Morris Minor Owners Club

Your continuing woes could be the solenoid or even a simple poor earth connection between engine and chassis or chassis to battery. Poor connections will often heat up very quickly, so battery connectors can soon get hot to the touch if the fault is there. This will be my next task checking this I ...

What was the condition of the starter ring? If the starter ring is chewed up the Bendix can jam and cause the problem you are experiencing. good that you mention that. i have turned the engine over already with the krank and did an inspection of the starter ring ( as far as is possible ) before ref...

So I picked up the exchange unit starter from ESM, who kindly let me come after hours to pick it up as the ferry arrived too late. Now back home again I have installed it but alas, the "klonk,klonk! upon operating the key still persists, albeit in a different tone than before. My logic tells me...

I think that as I am visting England in early dezember, I will pick up an exchange unit whilst I am there, just to be sure.

The starter motor was indeed the culprit. I did try rocking the car forwards and backwards to no avail so ended up raising it on the lift and removing the starter. According to Haynes, you have to remove the distributor to get it out but this was not necessary, only the cap. Once out, this did free ...

That is a thought, thankyou. I know it is a bit of a struggle to get to, but I can of course (hopefully) take it off and then see if I can turn the engine over with the handle.

I have just finished replacing the back axle on my 1969 Traveller and very nice it looks too. The car was on the scissor lift all the time which made the job much easier than some of the videos I have seen of people having the car on axle stands. Anyway, went to start it for a test run and Clonk, cl...

A stern warning indeed. Let us hope I can procure a new one sometime.

Its well worth a try, thankyou for the idea. A bit of a bodge perhaps but over piece of thin steel covering the hole

Definately a better axle is the optimum solution. That presupposes a new one can be sourced or an old one less corroded. As a thought, the supporting cradle was welded on to the casing , albeit was shiny new at the time. I think I will polish around the spot to see if I can expose bare metal. That w...

Yes!

Just poked a screwdriver into the black spot which is indeed a hole and have now enlarged it a bit. Quite thin steel. It is in a position where to my mind it will be possible to weld a plate over it albeit I think the MIG welder in my hands will not be the solution. But is this feasible idea?

I have just removed the supporting U bolts etc and freed up and cleaned the axle casing, although looking at the attached pic, you would be forgiven for thinking otherwise. The flash exaggerates somewhat. I then topped up the diff with oil and ran the car on the lift in 2nd gear for 5 minutes to det...

Oje! A lot trickier than I first thought especially regarding a replacement. Anyway, first things first - will remove the U bolts etc around the area tomorrow then lets see.

Likely case corrosion around spring bed area, strip off U bolts, part axle and spring and give casing a good clean and inspection, would be my recommendation. That would seem to be the best cause of action but if the axle needs replacing, then I am in trouble - will have to go to UK to source and g...

A few weeks ago by routine maintenance I had to top up the diff oil. Not having checked it for such a long time I thought it ok that this was necessary. Yesterday evening we drove 10km to a near village to our favourite Italiener and whilst there the owner told me that a customer had seen an oil lea...

On my shelf is a book entitled " AA Readers digest Book of British Birds" . It might just as easily be a reference to european birds as for every species there is a world map showing where the particular bird has its habitat. There are very few, if any singular British birds as such. What ...

philthehill wrote: ↑Sat Aug 24, 2024 1:24 pm Good alternatives to WD40 are GT85 and Duck Oil. I use all three depending on the application.

I will ask some friends in the szene what the equivalent is here.

It seems to have done the trick with the WD40 and for good measure have squirted a bit of engine oil too. Several pullings and pushings of the choke cable has led to the choke mechanism freeing itself up. The carb does look a bit manky (is that an engl word??) as I have not done anything to it apart...

That is an idea - I will do that now. I have also noticed since that with the choke cable pressed fully in, it does not completely close off causing the idle speed to be faster than it should be. That is probably also worth a good spray as well.

Ok, it looks like some dismantling to investigate is the next step.