Rust proofing the underside

Post by **iandromiskin** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 3:44 pm

Hi.

I need to rust proof the underside of my saloon this autumn but how do I go about it. Its my first time at this. I know I have to jack it up and rest the car on axle stands, presumable four stands at front and back, and spend time and effort with a wire brush getting rid of dirt and rust etc. But what next ?? I'am told to paint the underside with hammerite and wayoyle. Is that right ??

How do I go about this task and how do I get into the difficult hidden corners - under doors, A posts, box sections etc ? ? ? This all sounds a bit daunting. Please help as I need a lot of advice on this one.

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 4:18 pm

Dont bother with hammerite & waxoil, use only waxoil or dinatrol and there associated treatments as its best to not mix different products, and use a zinc based overcoatable primer first.
Have a look on the web for info on the products and how to use them.

Post by **Packedup** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 4:51 pm

Don't bother with Hammerite as it's utterly unsuitable for the job, as much as anything else!

I swear by chassis black (pref on decent rust inhibiting primer), followed by waxoil or similar of your choice.

Post by **bigginger** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 5:23 pm

Very true - the hammerite WILL chip and flake off.

Post by **blueangelical** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 7:30 pm

wayoyle

/

waxoil

it's waxoyl

and you only need to use this..........

Post by **chickenjohn** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 7:48 am

Packedup wrote:Don't bother with Hammerite as it's utterly unsuitable for the job, as much as anything else!

I swear by chassis black (pref on decent rust inhibiting primer), followed by waxoil or similar of your choice.

I agree! Dinitrol goes on easier.

Don;t forget to spray wax based inhibitor in all box sections as well! This is probably more important, as Minors tend to rust from the inside out.

Post by **iandromiskin** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:13 pm

Don;t forget to spray wax based inhibitor in all box sections as well!

This is going to sound like a really stupid naive question, but where exactly are the box sections and how do I get access to them, or any other hard to get at space to rust proof it ?????

Post by **Stig** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 4:08 pm

iandromiskin wrote: This is going to sound like a really stupid naive question, but where exactly are the box sections and how do I get access to them, or any other hard to get at space to rust proof it ?????

No problem with naive, that's what this board is here for.

One box section either side of the engine's sump with holes in the top somewhere and a drainage hole underneath further back.

One box section(ish) in each sill. Unbolt the outer U-section bit that's under the door and lift out the angled "kick plate" (it's silver, not body colour on mine anyway) and you'll see several large round holes which make squirting wax dead easy.

There's also a box section each side at the rear - hump-shaped to get over the axle. Lift the rear seat to get at them and probably unscrew the rear load cover too, though you can see the open ends if you look in the back below the lower door hinge. -it was a Traveller you had wasn't it?

There's another one laterally under the rear seat I think.

Can't think of any more off hand, if I've forgotten any then my car's probably rusting there quietly.

Post by **iandromiskin** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 4:47 pm

Hi,

Thanks a million for clarifying that, I'll have a look at a few photos and drawings to help me along. I just have to find that U bolt under the door to get in under there now. Its a Saloon (I have a traveller too in need of restoration) I have mainly that I will be working on soon, so I presume I lift out the rear seat and it should become clear from there what to do

??? Whats the best spary inhibitor to use and where would I get it ????

Ian.

Post by **bigginger** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 5:51 pm

Just to clarify, it's not a U-bolt, but some bolts hidden away in the upside down U section (sill finisher) under the door between the A and B posts.

Post by **chickenjohn** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 6:40 pm

There are also a couple of areas to spray at the front of the car- inside of the front grille/panel area in front of the radiator as this can rust. The cross member under the radiator (may need to drill a hole to get to this). Also, the inner wing/ A post box section which is prone to rust. Remove a door hinge bolt and inject wax here, also from inside the car, reach above the parcel shelf on either side of the car to the side of the footwells and you'll be able to gain access to the area between "kidney panel" and the rear part of the inner wing. There is also an area between the rear of the front wing and inner wing that needs wax protection.

The inside of the "b" post on 2-door cars, and also C post on 4-doors, and while we're on doors, remove the door card and squirt some in the bottom of the door as these tend to rust out, and bottom edge of bootlid on saloons.

I would use the thinner cavity wax "Dinitrol" 3150, I think is the number. If you can, borrow a compressor and schultz gun- it makes wax application MUCH easier.

Post by **neiltomlinson** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 7:35 pm

hi i used waxoil on my mogey if you put the waxoil in bucket of hot boiling water it goes very watery i used a red spray gun with a long end from carboot £2 wash out after use then do 1-2 times a year you can if you want put a little underseal in with the last coat which i did

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:10 pm

Yes - hot waxoyl works very well. Also take out seat belt fittings - and squirt in there. The suspension crossmember is a big rust problem - do your best to protect it because it's a nightmare to replace.
To remove old u'seal etc - try hot air gun and paint scraper. Any obvious rust needs treating with rust killer first - most are based on phosphoric acid - burns the skin and really burns the eyes - so take all precautions. But the worst rusting is from inside out - difficult to deal with - much waxoyl injection does help - a bit!