lt lead dizzy

[mamodesen]

Evening ladies and gents

Quick question, I'm hoping to get the answer to.

Is there any issue replacing the braided LT wire inside the dizzy with a non-braided, plastic insulated wire. Cant see a difference, but I'm not an electrician

don't think it matters, but she's a 1958 convertible, pos earth, 948cc, dm2 dizzy

thanks in advance

[myoldjalopy]

No, it will be fine. In fact, I did this recently as the old braided wire was hanging on by a few threads at one end!

[oliver90owner]

Do remember that the points move as the timing changes. Too stiff may impeded that action. Too much flexing of a solid conductor may lead to fracture. They didn’t use a braided wire for no good reason. A multi stranded wire could be OK, if you take on board the above.

[mamodesen]

No, it will be fine. In fact, I did this recently as the old braided wire was hanging on by a few threads at one end!

its been sat in a garage for 30 odd years, so prob original and so much of the braiding has just disintegrated

Do remember that the points move as the timing changes. Too stiff may impeded that action. Too much flexing of a solid conductor may lead to fracture. They didn’t use a braided wire for no good reason. A multi stranded wire could be OK, if you take on board the above.

I did consider this, but they're on that thread independently and with the nut tightened can't see how that wouldn't be more of an issue of impeding the arm. And surly the movement of the points is in the metal arm bending and not it moving on that thread and in turn moving the wire, especially with the nut tightened?

Thanks for the advice guys, I knew I would get quick, and knowledgeable responses here

[svenedin]

No, it will be fine. In fact, I did this recently as the old braided wire was hanging on by a few threads at one end!

its been sat in a garage for 30 odd years, so prob original and so much of the braiding has just disintegrated

Do remember that the points move as the timing changes. Too stiff may impeded that action. Too much flexing of a solid conductor may lead to fracture. They didn’t use a braided wire for no good reason. A multi stranded wire could be OK, if you take on board the above.

I did consider this, but they're on that thread independently and with the nut tightened can't see how that wouldn't be more of an issue of impeding the arm. And surly the movement of the points is in the metal arm bending and not it moving on that thread and in turn moving the wire, especially with the nut tightened?

Thanks for the advice guys, I knew I would get quick, and knowledgeable responses here

When the vacuum advance operates, the whole platform that the points are mounted on rotates.

You can buy a new lead and it is a braided insulation wire. Link is for a later 25D distributor. The best quality parts are available from Martin Jay at Distributor Doctor

I would suggest you will be fine with a non-braided lead as a temporary fix but fit the proper lead when you can.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/ignit ... d4-p831044

Stephen

[myoldjalopy]

OP has DM2 dizzy, so that lead in the link won't fit in the slot where its meant to go in the body of the dizzy. ESM don't seem to supply the LT lead for the DM2, but the Dizzy Doc does - and guess what....his has the plastic coated wire! I really don't think the good doctor would supply anything sub-standard or unsatisfactory, so I stand by my original comment - it will be fine. As stated, I have one fitted in my car, if it ever causes any problems I will be sure to let you all (including the good doctor) know

[svenedin]

OP has DM2 dizzy, so that lead in the link won't fit in the slot where its meant to go in the body of the dizzy. ESM don't seem to supply the LT lead for the DM2, but the Dizzy Doc does - and guess what....his has the plastic coated wire! I really don't think the good doctor would supply anything sub-standard or unsatisfactory, so I stand by my original comment - it will be fine. As stated, I have one fitted in my car, if it ever causes any problems I will be sure to let you all (including the good doctor) know

Fair enough! As long as the wire is long enough to permit the rotation of the points platform when vacuum advance operates. It is not much movement but the wire must have some slack.

[oliver90owner]

OP has DM2 dizzy, so that lead in the link won't fit in the slot where its meant to go in the body of the dizzy. ESM don't seem to supply the LT lead for the DM2, but the Dizzy Doc does - and guess what....his has the plastic coated wire! I really don't think the good doctor would supply anything sub-standard or unsatisfactory, so I stand by my original comment - it will be fine. As stated, I have one fitted in my car, if it ever causes any problems I will be sure to let you all (including the good doctor) know

Poster wrote ‘ non-braided, plastic insulated wire. My reply was based on exactly what he wrote - and I explained why. At, that time we did not know the quality/grade of ‘plastic insulated wire he might inadvertently choose to use. Sometimes it can be important to cover the alternatives that might be (rightly or wrongly) chosen.

[myoldjalopy]

Well, to sum up then - if the OP has obtained a replacement LT wire for his DM2 from the DD, it will be fine. If he is repairing his original LT wire with plastic insulated wire, he will now know to ensure it is just long enough to have enough play in it, and it will be fine - we assume he has enough gumption to select a suitable thickness/grade of wire if this is the case

[taupe]

Distributer Doctor ones are correct...and braided!

The condenser wires are not..but then they are not constantly flexing.....

https://www.distributordoctor.com/low_t ... ectors.htm

Taupe

[myoldjalopy]

Well, that is interesting 'Taupe'. I can assure you that the one I got and fitted from DD a couple of years ago has a white plastic sleeving - maybe he didn't have the braided wire available at that time? Bit of a mystery.......

[olonas]

Before I converted to electronic ignition, although I realise a properly set up and maintained c.b. system works perfectly, I went through two of those "aftermarket" l.t. wires, plastic insulated. Both would intermittently fail and stop the engine. I never discovered why for some time and it took a lot of figuring out why the engine occasionaly lost spark only to return after removing the dist. cap and checking. I must confess to firing the parts cannon, i.e. new cap, h.t. leads, coil, points, rotor arm etc., until finally one of those Lucas l.t. cables fixed it!
I managed to source two old original Lucas (braided) wires, fitted one and never had it happen again. Those Lucas wires always seem very delicate and flimsy to me, but they do work and are very durable.
I suppose it is, once again, poor quality of modern parts in some instances.

[myoldjalopy]

Thanks for the warning 'olonas'. If I ever get any intermittent ignition problems, I will look to this lead as first suspect, although the wire in mine looks fairly robust and, as it came from the DD, I am hoping it will not cause any issues. If it does, I will let you all know.......

[olonas]

I suspect that it was just bad luck at the time because both the "dodgy" parts came from the same place and I never found a reason for it with those wires.

[myoldjalopy]

Presumably they were not supplied by the good doctor?

[olonas]

No, I suspect they were purchased from some random seller on that well known auction site!

[oliver90owner]

Well, to sum up then - if the OP has obtained a replacement LT wire for his DM2 from the DD, it will be fine. If he is repairing his original LT wire with plastic insulated wire, he will now know to ensure it is just long enough to have enough play in it, and it will be fine - we assume he has enough gumption to select a suitable thickness/grade of wire if this is the case

It has nothing to do with ‘gumption’. If the poster is unaware, he may fit the wrong parts, simply because he does not know and has been told something is OK in any and all forms.

Now, how many times have I needed to post, just on this forum, ‘don’t assume’. It is only OK if your assumption is actually correct.

I most certainly try not to make any assumptions, without qualification.

[olonas]

"assume" definition = could make an ass of u and me!

[myoldjalopy]

Well, to sum up then - if the OP has obtained a replacement LT wire for his DM2 from the DD, it will be fine. If he is repairing his original LT wire with plastic insulated wire, he will now know to ensure it is just long enough to have enough play in it, and it will be fine - we assume he has enough gumption to select a suitable thickness/grade of wire if this is the case

It has nothing to do with ‘gumption’. If the poster is unaware, he may fit the wrong parts, simply because he does not know and has been told something is OK in any and all forms.

Now, how many times have I needed to post, just on this forum, ‘don’t assume’. It is only OK if your assumption is actually correct.

I most certainly try not to make any assumptions, without qualification.

Eh? This is a leg-pull, isn't it? Gumption (common-sense, initiative, resourcefulness) is a quality no good mechanic should be without and is useful in all walks of life. And we all have to make assumptions at some time or another - the most accurate ones are made based on a calculated probability borne of personal experience and knowledge.

[les]

Gumption, yes common sense ! It prompted me to look up other definitions and found —— initiative, resourcefulness, and imagination
So without it, one would be at a distinct disadvantage, in any situation. It’s precisely what’s needed when/if one isn’t sure how to do something, and in the absence of someone to ask.