recommending engine oil.

[Rousell]

Hi , I need to top up my ' new to me ' engine oil, it's a 1969 MM Traveller with 1098 engine , I heard someone mention mineral type . Can anyone recommend a specific brand please ?

[svenedin]

East Sussex Minors use Castrol Classic XL 20w/50 and that is what I have used for a long time but at my recent oil changed I switched to Millers. The Castrol is a low detergent oil and as such the engine may be a bit more prone to sludge accumulating in the sump and elsewhere. Millers make a classic car engine oil that has moderate/high detergent levels, Miller Classic Pistoneeze 20w/50.

Oil is a big subject and I don't claim to have much knowledge about it. Basically, old engines like ours ran on oils that used zinc as the main anti-wear additive (ZDDP). That additive is not compatible with catalytic converters so for modern cars it was phased out. Classic car oils do contain ZDDP and should not be used in modern cars.

Do shop around for oil as there is a lot of price variation. Carry out oil and filter changes at the specified intervals or if the engine is unknown to you, you may wish to change the oil sooner. Even if the car is not driven the specified number of miles it would make sense to do at least an annual oil and filter change especially if the car has lots of short journeys.

The gearbox uses the same engine oil as the engine. It does NOT use gear oil.

The differential uses EP90. This must be GL4 or if GL5 it must specify that the oil is safe for brass/bronze. Millers Classic differential oil EP90 GL5 specifically says it is compatible with brass and bronze.

Off topic, does your 1969 car have a PCV valve? My 1969 car does and I have over the years formed a hypothesis that is only 1969 cars. Many have been removed.

Stephen

[geoberni]

Any 20W/50 Traditional Oil marketed for Classic Cars, Older Cars etc.

'Mineral Oil' is something derived from actual Oil, rather than synthetic as used by Modern cars.
To quote Wikipedia

Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds that are artificially modified or synthesised. Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials. The base material, however, is still overwhelmingly crude oil that is distilled and then modified physically and chemically. The actual synthesis process and composition of additives is generally a commercial trade secret and will vary among producers...

Which is why oil for modern cars is marketed for particular Brands, like Ford, Vauxhall/GM, BMW etc, all their engines are designed to use a particular blend for optimum performance, environmental rating etc, etc. These synthetic oils are usually much thinner than traditional oils which suite the tight tolerances involved in modern engines.

But roll back the clock to the build tolerances of a 1940s/50s engine, it wants thicker oil because that's all that was around when it was designed.

And the good thing is, it's a whole lot cheaper than the stuff for modern engines.

£25-£30 for 5L is all you need spend.

[svenedin]

Any 20W/50 Traditional Oil marketed for Classic Cars, Older Cars etc.

'Mineral Oil' is something derived from actual Oil, rather than synthetic as used by Modern cars.
To quote Wikipedia

Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds that are artificially modified or synthesised. Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials. The base material, however, is still overwhelmingly crude oil that is distilled and then modified physically and chemically. The actual synthesis process and composition of additives is generally a commercial trade secret and will vary among producers...

Which is why oil for modern cars is marketed for particular Brands, like Ford, Vauxhall/GM, BMW etc, all their engines are designed to use a particular blend for optimum performance, environmental rating etc, etc. These synthetic oils are usually much thinner than traditional oils which suite the tight tolerances involved in modern engines.

But roll back the clock to the build tolerances of a 1940s/50s engine, it wants thicker oil because that's all that was around when it was designed.

And the good thing is, it's a whole lot cheaper than the stuff for modern engines.

£25-£30 for 5L is all you need spend.

Yes indeed. I was in a well known car parts shop today and I was absolutely shocked by the price of the latest super oils for modern cars. Shocking! We are lucky the oils we need are cheap in comparison. Mind you, the service intervals for modern cars are much, much longer so the oil cost per mile is cheaper for a modern car.

Stephen

[Rousell]

Hi , and Thanks , I can go ahead source ... I am going to admit a significant lack of knowledge here ,, what is a PCV Stephen , and thanks again .

[svenedin]

Hi , and Thanks , I can go ahead source ... I am going to admit a significant lack of knowledge here ,, what is a PCV Stephen , and thanks again .

It’s a valve with a mushroom shape, made by Smiths, attached to the inlet manifold with a rubber breather tube connecting it to the tappet chest cover. It reduces the pressure in the crank case and helps to reduce oil leaks from the engine.

Stephen

[geoberni]

Yes indeed. I was in a well known car parts shop today and I was absolutely shocked by the price of the latest super oils for modern cars. Shocking! We are lucky the oils we need are cheap in comparison. Mind you, the service intervals for modern cars are much, much longer so the oil cost per mile is cheaper for a modern car.

Stephen

Oil for my 1.8L Ford, around £45+
Oil for my Wife's 1.3L Vauxhall, around £55+
Because they are serviced by Mileage or Annually, and are too smart for their own good, they still need the oil changing if low on the annual mileage.
Both are Diesel so have different types of Particulate Filter (DPF) cleaning system.
The GM caused us some concern a few years ago as the DPF Warning light came on.
Took to an Independent Vauxhall specialist and the DPF was blocked, because it won't self clean if it decides the engine oil is too old (I have no idea why...).
We were lucky in that the garage managed to cyclically twice soak it in cleaner and then override it to do a forced 'clean', which required 2 oil changes, an overnight stay with them for the first soaking.
So I don't mess around, they get an annual oil service irrespective of their mileage....

[paul 300358]

I use Morris's oil simply because I was given a old Morris's oil jug.

[Chief]

East Sussex Minors use Castrol Classic XL 20w/50

ESM also sells Comma X-Flow 20w/50 and since I found it on Amazon free delivery for £13.39 that's what I went with.

I see it's now jumped up to £19.78, though that's still cheaper than ESM since they're £27.18 a bottle:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OIPZ21A

[svenedin]

East Sussex Minors use Castrol Classic XL 20w/50

ESM also sells Comma X-Flow 20w/50 and since I found it on Amazon free delivery for £13.39 that's what I went with.

I see it's now jumped up to £19.78, though that's still cheaper than ESM since they're £27.18 a bottle:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OIPZ21A

Comma X-flow 20w/50 is £17.40 inc VAT for 4.5 litres from ESM. Then there's the club discount. If ordering enough other stuff it may qualify for free shipping. Having visited the ESM workshop several times, they use Castrol XL Classic 20w/50 in customers cars. Drums of it all over the place!

If you have several classic cars that use the same oil it is considerably cheaper to buy engine oil in bulk e.g. 20 or 25 litre containers.

Stephen

[oliver90owner]

Geoberni wrote:
Oil for my 1.8L Ford, around £45+
Oil for my Wife's 1.3L Vauxhall, around £55+

Engine oil for my BEV is zilch. Gearbox oil is likely only to need changing at 80-100k miles? Two gearboxes, mind.

No DPF issues either.

Just expensive to start with - although second hand (and new) prices are reducing.

[MikeNash]

Rousell,
I'm going down a different path; see here viewtopic.php?t=77250 The graphs linked to the thread may interest you. Whatever you choose, I strongly urge you to fit a magnetic drain plug. Drilling you existing plug is easy enough and then you can araldite in a cylindrical magnet (say, about 5mm diameter) that you can buy cheaply in online.
MikeN.

[myoldjalopy]

Its a good idea.Alternatively, you can buy a magnetic plug: https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engin ... er-p830179
BTW - I use classic car oil from Halfords.............

[svenedin]

Or the "Gold Plug" AP-01 which is quite expensive but has a very powerful Neodymium magnet. It will probably scare you the first time you change the oil though. It scared me!

viewtopic.php?t=77282&hilit=engine+ominous


Stephen

[philthehill]

Alternatively you can get a oil filter wrap around magnet
For example:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112578146589 ... R-z3uJbKYw

[cLunK]

On the subject of magnts

I found old PC hard drive magnets are extremely strong!

Used a couple zip tied to the outside of the disco oil filter for years

They will hold each other through a 2 inch counter top.
Even off road.