Rear Suspension Overhaul Advice please

[ROGER B]

Reading through this thread I note the instruction to fit the springs with two clamps forward and one back. The new ESM springs have four clamps. Are they symmetrical and can be fitted either way round?

[philthehill]

The reason for the clamps being fitted to the spring is to keep the leaves together when the spring winds up separating the leaves and which makes the spring go into a very shallow ' S '. The main forces for winding up the spring act on the front half of the spring hence the two clamps fitted to the front half.
The rear of the spring does not suffer so badly with spring wind up so only the need for one clamp. One or two clamps can be fitted to the rear of the spring.
In this case the springs have two clamps at the front and two at the rear so the spring is symmetrical and can be fitted either way round.

[ROGER B]

Thank you!

[svenedin]

I am still waiting for the springs but the exhaust was blowing too much so I just fitted a new stainless steel exhaust from ESM and new exhaust hangers.

I decided to try to do jobs in a sensible order for once so I had the manifold off, cleaned up the manifold and replaced the gasket. Whilst the manifold was off I investigated the oil leak down that side of the engine and found very tired tappet chest gaskets and completely hardened washers on the tappet chest bolts. All replaced.

Whilst under the rear seat I found old fixings which must be for child seats (they say Mothercare on them).

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[svenedin]

I renewed the rear leafs, about 20 years ago, pig of a job then because everything was seized! Violence was certainly used. Used rubber bushes which still look to be in excellent condition.
I raised and supported the body, using jack and axle stands respectively, behind the petrol tank. Weight distributed evenly using a long enough piece of sturdy hardwood. I can't remember where that method was recommended. No damage done.
Out of curiosity, and this is in no way a recommendation, I did lift the rear of the car using an engine crane with slings under the two bumper mounts. They are surprisingly strong.
Sorry if you know this, but the springs have a front and rear. Take note of where the leaf clamps are. Double and single. Without checking I don't know whether the two clamps are front or rear.

Actually this is in the Haynes manual. "Place a suitable support under the rear cross-body member as close to the rear of the spring as possible and remove the jack"

At least I assume that is what the Haynes manual means......

[geoberni]

Whilst under the rear seat I found old fixings which must be for child seats (they say Mothercare on them).

Just seen this image.
Yes, those are late 70/ early 80s anchor straps. If you had your child in a Carry Cot style pram, the carry cot could be put on the back seat and strapped down with a couple of similarly thin and flimsy straps..I remember getting some in 1983.... I can't remember what the seat version was, ... Here's an image I found online:

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[svenedin]

Whilst under the rear seat I found old fixings which must be for child seats (they say Mothercare on them).

Just seen this image.
Yes, those are late 70/ early 80s anchor straps. If you had your child in a Carry Cot style pram, the carry cot could be put on the back seat and strapped down with a couple of similarly thin and flimsy straps..I remember getting some in 1983.... I can't remember what the seat version was, ... Here's an image I found online:
Carry Cot Strap.JPG

Aha so that's what it is. What a lucky kid to have been riding around in (now my) convertible. I am a child of the 1970's and I had nothing so posh! My mother had a horrible blue Fiat 127

[svenedin]

I have gathered together the parts I need for this job and the springs have arrived from Jones (they look really good). Over the last week I have sprayed all of the nasty rusting fixings with PlusGas twice so hopefully they will let go (or break, I have new parts so I do not really care).

I bought (Amazon) an adjustable BGS brand "face pin wrench" and it fits the front spring pin absolutely perfectly. This might be useful for those who do not want to make their own tool.

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[philthehill]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271594734375 ... R6zVgs-3Yg

[svenedin]

One side is stripped down. Took me about 2 hours. I am now having a pause for tea and for paint to dry. I know everybody has a favourite penetrating oil but I am impressed with this (and it is less stinky than PlusGas): https://www.wd40.com/products/penetrating-oil/

In the end I did support the body immediately behind the petrol tank (rear crossmember) as per the Haynes manual instructions. Seems fine. Jack stands x2 with blocks of wood. It would seem that this method obstructs access to the rear excessively but I am really working from the sides so it does not matter. I have 2x ramps under the car as well in case of disaster.

Bushes are not in great condition, damper links worn out and the front spring pins are worn. The front spring pin plates seem fine so I think I will retain the old ones. If the pins fit properly that is......

A few questions if I may.

1) The old U-bolts had locking nuts on them which the new ones do not. Does this matter?

2) The old leaf springs have a washer, nut and locking nut onto the bracket in the centre. The new springs are not like that. Does it matter that there will be no direct attachment in the centre?

3) I do not think I will be able to get a new split pin in and the damper link to chassis. I am going to use a nyloc nut instead. I believe this is a common slight modification. Is it OK?

[svenedin]

One question I've answered myself. The nuts on the U-bolts are nyloc. I had not noticed.

[philthehill]

The spring centre location bolt is correct but I would be tempted to put a spot of Loctite on the threads of the pin and nut. Use a 'G' clamp to keep the leaves together whilst the nut is undone to smear some Loctite on the threads.
The 'U' bolt nuts did originally have the locking half nut but it is perfectly alright to use a washer and nyloc nut instead.
It is perfectly alright to use a nyloc nut to secure the top of the damper link.

[svenedin]

Thank you Phil.

I am now resting for the evening. I was working on the car for 10 hours! It fought me all the way.....grrrr. Probably ranks as one of those nastiest jobs I have ever done on a Minor.

I had to cut 2 bolts off. One on a damper and the other one one of the front spring pins. I do think it is beyond ridiculous that Morris expected people to take the damper off to check the oil level, especially when they are so incredibly awkward. Can't get a socket or even a ring spanner on the damper nuts. daft. I have an angle grinder but I am not confident with it in a confined space. I thought it was too dangerous and too likely to damage something other than the seized nut and bolt. I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel instead. Slow but less chance of ruining something.

Everything is fitted but not tightened up. Tomorrow morning I will tidy up. check all my work and then tighten things up with the car on the ground and someone standing in the back.

Basically I replaced almost everything except the front spring pin plates because the old ones looked fine.

Polyurethane bushes all round and polyurethane spring pads except the damper drop link top bush which is pre-fitted and rubber (it does not look like the bush will come out AND the poly bushes are too long, the link arm is not absolutely identical to the original).

I used lots of copper grease so I hope it will not be such a ghastly job for the next person....


Might be of interest. One of the dampers is painted gold. Seems there were other parts "Gold Seal" as well as engines. It was this (replaced) damper that gave me the problems. Some careless mechanic decades ago rounded off the nuts.

Must box up those dampers to go back for the surcharge refund. I have 3x to go back. A welcome £150!

Stephen

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[svenedin]

Oh and one other thing. The springs are in full droop at the moment (the car body is on axle stands and the axle is attached to the springs) and I am concerned that the rear spring eyes are very close to hitting the body. These are quality springs from Jones Springs. The old springs did not hit the body at the back but I now wish I had taken a photograph to show what clearance the old spring had. I will have to see what happens when the springs are loaded but I am a bit worried that they are not right after all this work.

Stephen

[svenedin]

So far so good. I had trouble getting the “sandwich” of spring pads and metal plates to tighten evenly. On both sides the top metal pad plate hung up on the u-bolt on one corner. Loosening off the u-bolts and taps with a hammer eventually aligned things properly so that the “sandwich” could be fully tightened also assisted by adjusting the jack under the axle.

Waiting for a break in the weather for a test drive. Meanwhile loads of very greasy tools to clean up.

Stephen

Here is the "sandwich" complete with poly bush grease "mustard". I repainted the damper brackets.

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[svenedin]

I think we can say these bushes are totally worn out and way overdue for replacement!

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[svenedin]

Quick test drive and all is well. The car is unnervingly quiet (no creaks, bangs or rattles). A very nice firm and positive driving experience. Those Jones springs do fit perfectly now the car is loaded. I should not have worried.

Combined with the front suspension overhaul I did earlier (refurbished dampers, poly eye bolt bushes and top trunnion bushes) the car's road handling is transformed!

I would like to thank everybody who helped me with this job. I was daunted by it but it is done and done well. I am happy. Thank you all. I would never have attempted this job without the support of this community.

Stephen

[SEROWMANMICHAEL]

Rear dampers fitted to axle,not to chassis is this a special mod,not seen before

[svenedin]

Rear dampers fitted to axle,not to chassis is this a special mod,not seen before

It's not a mod. It's the original arrangement. The dampers are mounted onto a bracket that is then secured to the axle along with the centre of the spring. A drop link connects the damper arm to the chassis.

See this diagram: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-m ... 51-71.html

The dampers are mounted to part number 22 on that diagram.

[svenedin]

Somebody asked in another thread recently what angle the shackle brackets should sit at with a "healthy" spring that has not become flattened and tired.

This is how the bracket sits on my newly overhauled suspension with new springs. The bottom of the bracket actually tilts forwards very slightly with the car on the ground but not laden.

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