I am currently replacing both front chassis half legs. Before dismantling I checked both front wheel centre lines (chassis leg hole centre) to torsion bar ends as per dimension D on the attached drawing. The drivers side is as the drawing at 991mm. The passenger is at 996mm. Measurement H confirms the discrepancy is at the centre cross member. I want to correct the passenger dimension D. Can I, move the rear torsion bar arm 5mm on the splines, or pack the rear torsion bar arm between it and the centre cross member or a combination of both?
Phil here are your comments from a previous post regarding the rear arm stepped washers. Do you think it is feasible to have a 5mm stepped washer made to solve the problem?
"The problem with that end of the torsion bar is the poor location of the stepped washer.
For more positive location ditch the horseshoe washer and replace with a stepped washer as per the rear washer.
The stepped washers produced these days do not have a good right angle step and I find that they have to be recut in the lathe.
If not a right angle step it is easy for a single washer to slip out of the cross member which results in additional forces on the pin at the rear of the torsion bar which can result in the pin bending.
Having the crossmember gripped between the two stepped washers improves the situation considerably".
Torsion Bar Install after Chassis Leg Replacement
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Torsion Bar Install after Chassis Leg Replacement
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philthehill
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Re: Torsion Bar Install after Chassis Leg Replacement
When replacing the front chassis leg the main measurement to work to is 'C' - between the front rear spring eye centre and the front suspension eye bolt centre. When replacing the rear spring front hanger the measurement required works the other way.
Overcoming any discrepancy in the crossmember location is relatively easy.
Once you have fitted the new chassis leg you can then fit the torsion bar. There is enough fore and aft movement of the torsion bar available to enable the torsion bar to be centred in the thick suspension arm and the torsion bar reaction lever. I would suggest that there is no need to have a special stepped washer made just use an additional stepped washer fitted to the front of the crossmember (ditch the horseshoe washer)https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/washer-lo ... soc=138819. Make sure that there is a very slight gap between the two bosses of the washers so as the outer face of the stepped washer can tighten against either side of the cross member. If required you can always use additional 1/2" plain washers between the shoulder of the torsion bar and the stepped washer if required.
The torsion bar reaction lever can be packed forward if required to maximise the spline length.
Make sure that you have sufficient of the rear torsion bar stud protruding through the packing and cross member to enable nut and spring washer to be fitted.
It is always going to be a case of suck it and see as regards what is required though deciding what parts are required to centre the torsion bar should be relatively easy.
Please come back to me if further help required.
Phil
Overcoming any discrepancy in the crossmember location is relatively easy.
Once you have fitted the new chassis leg you can then fit the torsion bar. There is enough fore and aft movement of the torsion bar available to enable the torsion bar to be centred in the thick suspension arm and the torsion bar reaction lever. I would suggest that there is no need to have a special stepped washer made just use an additional stepped washer fitted to the front of the crossmember (ditch the horseshoe washer)https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/washer-lo ... soc=138819. Make sure that there is a very slight gap between the two bosses of the washers so as the outer face of the stepped washer can tighten against either side of the cross member. If required you can always use additional 1/2" plain washers between the shoulder of the torsion bar and the stepped washer if required.
The torsion bar reaction lever can be packed forward if required to maximise the spline length.
Make sure that you have sufficient of the rear torsion bar stud protruding through the packing and cross member to enable nut and spring washer to be fitted.
It is always going to be a case of suck it and see as regards what is required though deciding what parts are required to centre the torsion bar should be relatively easy.
Please come back to me if further help required.
Phil
Last edited by philthehill on Sun Nov 12, 2023 12:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Torsion Bar Install after Chassis Leg Replacement
Many thanks Phil for the prompt reply. I will be fitting this week so will apply your advice.
Re: Torsion Bar Install after Chassis Leg Replacement
Phil
Have obtained and fitted the stepped washers. As you stated they had to be filed a little to finally fit. The photo shows the small gap between the washers when fitted.
To get an accurate measurement for C I've used a 8mm screwed rod between the front rear spring hangers. With the stepped washer and additional packing washers measurement C same both sides at 1630mm.
Have obtained and fitted the stepped washers. As you stated they had to be filed a little to finally fit. The photo shows the small gap between the washers when fitted.
To get an accurate measurement for C I've used a 8mm screwed rod between the front rear spring hangers. With the stepped washer and additional packing washers measurement C same both sides at 1630mm.
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philthehill
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Re: Torsion Bar Install after Chassis Leg Replacement
Phil
I'm ready to install the torsion bars. Looking at the manual it simply states tightening the torsion bar and lever nuts but no torque settings.
The attached sketch shows the bar assembly at the cross member end. With the stepped packing washers fitted how much torque/effort should there be before the assembly becomes metal bound bearing in mind the compression on the front bushes.
Should the bar only be tightened after the front suspension components are fitted?
Thanks Pete.
I'm ready to install the torsion bars. Looking at the manual it simply states tightening the torsion bar and lever nuts but no torque settings.
The attached sketch shows the bar assembly at the cross member end. With the stepped packing washers fitted how much torque/effort should there be before the assembly becomes metal bound bearing in mind the compression on the front bushes.
Should the bar only be tightened after the front suspension components are fitted?
Thanks Pete.
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philthehill
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Re: Torsion Bar Install after Chassis Leg Replacement
There is no specified torque settings for the nut on the rear end of the torsion bar - just do up tight.
There should be slight clearance between the two stepped washers when the nut on the rear end of the torsion bar is done up tight.
The front eye bolt bushes will have no effect on the required tightness of the nut on the rear of the torsion bar.
The front suspension bolts/nuts can be lightly nipped up before setting the suspension - fully tighten after setting the suspension to the right height. Again no torque specified for the fittings - just do up tight.
There should be slight clearance between the two stepped washers when the nut on the rear end of the torsion bar is done up tight.
The front eye bolt bushes will have no effect on the required tightness of the nut on the rear of the torsion bar.
The front suspension bolts/nuts can be lightly nipped up before setting the suspension - fully tighten after setting the suspension to the right height. Again no torque specified for the fittings - just do up tight.