Oil from breather pipe

[philthehill]

Do not put wire gauze in the canister. It will soon block up and rust away. You need to insert one or more stainless pan scrubs.
Below is a photo of the inside of the timing chain cover with breather/oil separator.
You rake out the crud via the hole with braze around it.

Timing cover 2.JPG (1.3 MiB) Viewed 2736 times

Below is what you will find in the canister. There are two clips shown which go across the opening and hold the gauze in place. They can be discarded as the stainless steel pan scrub(s) is a different animal..

Canister debris.jpg (81.79 KiB) Viewed 2734 times

[millerman]

Hi Phil,
What is the likely result if the canister is cleaned out and left empty and is the plate with the hole removable?

[philthehill]

The result of leaving the stainless steel pan scrub(s) out could be that oil is pushed out through the canister oil separator.
The plate is not removable.
The only access to the wire wool filling is through the hole in the inner front face of the timing cover.

[millerman]

Phil, thanks

[Classiccars]

Thanks all for the info.Can someone advise on the valveI need to fit the pipe to the rocker as this seems the best option as well as new wire in the cannister.I can sort that but need that part please

[svenedin]

it's a PCV made by Smiths. Don't buy a modern repro (I have had trouble with them). There are two designs. The more recent one has a more easily replaced rubber diaphragm. You'll need the inlet manifold drilled and tapped for a thread and then a spigot can be installed. The PCV attaches to a short section of pipe on that spigot but it also has a bracket to stop it wobbling which attaches to the manifold. It's not complicated really and what I say sounds more difficult than it actually is. Basically you attach a pipe from the "chimney" to the PCV. Then your crankcase blow by is sucked into the inlet manifold and burnt in the engine. All engines have some blow-by, worn ones more of course.

[philthehill]

Forget about having a take off from the rocker cover.
Do the job properly and take a pipe from the canister on the timing chain cover to the PCV valve. The manifold needs to be drilled and tapped to take a stub to accommodate the pipe from the PCV valve to the inlet manifold.
Even if you do not fit a PCV valve you will still have to deal with the fumes/oil mist from the canister.
Make sure that the oil filler cap is the 'breather/vent' type

[svenedin]

Do not put wire gauze in the canister. It will soon block up and rust away. You need to insert one or more stainless pan scrubs.
Below is a photo of the inside of the timing chain cover with breather/oil separator.
You rake out the crud via the hole with braze around it.
Timing cover 2.JPG
Below is what you will find in the canister. There are two clips shown which go across the opening and hold the gauze in place. They can be discarded as the stainless steel pan scrub(s) is a different animal..
Canister debris.jpg

Exactly what I did. Don't use something that looks like a Brillo pad. Use stainless pot scourer that looks more like curly hair.

[philthehill]

This is the valve you need:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304929753441 ... BMnvSb7YNi
Do not buy an early valve as the early diaphragms with the attached valve pin is no longer available.
Here is a link to the parts required for fitting the PCV valve:-
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-m ... 58-66.html
Item No: 30 is the pipe that connects the canister to the PCV valve.

[Classiccars]

Thanks for the info.Valve is no problem but do I need more than the identified part no30 or is it just that one.Neeed to be sure I have everything to do the job thank you

[philthehill]

Look at the MOSS link above and everything is there that you need from Pt No: 30 to Pt No: 48 inclusive.
I only put No: 30 there as an indicator as to the pipe between the canister and PCV valve.
The adapter https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/adaptor-h ... soc=515730 thread into the manifold is 5/8" UNF.

[Classiccars]

Thank uou I see some of it maybe on back order but at least I know what to get now.

[Classiccars]

Thanks Phil.Will I need the pcv valve as well as no30 to 48 to fit to the manifold please.

[Classiccars]

Yes I can see for myself now that it is included with the other parts.So am I correct that if I purchase parts 30 to 48 that's everything for the job thanks

[Classiccars]

Am I correct please re my last post.

[philthehill]

Part No: 32 is a complete PCV valve (made up of parts parts No:- 33 - 34).
Parts No's 39 - 48 are the manifold fittings to enable the PCV valve to be fitted to the manifold.

[Classiccars]

Thanks very much will get that lot and get put on.Job should be done thank you.

[Classiccars]

Have been disassembling the front of the engine today to get to the timing cover so I can get the gauze out of the breather cylinder.Can you please advise the process and size to remove the main what I think is the dog bolt.I believe I have only this and the timing bolts left..Don't think the water pump has to come off the 1275 engine.Also could not find any stainless hair type wire wool as was advised to go in the cylinder.

[Classiccars]

20230520_142114.jpg (1.39 MiB) Viewed 2527 times

[philthehill]

You were advised to fit one or more stainless steel pan scrubs into the canister. Do not use wire wool.
The water pump does not have to be removed .
The starter bolt has a head of 1 5/16".
Use a slogging spanner or a rattle air gun.
Below is the correct BMC special tool for removing the crankshaft bolt/starter dog

Crankshaft bolt spanner 1.jpg (71.58 KiB) Viewed 2522 times