Please don’t shoot me, but I’ve had to replace a waist rail because it was rotten at the rear joint. I’ve followed the Ray Newell instructions on this except that the side panels were all nailed from the inside instead of screwed. Having hammered them back to loosen the nails, they’re now obviously dented (see picture). Is there any reasonable fix for this or will the panels have to come out for reshaping and repainting? I know, I know, but I couldn’t see another way of getting the nails out from the inside, and I couldn’t leave the waist rail as it was.
Reshaping traveller side panels
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
-
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2022 12:22 pm
- MMOC Member: Yes
Reshaping traveller side panels
Philip
Just gradually working things out...
Just gradually working things out...
Re: Reshaping traveller side panels
Philip
On the assumption that you don't have any bodywork hammers and dollies , then a bit of improvisation is called for.
To get rid of the dents / distortion you will need some reasonable size ( not thin wood ) wooden battens and a couple of large G cramps.
A bit of a jugging exercise but place a wooden batten each side of the panel.If you're nervous put masking tape on the outside of the panel to protect
the exterior paintwork. The battens should cover the small top edge of the panel i.e the bit you are trying to get flat again.
Just tighten the G clamps enough to hold the battens. If you can enlist a helper at this stage it would help enormously.
You can exert a lot of pressure with a large G clamp , the battens spread the load , so it is not concentrated at one point. You don't want an indetentation mark of the metal " jaws " left on your panels.
Work along the top of the panel, moving the position of one the clamps at a time. Go for the " peaks " first , gently teasing them down. Once the
whole " run " along the top has been completed you can really tighten up the clamp "sandwich " ( 2 battens and the panel ).
Carefully remove everything and inspect the result. Half stick your head inside the car so that you can get a good line of sight, to see if it is straight.
Steel body panels have a tendency to want to spring back to the distorted position. If you have this situation after the first clamping put the thickest batten behind the panel.You want to place the G clamps about a fist's width apart , straddling the "peak ".This time instead of the second batten substitute two smaller offcuts of wood to go underneath the feet of the clamps. Make sure the clamps are done up tightly. Using reasonably heavy
hammer tap, the high spot down. Put your left hand behind the batten for support and VERY IMPORTANTLY ensure that the face of the hammer blow
is " flat / square " to the panel ( assumption your right handed ).Continue until you are happy with the result clean up all the panel, polish the paintwork and then start on the woodwork .
Good luck with it. Bob
On the assumption that you don't have any bodywork hammers and dollies , then a bit of improvisation is called for.
To get rid of the dents / distortion you will need some reasonable size ( not thin wood ) wooden battens and a couple of large G cramps.
A bit of a jugging exercise but place a wooden batten each side of the panel.If you're nervous put masking tape on the outside of the panel to protect
the exterior paintwork. The battens should cover the small top edge of the panel i.e the bit you are trying to get flat again.
Just tighten the G clamps enough to hold the battens. If you can enlist a helper at this stage it would help enormously.
You can exert a lot of pressure with a large G clamp , the battens spread the load , so it is not concentrated at one point. You don't want an indetentation mark of the metal " jaws " left on your panels.
Work along the top of the panel, moving the position of one the clamps at a time. Go for the " peaks " first , gently teasing them down. Once the
whole " run " along the top has been completed you can really tighten up the clamp "sandwich " ( 2 battens and the panel ).
Carefully remove everything and inspect the result. Half stick your head inside the car so that you can get a good line of sight, to see if it is straight.
Steel body panels have a tendency to want to spring back to the distorted position. If you have this situation after the first clamping put the thickest batten behind the panel.You want to place the G clamps about a fist's width apart , straddling the "peak ".This time instead of the second batten substitute two smaller offcuts of wood to go underneath the feet of the clamps. Make sure the clamps are done up tightly. Using reasonably heavy
hammer tap, the high spot down. Put your left hand behind the batten for support and VERY IMPORTANTLY ensure that the face of the hammer blow
is " flat / square " to the panel ( assumption your right handed ).Continue until you are happy with the result clean up all the panel, polish the paintwork and then start on the woodwork .
Good luck with it. Bob
-
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 6:24 am
- Location: New South Wales, Australia
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Reshaping traveller side panels
Mogbob I don't mean to detract from your advice, but these panels at the back of Travellers are aluminium, not steel.Steel body panels have a tendency to want to spring back to the distorted position.
Don
Re: Reshaping traveller side panels
Don...I stand corrected. Even greater care and subtlety required for Aluminium.
Thanks Don Bob
Thanks Don Bob
-
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2022 12:22 pm
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Reshaping traveller side panels
Morning Bob,
Thanks ever so much for the detailed reply. I understand all that you’ve written there, thank you, as well as the need for sizeable pieces of wood. My concern is that, as the panels reshape, the paint might crack and therefore need proper attention anyway. By “proper attention” I mean someone experienced with bodywork!
That all sounds very possible though, thank you, Sam’ and will also help straighten the corners I had to bend back, in order to access the screws into the middle of the waist rail. I so wish the previous owner had used screws instead of nails - would’ve made removal so much easier. Ho hum, you live and learn….
Thanks again Bob.
Thanks ever so much for the detailed reply. I understand all that you’ve written there, thank you, as well as the need for sizeable pieces of wood. My concern is that, as the panels reshape, the paint might crack and therefore need proper attention anyway. By “proper attention” I mean someone experienced with bodywork!
That all sounds very possible though, thank you, Sam’ and will also help straighten the corners I had to bend back, in order to access the screws into the middle of the waist rail. I so wish the previous owner had used screws instead of nails - would’ve made removal so much easier. Ho hum, you live and learn….
Thanks again Bob.
Philip
Just gradually working things out...
Just gradually working things out...
-
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 6:24 am
- Location: New South Wales, Australia
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Reshaping traveller side panels
I agree. Very gentle, carefully judged work required with ally sheet to avoid causing more harm than good. As Mogbob said, protection for the painted surfaces will be required. The susceptibility of paintwork to damage will depend to a degree on the type used. Modern 2-pack is very tough as evidenced by the 'paintless dent repair' industry (search online if you are unfamiliar with the processes used). I'm not so sure about older paint formulations.Even greater care and subtlety required for Aluminium
Don
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 1377
- Joined: Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:20 pm
- Location: Chelmsford, essex
- MMOC Member: No
Re: Reshaping traveller side panels
Try and get it warm first, the paint is less brittle and likely to crack if it is warm (not hot just something like 30deg C).