1275 clutch release bearing noise

[moggiegeek]

Having finally got Moggie back on road and ( briefly) problem free I'm wondering if I've made a big mistake...
The engine is a 1275 with an ESM flywheel that takes an uprated minor type clutch with an MG1275 gearbox.
It has a hydraulic clutch actuating mechanism.
I fitted a roller bearing rather than the graphite faced release bearing
The problem is that it's developed a screeching sound when slipping the clutch. Have I made a big mistake fitting the roller bearing? Can't bear the idea of hoiking the engine out..........

[Jim McCrae]

A couple of thoughts:
If the fault is with the release bearing, applying light pressure of the clutch pedal will cause it to spin and you should hear the noise.
If the noise is apparent when you are slipping the clutch then that might suggest problems with the clutch pressure assembly or friction plate.
Another possibility is the spigot bearing.
It is difficult to diagnose the cause and its probably impossible to fix without dismantling.

I had a similar problem with the clutch in my 1275 Morris. I traced this to a faulty pressure plate which allowed the pressure pad in the centre of the assembly to rotate against the fingers of the spring diaphragm.

Good luck

[philthehill]

Is the roller release bearing in the link below the one you have fitted?
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... ch-p829573
Can you please provide a link to the clutch cover you have used?
Once I know what clutch assy you have fitted I should be able to provide an opinion and what the problem is likely to be.
Phil

[moggiegeek]

Thanks Phil, as it has turned out on the second run of the car - it's only just finished after a few years - I realised that the noise did coincide with taking power from the engine and slipping the clutch. However...On checking today in the daylight I found I could provoke the noise by sharp revving of engine - At the front. It turns out that as the engine powers up it moves slightly forward bringing the water pump bolts into ( harmless) contact with one of the cooling fan's plastic external structure. Once it had lathed off enough clearance the noise subsided. I have now tightened the top engine steady and created greater clearance by trimming the fan casing. Suitable domed Allen bolts would help too.
I am much relieved I can tell you.

[philthehill]

Thank you for the update.
I take it that you have an electric fan fitted.
I must ask - are the electric fan blades / fan rotation configured to pull air through the radiator?
Phil

[moggiegeek]

I fitted two fans, both sucking air into the engine bay with a thermostatic switch and additional electric switch. Between them they create quite a breeze in the engine bay. Last summer's heat prompted me to add the second one. I do wonder to what extent the shrouding etc blocks airflow, however I worry more about being in stationary traffic. I know the minor radiator is said to be overcooling. I also fitted two bonnet grilles to assist the exit of hot air.

[les]

If air is being sucked into the engine bay, in my mind the fans should be the grill side of the radiator, is that the case ? Reading your posts I couldn’t determine this.

[Bill_qaz]

Surely the fans would be engine side of radiator drawing air in through the radiator in the same direction as air flow created by the car moving.if not the two airflow would be fighting against each other when moving?

[philthehill]

From the information in the posts above I determine that the eclectic fans are placed on the rear face of the radiator otherwise the water pump pulley would not have been hitting the shroud of the electric fan.
I am surprised that there are concerns about the ability of the alloy radiator to keep the engine cool. The alloy radiator should be more efficient size for size against a brass or steel item. That said what is the manufacturing quality of the alloy radiator?
It make little difference to the ability of the fan to cool whether the electric fan(s) are placed engine side or in front of the radiator. What is important is that the electric fan(s) are of the correct size and have the correct rotation of the fan blades to either pull or push air through the radiator. The natural flow of air through the radiator should be from front to back.
It is not unknown for fan blades to be fitted that have the wrong deflection so they try to push air back through the radiator core against the natural flow of air so negating the cooling effect of the radiator.
My own alloy cross flow radiator as originally fitted to a Vauxhall Astra and supplied new from GM is fitted with a electric fan and shroud mounted to the rear face of the radiator and which pulls the air through the radiator. When the fan operates a noticeable change in the coolant temp can be seen.

[moggiegeek]

Sorry to cause confusion. There are two fans side by side on the engine side of the radiator. The radiator is a conventional one. Not aluminium.
The fans suck air into the engine bay. So the car can stand still at fast idle with a stable temperature for a long time.
The shrouding or fan casings are a bit bulky - more modern fans available have less casing hence my minor concern about them limiting airflow.
The grilles I referred to are placed on top of the bonnet each side of the centreline thereby enabling hot air to exit towards the windscreen.
Not to everyone's taste I know.
Hope that helps. A couple of pictures to follow to clarify when permafrost relents.

[philthehill]

Now where did I get the idea that a alloy radiator had been fitted

radioactiveman