engine plate number

Post by **lucamarzana** » Tue May 09, 2006 9:19 pm

Hi,

I have to replace the engine plate number, the one on the engine. Looks like if it is kept in place with two nails (?).
So, before removing the old and damaged one I would like to know how I might procede and where to obtain two new "nails" to put the new one in place.

Thanks,
Luca

Post by **Onne** » Tue May 09, 2006 9:32 pm

Maybe you can try a place where they rebuild engines?

Post by **Willie** » Wed May 10, 2006 12:48 pm

Luca, they are not 'nails' they are studs which have groves cut vertically in
them so that they twist as they are knocked in. If you use a very thin blade
(old chisel) under the head you can usually start them off and extract them.
I have never seen replacements for sale. Any engine reconditioner merely
shaves them straight off during the overhaul and never replaces them!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed May 10, 2006 1:05 pm

Why replace the engine number ? Willie ^^^^ has had more success than me - I have never managed to remove these in one piece.

Post by **moggyminor16** » Fri May 12, 2006 10:07 pm

if you put a slit in the top of the studs then you can unscrew them or moll grips

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri May 12, 2006 11:03 pm

No - they are as Willie says - like grooved nails - they don't unscrew.

Post by **moggyminor16** » Sat May 13, 2006 10:09 am

well that is how i have got them out

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat May 13, 2006 3:32 pm

Obviously not originals !

Post by **Willie** » Sat May 13, 2006 7:18 pm

a good idea. I should explain that the vertical grooves are in a slight spiral
pattern so an unscrewing motion will work.

Post by **RobThomas** » Sat May 13, 2006 7:39 pm

Super hardened steel pins (I've forgotten the name) CAN be removed by slotting the top with a dremel (Hacksaw won't do) and then smack the top with a hammer to release the rust. Screwdriver and maybe some dry ice touched on it if you can get any. CO2 extinguisher emptied into a rag will make some for you. I've got a few here and will try to find the part number/manufacturer.

Alloy rivet and a blob of solder would be best for replacing the plate. Chiselling the heads off the steel driv-bolts usually gouges the alloy plate. Getting new plates made is not cheap.
Last driv-bolts I got were from Barlow Fastenings in Poole area, 1990s.

Post by **Willie** » Sat May 13, 2006 9:16 pm

I didn't chisel the heads off I just raised the heads slightly with a chisel and
then removed them quite easily with pliers.

Post by **wanderinstar** » Sun May 14, 2006 7:16 pm

But as BMC said earlier. Why remove it in the first place??
Ian.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun May 14, 2006 7:25 pm

Maybe he's getting the block machined to level the pistons with the top.

Morris Minor Owners Club

engine plate number

engine plate number

Nails

'studs'

studs