Cylinder head removal 1098

[eng622]

Pics are not always that good and can be misleading. Oddly no1 piston crown has no carbon deposits the other 3 have some and about the same. Cleaned the 3 noted +o.020 so must have had a rebore when Ivor S had it.
Nothing wrong with piston 2, all the bores are perfect, nothing of note.
There are two score lines between 1&2 one goes right across the other part way. Cleaned the area in the combustion chambers and blew out with compressed air. Does not look to be a crack, I estimate the score marks to be no more than10 thou. deep.
There is a massive history file with the car including the Ivor S engine bill plus fitment. Ivor S generally have a good reputation but the mechanic who recommended a head skim had a problem. A van, guess diesel, he fitted an IS engine only to find it was a duffer and now they are replacing it.
It is possible that a PO swapped the heads and fitted the duffer I have but not convinced.

[svenedin]

Just thought I'd mention that there is more than one type of copper head gasket on the market.

The Payen gaskets are no longer made. ESM sells a copper gasket (only available as part of a gasket set) that is copper with a black ring around the cylinders. It is quite flimsy. Minispares sell a copper gasket which is made to the Payen specification but they say it is improved. It is more expensive. I bought both and because the Minispares gasket seemed far more robust and better I fitted that type.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engin ... er-p830230

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... o%20search


Stephen

[eng622]

Have bought the ESM one so hope it is good. Will be taking the head to a skimmer for an appraisal, anyone know one in Notts/Derbys.
Another question relates to ignition timing as mentioned to check. It has an electronic dist. and on cranking with the starter motor I get a spark but with the hand crank nothing. Can you do a static test or only dynamic with a strobe, which I have but of course cannot use now. The TDC grove does line up with the TDC pointer when no1 on TDC so at least that is ok.

[svenedin]

Have bought the ESM one so hope it is good. Will be taking the head to a skimmer for an appraisal, anyone know one in Notts/Derbys.
Another question relates to ignition timing as mentioned to check. It has an electronic dist. and on cranking with the starter motor I get a spark but with the hand crank nothing. Can you do a static test or only dynamic with a strobe, which I have but of course cannot use now. The TDC grove does line up with the TDC pointer when no1 on TDC so at least that is ok.

You can't really do a static test with a Hall effect electronic ignition module (e.g Lumention Magnetronic, Pertronix Ignitor, Accuspark). It is possible to get a rough idea of when the ignition will fire using an analogue voltmeter but the voltage pulse is so brief it is not very useful.

The fact you don't get a spark when using the starting handle is not surprising. I have never managed to start my car with the starting handle when using Hall effect electronic ignition whereas I find it easy with the standard points ignition. The reason for this is that the distributor rotor magnet part of the electronic ignition has to be moving quite fast for the Hall effect sensor to trigger the spark. Well at least that is what I hypothesise. This applies to Hall effect type electronic ignition and not the type that uses a light beam and sensor (Lumenition Optronic which you CAN statically time).

Just set up dynamically. Remember to slow the engine down (using the slow running screw on the carb) so that the rpm is below that of the centrifugal advance and also to disconnect the vacuum advance pipe from the distributor and block the end with tape. About 6 degrees BTDC at 500-600 rpm is usually OK but every engine is a bit different and the workshop figures were written when fuels were a different Octane rating from what they are now. Generally, you can advance a little bit more but if you want to be absolutely safe stick to 6 degrees BTDC. Many people say "advance until it pinks". ESM told me they have quite often seen cars set with ridiculous degrees of advance when that method has been used. Probably because it is quite hard to detect pinking on a static engine and it only presents itself under load on the road (which is when it risks damaging the engine).

The timing marks are difficult to see. Put some Tippex or white paint on the pulley notch. The you will have to go under the car with your strobe. Either you have to keep getting up off the floor to tweak the distributor or have a helpful assistant up top. If you have a strobe where you can set the advance in degrees it makes it much easier (you set the strobe to 6 degrees advance and then when correct the timing pulley mark will line up with the TDC pointer).

Stephen

[myoldjalopy]

"Many people say "advance until it pinks". ESM told me they have quite often seen cars set with ridiculous degrees of advance when that method has been used. Probably because it is quite hard to detect pinking on a static engine and it only presents itself under load on the road (which is when it risks damaging the engine)."
The 'advance until it pinks' method is only to be used on road tests. The idea is set the dizzy position to get smoothest idle when car is stationary, and then carry out a series of road tests, advancing the spark until the engine just starts to 'pink' under load, and then back off until just at the point where it doesn't 'pink'.