Seized Brakes!!!!

Post by **New_Boy_Traveller** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:14 am

Have just brough a car with seized front brakes, there is a little bit of pedal for the rear, and handbrake working "OK." I want to teach myself how to do the brakes, so any work needing to be done I am going to do myself, what would your advice be on getting brakes back? Would it be worth buying a "do all the brakes kit" and go from there? Just need the brakes to get it down for the MOT, so what would your advice be on sorting these.

Cheers.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 12:17 pm

I guess it depends on your long term plans for the car. I wouldn't really recomend a 'do all the brakes kit' unless you're going to get full use of it (e.g. keeping the car for a long time).
Replacin everything in one go requires a fair bit more effort for bleeding, bedding in etc..!
If it just needs front cylinders, you can do them on their own. I would recommend changing to new shoes AFTER an nMOT, not just before as they need to bed in before you get a good pedal.

Post by **New_Boy_Traveller** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 12:56 pm

Whats the best ways of analysing whats wrong?

Post by **chickenjohn** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 2:35 pm

Hi New boyT try taking the wheels off and hitting the drums (where the shoes go) with a hammer- not so hard as to break anything- that shock may free them off if its the drums/shoes siezed at the front.

If the wheel cylinders are siezed you will need to fit new ones if they are rusted up solid.
Hopefully, its just the drums.

Post by **Willie** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 5:20 pm

By 'siezed' do you mean that the fronts do not lock the wheels are that the
wheels are not free to turn at all? If it is that the fronts do not lock the wheels then the wheel cylinders are stuck solid. This my be due to rust or
could be that the brake grease used on the pistons has solidified so if you
remove the drum (back off the two adjuster screws visible through the hole
in the drum) you can then remove the brake shoes and try turning the top
plate on each wheel cylinder. If it moves then gently keep turning and pulling
until the piston comes out when you will be able to see if there is rust present
or congealed brake grease. ANY damage to the bore means new cylinders.
Do not pull too roughly on the top plates of the pistons as they break off quite
easily. That should do for starters.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:59 pm

I thought you had the car out for a run ?
If it's been standing for a long time - then new cylinders all round - and new flexi pipes (3) and probably some new 'bundy' pipes too will be needed. If you just free -off stuck cylinders there is a good chance they will shortly start leaking and ruin the shoes. If the cylinders are moving - you can of course clean them up and if ok fit new seals - this means more work but does save some cash.