Rebuilt MG Midget 1275 engine for sale

[philthehill]

Whilst it may overcome the problem of the Minor fan hitting the canister I would advise against modifying the fan as shown in the above photo..
The fan can experience a lot of vibration which could lead to failure of the fan.
The red fan clamping plate in the photo above was introduced to reduce and alleviate cracking of the fan blade radiating from one or more of the 1/4" UNF fan mounting bolts. Originally the clamping plate was not fitted.
You are also reducing the efficiency of the cooling fan to shift air.

[jagnut66]

Hi,
Unfortunately there is a time limit on how long you can edit posts on this site, so I am unable to alter my original post.
I have been able to do it on the other sites that this is advertised on but, to make people on here aware, I have now included a link to the P & L Minis breather and pointed out that my engine will require one (link below).
To allow for this extra outlay by any purchaser I have reduced the price to £2000 ONO.
Best wishes,
Mike.
https://www.plminishop.com/Classic_Mini ... Hand_.html

[millerman]

Whilst I respect Phil's comments re modification to fan blade to clear the breather cannister especially on highly tuned competition engine, I am positive the average Minor owner would have no problem with balance of the fan blade provided the same amount is cut off each end of the fan blade with a tin snips. If felt necessary it is an easy matter to balance the fan blades.
Yes, the mod will reduce air flow which is rather academic as the Minor engine is probably over cooled any way!
I've covered 30 odd thousand miles with this mod, so far, no problems with fan

I note, according the ad for the P & L mini breather, a slight modification is required to prevent fouling of the timing chain
Sorry J'nut for going off topic, good luck with the sale

[jagnut66]

a slight modification is required to prevent fouling of the timing chain

Only in the event you have or fit a duplex chain and then it's only a minor mod (no pun intended ), a standard single chain is unaffected.
That said, my engine has the duplex chain fitted.....
I'm glad that the issue of breathing got raised on here, as silent viewers on other sites would not have prompted me over it and I now feel that base is covered.
The only downside is that my advert has turned into a bit of a saga, so just as well it's on other sites.
Best wishes,
Mike.

[philthehill]

The vibration and cracking of the fan radiating from the qty 4, 1/4" dia holes occurred to the standard Minor fan (not highly tuned engines) and which led to the fitment of the additional clamping plate.

The minor mod refers (when fitting a duplex chain) to the removal of the timing sensor bracket and the dimple underneath the timing chain sensor bracket. The dimple can be seen in the bottom photo.
The timing chain cover sensor bracket and dimple have been removed from the cover below.

Timing chain cover 1.JPG (1.27 MiB) Viewed 1506 times

The baffle plate may also need to be removed.

Timing chain cover 1.JPG (1.27 MiB) Viewed 1506 times

The cover below has had the baffle plate removed to allow fitment over a duplex chain set up.

Timing chain cover 3.JPG (1.3 MiB) Viewed 1503 times

[ampwhu]

i got around it by fitting an electric fan. mine is on a manual switch but i only ever really switch it on in traffic on a hot day.

[jagnut66]

Hi,
This is now on eBay, as an online auction starting at £1500. Link below.
Best wishes,
Mike.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175807410293

Rebuilt 1275 A series engine 9.JPG (477.96 KiB) Viewed 1334 times

[jagnut66]

Now SOLD for £1600 and on it's way to Germany, to go back into an MG Midget I believe.
Best wishes,
Mike.

[svenedin]

Now SOLD for £1600 and on it's way to Germany, to go back into an MG Midget I believe.
Best wishes,
Mike.

That’s really excellent. Back in the car it was intended for.

[philthehill]

Well done.
Factoid for today
Have you ever wondered what the two bosses on the 1275cc blocks were for at the rear of the block?
The forward boss was drilled and tapped and a oil pipe connection to the dry sump oil pump was made.
The dry sump oil pump was mounted on the fuel pump boss which had an aperture and driven by an additional skew gear on the camshaft.
A delivery pipe from the dry sump pump was then connected to a dry sump oil holding tank, a pipe from the holding tank connected with the rear boss and the oil was then delivered as normal around the engine.
With a normal 'A' Series there is a direct drilling between the front and rear bosses and the oil connections are not made. With the dry sump version the drilling between the two bosses is blocked and the oil circulates via the dry sump oil pump.

[jagnut66]

Have you ever wondered what the two bosses on the 1275cc blocks were for at the rear of the block?
The forward boss was drilled and tapped and a oil pipe connection to the dry sump oil pump was made.
The dry sump oil pump was mounted on the fuel pump boss which had an aperture and driven by an additional skew gear on the camshaft.
A delivery pipe from the dry sump pump was then connected to a dry sump oil holding tank, a pipe from the holding tank connected with the rear boss and the oil was then delivered as normal around the engine.
With a normal 'A' Series there is a direct drilling between the front and rear bosses and the oil connections are not made. With the dry sump version the drilling between the two bosses is blocked and the oil circulates via the dry sump oil pump.

Interesting Phil but you haven't explained why they did it?
Which, if either was / is better?
Or was the dry sump version intended for where cars were put to another use, for example rallying?
Best wishes,
Mike.

[StillGotMy1stCar]

Perhaps for use in boats, where it’s difficult to get to the sump plug, would make servicing easier.

Regards John

[philthehill]

The dry sump facility was used where the engine was mounted lower in the chassis to keep the weight low down so reducing the ability to have a deep or normal depth sump. A dry sump was also used to eliminate the oil from surging to either the front, rear and sides of the sump when cornering, braking and accelerating so leaving the oil pickup pipe entry devoid of oil. The engine oil with a dry sump is/was kept in a separate chamber which was not subject to oil surge. The dry sump reduces the chance of the crank hitting the oil under surge conditions resulting in the crank breaking. Also not having a wet sump reduces windage - that is were the rotating crank picks up the oil and throws it away from the oil pick up pipe.
The above is mainly used on racing engines especially the BMC XSP 'A' Series racing engines..
I did have a windage tray fitted to the sump of my 998cc minor engine.
You can also have a baffled sump to reduce oil surge.
Here is a link to some photos of a 'A' Series fitted with a dry sump system:-
http://www.sebringsprite.com/yourcomments.html
The comments and pictures by Jonathan Whitehouse-Bird dated 3rd May 2015.