LED Indicator help

[exlkrs]

Morning fellow Moggists. 1971 Traveller. Recently changed to Led side/stop tail and pleased with the results. Went for indicators too but having problems. The FU supplied with kit works intermittently. It is cheap and nasty, and i've tried with a couple i've had for years with no luck. Any suggest a decent one they recommend? Also, will I also have to change the one in the aftermarket Hazard set up? Regards, Chris

[stuupnorth]

Hi mate
i used this company and ordered on the 12v ones
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collec ... electronic
hope that helps
Stu

[Bill_qaz]

Or you can get inline resistors to simulate bulb load and keep original flasher and 4 way flasher units.

[geoberni]

Morning fellow Moggists. 1971 Traveller. Recently changed to Led side/stop tail and pleased with the results. Went for indicators too but having problems. The FU supplied with kit works intermittently. It is cheap and nasty, and i've tried with a couple i've had for years with no luck. Any suggest a decent one they recommend? Also, will I also have to change the one in the aftermarket Hazard set up? Regards, Chris

This brings the old joke to mind...
'Are the Indicators working?'
'Yes... No... Yes.... No...'
Whose Kit was it?
Just a suggestion, but complain to them about it being faulty.....

Aftermarket Hazard setup? Well it depends on what the set up is?
Is it fitted yet? Try it and find out.
It's hard to answer your question when we don't know what you've done.

Or you can get inline resistors to simulate bulb load and keep original flasher and 4 way flasher units.

It's possible, but for someone who doesn't know what they're doing, a complete PITA.
The actual suggestion of 'inline resistors' is already confusing, since someone could think that meant in Series.
A Ballast Resistor would need to be connected in parallel not series, but someone who doesn't know that could well get it wrong.

[exlkrs]

Complaining - for a couple of quid I can't be bothered and would rather get a better one. The hazard warning kit is the genuine accessory that has been fitted possibly from new

[Bill_qaz]

they usually come with instructions, such as
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384658397972 ... media=COPY

[oliver90owner]

Just for clarity. Those ‘ballast’ resistors would need to be across the LED, not in-line. In-line (series connection) would decrease the circuit current even further when actually it needs a shunt load (in parallel to the LED) to increase the circuit current to a level similar to the original bulb loading. Each resistor will dissipate around 33W - so equivalent to two 18W lamps, when the LED current draw is included.

Personally I think that calling them ballast resistors is incorrect as they are just a simple shunt resistor. One automotive use of a ballast resistor is/was to reduce the current through a 6V ignition coil (to prevent burning out the points and possibly the coil) when used in a 12V system. The ballast resistor was shunted out for higher coil current (so better spark energy) when the starter motor was operated dragging down the battery voltage due to high current demand of the starter motor. During cranking the coil would be fed from the starter side of the starter solenoid, not from the ignition switch.

[Bill_qaz]

Or you can get inline resistors to simulate bulb load and keep original flasher and 4 way flasher units.

I should of said in circuit instead of inline, but I didn't say in series or parallel so kicking off the theoretical discussions but as I added they come with wiring instructions.
It was just a suggestion to op as an alternative to replacing two flasher units.

[mowogg]

Assuming you have standard leds and no thr ballast type you will need to change the flasher unit in the hazards. If its the same as mine you will need a 2 polen electdonoc unit which I was able to fit in the same place as the original. This was pretty cheap I recall. £3 is from ebay a few years ago

[exlkrs]

Thank you all, much appreciated.

[svenedin]

I have changed to LED flasher bulbs and all works exactly as it should including the pilot lamp in the indicator stalk. I used an electronic flasher relay that is earthed. These come in positive and negative earth variants and are not interchangeable. Be aware that if you connect this incorrectly it will instantly destroy the relay.

You can either replace the flasher can relay on the bulkhead with this electronic type or you can leave the original flasher can in place and bypass it by fitting the new relay under the dashboard. You would have to run some new wires in this case. I moved mine so that I can hear the tick tick.

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/produc ... -p-2-3-pin

Stephen

[geoberni]

Complaining - for a couple of quid I can't be bothered and would rather get a better one. The hazard warning kit is the genuine accessory that has been fitted possibly from new

So if it's already fitted, why haven't you just tried it to see if it works....
If it's been fitted for years/decades, it may or may not .

The ones you can buy these days, have for many years included a connection to inhibit the Indicator flasher when the Hazards are operated.
I fitted one to my car which I'd had since the early 70s, it doesn't have such refinements.
It's pot luck as to the operating parameters of the Hazard Unit, so nobody can really tell you if it'll work or not.

[exlkrs]

Well. Finally got the LED indicators sorted with the addition of the correct flasher unit. (Thanks Classic LED). So, to the Aforementioned 70's Unipart Hazards, which were on the car when I got it and worked well. They don't now. I removed the integral Lucas 12fl flasher can, and ordered the correct electronic one. Still waiting for it to arrive, but noticed today that with one side of the indicators activated on the stalk, pulling the Hazard switch makes the Hazards work, even with no flasher unit in it, and the two wires just left in mid air. Any thoughts?

[geoberni]

Still waiting for it to arrive, but noticed today that with one side of the indicators activated on the stalk, pulling the Hazard switch makes the Hazards work, even with no flasher unit in it, and the two wires just left in mid air. Any thoughts?

As I mentioned back in October, original 70s units don't inhibit the Indicator Flasher. So I can only assume that in the circumstances you describe, the 'Indicator Flasher' is connected to both sides.
Without seeing it, and where the 'two wires just left in mid air' are coming from, it's had to say exactly where it's connecting.