Morris Minor Owners Club

I love Ebay! Set of original +20 pistons NOS £76 ....Just like my standard originals with a chrome top ring Pistons Plus 20.jpg Pistons 20.jpg Piston.jpg Water pump bearings pair £6.98 Water pump seal £5.55 Pump seal and bearings (1).jpg All including postage :D From what I had read I expected serie...

That photo of the rebore in the garden belongs in the post “ Can you really fix them on the side of the roadway?” Does that machine have a magnetic base? How do you align/indicate the bar to the bore? There is an expanding clamp that goes in an adjacent bore and also hooks on the bottom of the cyli...

I am rebuilding two 803 BRITMO engines and here is a small update. This one was still on standard bearings and bores when it was taken off the road in around 1965-70? and came to me part dismantled with my '53...looking at the pistons I cant think why? :o Britmo Engine 20.jpg Britmo Engine 19.jpg Br...

Whilst overhauling both water pumps I came across this fan blade from one of the engines which still has a good amount of the original 'Blue' paint on it. britmo engine 17.jpg You can see where the edges of the fan were masked before the whole engine was painted....and after a quick polish britmo en...

Thanks Phil

I looked at the MG paint and its much too bright blue! Mine is more of a military blue/grey colour PRU Blue was used on spitfires 'Photographic Reconnaissance Unit Blue' and its the closest Ive seen yet.

Taupe

I'm currently working on two early 803 engines (late 53 and early 54) ...both of which are BRITMO cast blocks rather than BMC or MOWOG and were originally painted blue grey colour. I think that the nearest colour I've seen is PRU Blue .....There is very little left on my engine just small patches/tr...

Simon Austerfield has some seat base parts for sale on Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listi ... attachment

Taupe

Thanks for all your replies I had a go at making a replacement for my one broken clip on this side and it went really well!...I used some polished stainless 'spring' steel sheet and was very pleased with the result. I omitted the two 'barbs' on the new one but they would be fairly easy to add using ...

I'm currently working on two early 803 engines (late 53 and early 54) ...both of which are BRITMO cast blocks rather than BMC or MOWOG and were originally painted blue grey colour. Here is a pic of one of the original engine plates which is not reverse stamped like later engines. Engine Number 2.jpg...

Rose Yes you could start with the main cross member..this helps to keep it all square when you then do each side. Brace door apertures and across the car with angle or square tube before you start. Once adequately braced you can confidently cut away what you need to without risk of distortion. Remem...

I guess the plastic flaps could easily be 3D laser printed?

Taupe

Has anyone recently sourced replacements for any of these components? Were they used on the MM as well as early (or all) series 2 front wings? I think Ive seen the clips used elsewhere for cable fixings...like these stainless steel ones below used for solar panel cables which are quite similar? Taup...

Yes the felt does need to be quite hard.. I did it with it assembled but out of the car. Slip the (extra sharpened) nail in the split line of the felt (its a short spiralled parallelogram shape ) and gradually lever/tease it out....when about halfway you can normally get a grip with pliers and pull ...

Thanks Pommreg

Aluncm think of Z36054 as a part number for versions of the traveller bodyshell the same as yours if you were to order a replacement!. The other number - the body number is unique to your bodyshell.

Taupe

These were originally hot riveted through three layers of metal at front and back (total 4 rivets each side and also spot and stitch welded for good measure). One of the rear rivets goes into the chassis rail each side. Its well worth replicating this if you can! If not then plug welding right throu...

Yes that is the Traveller Z number which is used on later series 5 travellers.... your car number should commence with MAW5/******* (your body number is the other number stamped on the NMP Plate and NMP strip and is different to your car number)

Taupe

:lol: :lol: just pull it out :roll: Not if it's been there since 1962. A screw driver and hammer was only chipping pieces off with column in situ. Ok both of my felts on three cars just uncoiled out using a 4" nail they were just pushed in when new and not glued... Perhaps yours has got wet at...

You can extend the life of the felt type by taking them out (they are split so will just pull out) give them a good massage to bulk the fibres up a little, re-oil and replace them wrapped inside out...You should get much reduced play and will get typically a further 50K miles with it.

Taupe

Try Apsley Transmissions at Hemel Hemstead 01442 504213

Taupe

If the car is still relatively as original panels wise (apart from the rust!) then starting with the crossmember is a good a starting point as any. If it been heavily repaired previously a lot more care is needed to ensure alignment is maintained.

Taupe