Morris Minor Owners Club

I have one, it is a hub puller/extractor for an Austin 7. You can still get them new if you want another!

After a lifetime of ruining bleed screws and brake pipes I bought a brake pipe spanner.

Rack from ESM arrived promptly. Garage man took two and half hours including tracking, checking and greasing trunnions etc. All straightforward except one mounting bolt had fused itself to a rack support and needed significant persuasion. Also wrapping up the old rack for return turned into somethin...

I call our a convertible because it is a conversion... At the back of the rear window there are two fastenings, one inside and one outside. On our hood the inside one is a popper and the outside is fixed with a screw. Is one supposed to undo both before lowering the hood in which case should they bo...

I've heard it told that someone once drilled an extra three holes in the wheels so the brakes could be adjusted without wheel removal whatever way the wheel was fitted. Apparently a wheel cracked and then came apart. I don't know if the OP's wheel have the additional hole for brake adjustment, if no...

I asked a similar question a while back, see here:

viewtopic.php?p=706530#p706530

Ours rattled or clattered at the slightest opportunity. Horrible noise.

I know nothing but we have just replaced the steering rack and although the car is not eerily silent the clatter/rattle has gone.

Surely this is not a coincidence...

He made it a few years ago, it took a while. I don't think my garage has quite got over it!

Our son did this in our garage, turn the volume up!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daVDrGsaDME

I plan to buy a rebuilt exchange steering rack from ESM.

Would you recommend ESM or is there someone you'd recommend instead?

Prices seem similar across all the suppliers, I have no idea about quality.

You are right, having checked the damper bolts I've decided to take the car to the garage, they are happy to diagnose and quote.

Being deaf in one ear doesn't help either! I think there are three potential culprits: The damper bolts The rack or rack damper The torsion bar etc. Plan of action 1 Stuff the rack full of grease. I know this is 'not correct' but if it shuts it up for a few miles the culprit has been identified. 2 C...

Excellent news.

I've been following this with interest since your description seems to match my rattle/clonking.

If the noise seemed to come from the nearside was it at its worst on left hand bends over bumps?

I wonder, is there a download of the manual that has been 'indexed' and organised by some nice person?

I have a normal download but it would be great if one existed that would get you to the section you want in a click or two.

Yes, as above. Plates from 'A' pillar to dash Brackets on base of 'B' pillar Sill box sections stiffened with a long 'L' shaped plate that goes along, the top and inside. Often hidden if carpet is glued down. The ends of the rail along the top of the windscreen can be untidy. 'B' pillar at the botto...

I've just had a look at this. With the alternator disconnected and ignition on, the ignition light is on and the oil light is off With the oil sender disconnected and ignition on, the oil light is on and the ignition light is off With both disconnected both are off (obviously!) So the excellent diag...

Thanks, I will have a go and see how things work out.

Our car has Lumenition Magnetronic electronic ignition and an alternator. Everything works well (touch wood) but the ignition light behaves in an unusual way, to me at least. Turn the key to start the car, light comes on, engine starts, light goes off. Everything normal. But, turn the key to start t...

The best way to ensure that a component never fails is to take a spare...

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