Ford gearbox

[Blaketon]

I am about to rectify the pig's ear Wares made of the five speed installation in my car, which mainly concern the clutch. However, whilst at it, shorter remotes are now available for the Ford box, plus drain plugs are now an option, so the gearbox is coming out too.

I've not removed this type of box before but unlike my Midget 1500 and the BGT V8, there is no flange on the back of the box and the universal joint is part of the gearbox output shaft. Clearly that will need to come out and I expect some oil will drain out. If I can get it out before removing the box, that will be better and I am hoping there is room to remove it past the rear axle. Question is, are there any circlips etc, to be removed before the output shaft can be removed from the gearbox?

[philthehill]

No circlips. the UJ and output shaft just pulls out of the rear of the gearbox.

[Blaketon]

Many thanks.

[Blaketon]

Had a bit of spare time today, so disconnected the clutch slave cylinder and the prop shaft came out very easily (Easier than on a Midget), so I think that's the last thing to disconnect before the engine comes out.

[Blaketon]

It's all ready for loosening and lifting this weekend. I was thinking put a piece of 2 X 2, to support the gearbox and remove the mountings. Then support on a trolley jack (Remove the 2 X 2), which can roll forward as the engine is lifted and once sufficiently far, the gearbox will simply be raised clear too. I have a tilting device, which I've not used before.

I imagine this will be one of the easier engine removals, compared with MG Midgets and some FWD cars; I think the only easier one would have been a mid engined racing car, where all the bodywork could be removed from around the engine. I've offered up the new manifold (Same pattern as used on Mini Cooper S, as opposed to Midget) and carbs, before I remove the engine and it looks like it will be OK.

[philthehill]

If the Cooper S exhaust manifold is a ex factory pressed steel item and is intended to be fitted a Minor it will hit the chassis leg. I suspect that any aftermarket Classic Mini LCB exhaust manifold will do the same.
The throw out of the bottom of the manifold is there to clear the Mini gearbox therefore it fouls the Minor chassis leg.
One of the first modifications I tried on my Minor. Back then Cooper S exhaust manifolds had a tendency to break in two at the bottom end and had to be replaced so giving me the chance to try a broken one on my Minor.

[Blaketon]

It's the inlet manifold that is meant for a Cooper S but it's made by Maniflow.

[philthehill]

Thanks for the clarification.
The angle of the classic Mini Cooper S HS 2 carb is slightly different to that of the MG Midget so I would suggest that the angle of the carbs is clarified as the float chamber fuel level could be effected

[Blaketon]

The Midget manifold comes out level and the end is angled at 20 degrees. The Mini carb face is tilted at 30 degrees BUT the inlet tracts slope upwards from the head. My exhaust manifold still stands a bit too proud but so I gather, the Maniflow LCB will clear their Mini inlet. I took some measurements and drew the attached. Given that a Maniflow Midget manifold will clear the even tighter Midget inlet manifold, there should be no issue getting something to fit. The Minor outlet angle is simply there to get the pipes over to the left more and thus could be delayed a tad. I have clearance between the carbs/heatshield and the brake servo (May need to move servo as the jets get a bit close to it when the choke is fully open) and there is no problem with the bonnet support. Midget air cleaners (I didn't plan on using them) would foul the wiper motor and servo, so K&Ns will be needed but there is room for a bit more depth.

The float chambers had a bit of latitude, anglewise and are now level.

Hopefully engine out this weekend, to get on with rectifying what Wares did but at least, with this trial fit, I know more of what is needed when it comes to putting it back together.