Fitting panels...

[Iain_89_Peggy_64]

Hi all,

This is my 1st post, and would appreciate a good bit of help!
My moggy is also my 1st car aswell, but she isn't in the best of conditions.

I've got myself a 2-dr 1964 saloon, and she's a bit rusty unfortunately.
I've done some calculations on how much it'll cost me to buy panels, but would need some advice on fitting these new panels.

I believe it's called the undersill, and it's rusted out completly. I'm not too sure the best way to remove the old and fit the new sill.

My passenger side front floor pan has a little hole in it. Would it be advisable to place a bit of metal over it or remove the whole section, and then fit a new pan?

Finally, on the inner rear wings, there is/was a lip type thing, but it has been consumed by rust. I was wondering about it's relativity to holding my wing when I put them back on?

Thanks,
Iain

P.S. My car's Reg No. is BBH 570 B. I'd like to know some history about her. She's been all over Scotland from what I've gathered! (Montrose>Skye>Penicuik!)

Thanks again

[e-minor]

I have the same problem on a 1955 4dr where the rear wing plastic piping has sat between the two panels the flange has rotten out mainly around the captive bolts ...so i also need some advice regarding doing a good non-bodged repair to this area...the repair panels dont seem to go past the flange onto the shell of the car..

thanks

e-minor

fife
4dr 1955 split screen with sore floor and rear arches
4dr 1968 ebay mistake
2dr 1962 breaking now .....dieing that the 1955 may live!!
trav 1968 sat in the corner waiting for a ash tree to die and a lottery win

[Cam]

My advice would be to cut the old sill out and weld in the new one. It's the only way really. The hole in the floor needs to be cut back to fresh metal and a 'patch' can be seam welded in. This is a perfectly fine way of doing things unless the hole is so big that floor replacement would be easier. The panels are only cheap and if you can replace them yourself then it REALLY becomes dirt cheap. Otherwise you'll have to pay an automotive welder the going rate. Be careful which 'welding person' you choose though as a lot of 'welders' are awful when it comes to automotive work. Best to get a decent automotive one.

[Iain_89_Peggy_64]

Thanks cam,

hopefully the weather will be nice for when I get the chance to do so!!

Iain

[stevey]

Just as your onn the subject of rear wings. is there any way to try and protect as much of the paint as posible when welding here? (where the rear wing boltts on and the piping is) ot that mines rusty or anything. (at least with that amount of underseal on it)

[Cam]

Years ago, wet asbestos was a good way of minimising the heat, but just try to be as careful as you can.

Personally I'd rather have to repaint an area rather than have it rusty. Just cut it out, replace with fresh metal and then repaint the areas as needed.

[stevey]

yeh had planned on that. I was gonna cut out any rust and repaint but for some reason none of the paint suppliers seem to realise that trafalgar blue paint changed shade to lighter in 1968 but still used to same paint code. So I ask for blue apint I get the darker stuff!!