.1) Removed front seats, M/C cover plate, gear knob & gaiter, carpets, gearbox cover.
2) Undid the union nut joining the banjo connection & the rear brake pipe (it was steel, but no obvious corrosion). Undid this with ease - perhaps too easily? Was this the cause of the leak?
3) Undid the banjo connection.
4) Undid the nuts and washers holding the two M/C retaining bolts.
5) Levered the torsion bar downwards using a 14 inch crowbar from Wickes, hooking the upper (U shaped) end over the bar & pushed the other end downwards, eventually wedging the lower end against the wheel ramp. I placed some hardboard between the crowbar end and the side of the chassis leg to avoid damage to the metal . Then I just had enough room to withdraw the bolts.
6) Slid the old M/C back and upwards. The pushrod slid out easily, remaining attached to the end of the brake pedal.
7) Cleaned out the brake fluid which had pooled in the bottom of the chassis leg. 10 sheets of kitchen roll did the job nicely.
no8.) Pulled out the (steel) rear brake pipe. Snapped it at the flexible hose end to use a rachet head rather than faff around with a spanner.
9) Slid the new M/C onto the pushrod then inserted into the chassis leg. Torsion bar bent again, bolts slid in and tied up.
10) Partly done up the union nut belonging to the (new copper) rear brake pipe and the banjo bolt. Fitted washer and slid end of banjo bolt through the banjo.
11) Spent about 30 minutes trying to insert the threaded end of the banjo bolt into the hole in the new M/C. Finally managed it by pushing it in with a screwdriver while turning the banjo bolt with a spanner. Very fiddly.
12) Tightened the rear brake pipe union nut into the Banjo nut. Fitted the rubber grommet into the rear end of the chassis leg. Bent new brake pipe, secured it to the floorpan then screwed the union nut at the other end to the flexible hose.
I had to stop then (after 7+ hours) as the light was fading. I'll have to do the bleeding and gearbox cover/carpets another day.
On April 25th Willie posted this excellent advice:
"If you mean the spring on the foot brake pedal you do not have to remove it at all. When you have released the two bolts and undone
the two brake pipe connections the master cylinder will move
backwards and disengage from the pushrod. I take it that you know about 'bending' the torsion bar instead of having to dismantle the
suspension?? (The return spring for the master cylinder is actually
inside it)."
Thats exactly what I did - I didn't mess around with the speedo cable, clutch rod, pedal shaft or the clutch/brake pedals, all of which require removal according to the Autodata manual! Perhaps it was written by masochists who enjoyed dismantling things for no good reason?
Websites: 
