Hiya, I am having a problem with my pick up restoration, and have hit an electrical problem which is driving me, and most of my family and neighbours slightly crazy.
Trying to reanimate "Fat Louie" is proving more complex than I anticipated
I cannot get a spark across the points, and have tried almost everything, that my tiny brain can cope with but to no avail.
New points, plugs, etc - correctly fitted
New HT leads - Tested
New Coil
Fuses, and connectors cleaned
Starter tested and OK
Wiring (I think is OK, but am waiting on a wire tester to see if any wires are broken inside)
We have tried other things too but I must admit that I know next to nothing about electrics and I am starting to despair a little.
I am considering getting an electronic ignition kit and was wondering if anyone could recommend one as there seem to be a few about, and the level of expertese needed to attempt this kind of modification.
Also if anyone can suggest anything that may be worth a try as I am utterly devoid of ideas (apart from the fitting of an electronic ignition)
Many Thanks
Jan
Electronic Ignition Kit
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
-
- Moderator
- Posts: 3441
- Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 4:50 pm
- Location: Mapperley Nottingham
- MMOC Member: No
RE: Electronic Ignition Kit
There are a lot more morris owners in Bristol1 And an Austin man
. Maybe they can help? Bigginger, Pyoor Kate, Multiphonniks and Guydenning for example. Nice lot they are!

Onne van der S. MMOCno 60520 Moderator
2dr 1971 White DAF 55 (with hopefully a 1600cc engine soon)
2dr 1973 Bergina (DAF 44)
2dr Estate 1975 DAF 46 in red
2dr saloon 1972 DAF 44 in Mimosa
2dr 1971 White DAF 55 (with hopefully a 1600cc engine soon)
2dr 1973 Bergina (DAF 44)
2dr Estate 1975 DAF 46 in red
2dr saloon 1972 DAF 44 in Mimosa
RE: Electronic Ignition Kit
You don't really want a spark across the points - that's a sign of a faulty condenser! Of course, a small spark does usually occur and can be ignored. What follows depends on whether you have +ve or =ve earth. Let's assume -ve (ie modified, not standard). Withte ignition on, +ve is supplied to one contact on the coil. You can check this by connecting that wire (white) to a meter or a bulb and then to earth. If the bulb lights then you've got 12 volts. Now the other terminal of the coil with the white / black wire goes down to the distributor. Disconnect at the dizzy end, and repeat the meter / bulb test, you should still have 12 volts. Now put an HT lead in the coil and place the other end close to an earth point (don't hold it unless you enjoy a shock). Alternately hold the white/black wire on and off a good earth point. This simulates the points and should cause a spark on the HT lead. If not, = faulty coil.
If OK so far, then reconnect white / black wire at dizzy, and disconnect from coil. Take a +ve feed to a bulb (or meter) and then use the white/black wire to make the earth. With the points closed the bulb should light, with them open it should go out. No light = bad earth in dizzy (check the small lead from the terminal to the base plate), always on = short in dizzy, again check the internal lead; and of course that the points have their insuylating washers in place.
That's enough for starters, let us know how it goes.
If OK so far, then reconnect white / black wire at dizzy, and disconnect from coil. Take a +ve feed to a bulb (or meter) and then use the white/black wire to make the earth. With the points closed the bulb should light, with them open it should go out. No light = bad earth in dizzy (check the small lead from the terminal to the base plate), always on = short in dizzy, again check the internal lead; and of course that the points have their insuylating washers in place.
That's enough for starters, let us know how it goes.
RE: Electronic Ignition Kit
Do PM if you want a hand/borrow of a meter etc. How's the rest of it gone?
-
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 720
- Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 12:32 pm
- Location: Bristol
- MMOC Member: No
Why don't you turn up next tuesday at the Bristol meet? It'd be great to see you and you may get some suggestions there!: )
<img src="http://www.aminorjourney.com/webcam.jpg" width="200">
[url=http://www.aminorjourney.co.uk/wordpress/]A Minor Journey[/url] A neogreen musician, her girlfriend and a cast of thousands!
Keep track of the restoration with the live webcam!
[url=http://www.aminorjourney.co.uk/wordpress/]A Minor Journey[/url] A neogreen musician, her girlfriend and a cast of thousands!
Keep track of the restoration with the live webcam!
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3204
- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: S E London
- MMOC Member: No
no spark
THINK SIMPLE.....the usual cause of this problem is when the points
have been changed and incorrectly assembled. The easiest way to
check is to turn the ignition on and measure the voltage at the black/
white wire on the side of the dizzy which should read 0v(points closed).
when you open the points the voltage should read 12V. If this does
not happen then check the order of assembly on the points which should
be, bottom to top, insulating collar, spring eye,flexible lead from the
side contact on the dizzy AND the lead from the condensor, and finally
the other insulating collar. Secure it with the nut(hand tight and then
+ a 1/4 turn.
have been changed and incorrectly assembled. The easiest way to
check is to turn the ignition on and measure the voltage at the black/
white wire on the side of the dizzy which should read 0v(points closed).
when you open the points the voltage should read 12V. If this does
not happen then check the order of assembly on the points which should
be, bottom to top, insulating collar, spring eye,flexible lead from the
side contact on the dizzy AND the lead from the condensor, and finally
the other insulating collar. Secure it with the nut(hand tight and then
+ a 1/4 turn.
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]