiator, then the fan belt and then undo the
pump fixing bolts, note that some are longer than the
others. It is important that you remove ALL traces of the
old gasket to ensure a water tight joint....I would definitely
smear some jointing compound on the new one. The water
hose connections can be tricky...especially the small top one
which connects to the cylinder head (called the by-pass hose)
if yours is a concertina shape then I would advise replacing
it with a plain,thicker, hose which is readily available, and will
last much longer

Post by **ColinP** » Tue Sep 16, 2003 8:43 am

From my recent experience...

1) The Haynes manual is a good guide to this!

2) Now is a good time to check all the hoses and Jubilee clamps (buy replacements for anything dodgy, a new fan belt, and corrosion inhibitor/antifreeze) and penetrating oil on all the bolts/screws that haven't been touched for years.

3) Start by draining the radiator (just disconnect the lower hose & stand back!), then remove all the hoses and the 4 bolts holding the radiator in the car, remove it and flush it out. It is possible to change a water pump without taking out the radiator - if you don't mind skinned knuckles & working by touch.

4) Remove generator bolts (and the adjustment stay), ditto fan blades, then unbolt the old waterpump.

5) Clean off the front of the engine block (old chisel and very fine wet/dry), then check that the new pump fits tight to the block (the one I bought didn't have the blind holes for the locating pins deep enough so it didn't seal! - maybe I'm now paranoid).

6) Put it all back together - I use jointing goo on the gasket - add the antifreeze, fill up with water - That's it.

The first time through took me about 3 hours (including flushing radiator and cleaning etc. By the third time through (sortingout the not fitting pump) it was 45 minutes.

Luck,

Colin

Post by **Chris Morley** » Tue Sep 16, 2003 12:47 pm

Excellent advice from Colin, as you'll get a good view of everything at the front of the engine bay. Also, If you leave the radiator in place it's all too easy to accidently clout the radiator with a tool and start a leak.

Post by **Kevin** » Tue Sep 30, 2003 12:51 pm

there is a rattling sound from the front of the engine and the fan is loose on its bolt

I assume this was just an error, one bolt holding on the fan ?

Post by **ColinP** » Wed Oct 01, 2003 8:40 am

TC

I'd agree that one should not take unnecessary risks, but I don't remember any live connections in this area - ok, there's the generator/alternator and the brake switch - both dead without the ignition on, or engine running.

Have I missed something? - cos I didn't disconnect anything or see any problems.

Colin

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Oct 01, 2003 1:57 pm

I think the Haynes manual recommends it before even before checking the tyre pressures.. ;-)

On a vehicle where the ECU's won't loose their calibrations and the CD player won't need the security code to be re-entered then diconnecting the battery isn't going to be an issue.
I don't disconnect it that often, but once regretted that!! When welding a bonnet hinge on a Eurobox. I earthed the welder on the bolt for the battery earth lead (at the inner wing)
Unfortunately the battery earth connection was poor and instead of earthing, it put a few thousand volts into the vehicle electrics. Not much was powered at key off but the electric water pump never worked again (powered by a sensor / relay after key off).
At least I then understood my intermittend non-cranking issue - the earth strap was a very poor connection to the body.

Needless to say the more precautions you take the less accidents you'll have.

Post by **Cam** » Wed Oct 01, 2003 2:00 pm

I only disconnect when welding or playing with the electrics. Otherwise it stays connected, but like Ray says: "the more precautions you take the less accidents you'll have."

Post by **h_____** » Thu Oct 02, 2003 9:19 am

as advised above take the opportunity to do all your hoses, my by-pass split the other night, so I took the opportunity to take the radiator out, inspect change hoses and refit. The radiator comes out very easily (4 bolts). I found with mine, that although the core on the back looks fine, the core on the front is pretty shoddy. So have a new one on order (£90!!!! eeek). changing hoses on the road side with a hot engine is never a pleasent job (even in the winter), esp that little bypass one. Oh and as stated fit a straight bypass valve when you can, and carry a concertina as a spare.

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Oct 02, 2003 9:31 am

Hugh where did you order the rad from Bull Motif only charge £49:00 & Double core £55:00 exch + vat & post, that should not come to more that £70:00 I would have thought. Also they do long life Kevlar hoses including the bypass.

Post by **h_____** » Thu Oct 02, 2003 12:19 pm

Kevin,

MGM spares is my usual haunt. I have an early type with the tall header tank. But it still seems pricey.

I like the idea of strengthened hoses too. Perhaps I should try bull motiv next time.

cheers

Hugh

Post by **rayofleamington** » Thu Oct 02, 2003 1:49 pm

Bull Motif is my favourite supplier at present, as I've tried most over the last 15 years. Their prices are good, they are generally helpful, and they seem to avoid supplying rubbish.
They also now claim to be the biggest Minor spares retailer (I'm not going to say if it's true or not but I wouldn't be surprised)