Rear drum brakes
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Rear drum brakes
My 1000 has just failed the MOT on equalisation of the rear brakes? The bloke said maybe a lazy cyllinder? Has anybody had this problem, and how do l make sure thay are equal??? Is it just adjustment or is there more to it?
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RE: Rear drum brakes
Make sure all the brakes are free (not sticking). If the cylinders are fine then there should be no problem (assuming they are adjusted correctly). If it's a sticking cylinder, then it's best to replace it. They are not too expensive and to ensure a good balance, replace the other side at the same time.
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RE: Rear drum brakes
the rear brake cylinders are meant to slide on the backplate as it's a single-ended piston design.
There is a second piece to the piston operated by the handbrake, so if the cable is over adjusted, this can cause poor efficiency. (slack off the cable, re-adjust the shoe adjusters, then re adjust the cable.)
Brake balance is also affected by the shoes and the drums so if you can't find any mechanical issue you could try swapping the brake shoes from one side to the other - then see what the brake readings are.
If it is the shoes that cause the problems, then you need a new set, however as the new shoes seem to be badly made you need to do a good few hundred miles to bed them in - otherwise the brakes will be poor and you still fail the MOT
(ie it's best not to change brake shoes just before an MOT)
You may also have a faulty drum, causing one side to grab, giving a higher reading than the other.
Therefore there's quite a few things to check!
My traveller failed on front brake balance in April and I needed to change the shoes around to get it to pass - however I'd done a day of work checking the pistons etc.. before realising that I was going in the wrong direction.
There is a second piece to the piston operated by the handbrake, so if the cable is over adjusted, this can cause poor efficiency. (slack off the cable, re-adjust the shoe adjusters, then re adjust the cable.)
Brake balance is also affected by the shoes and the drums so if you can't find any mechanical issue you could try swapping the brake shoes from one side to the other - then see what the brake readings are.
If it is the shoes that cause the problems, then you need a new set, however as the new shoes seem to be badly made you need to do a good few hundred miles to bed them in - otherwise the brakes will be poor and you still fail the MOT

You may also have a faulty drum, causing one side to grab, giving a higher reading than the other.
Therefore there's quite a few things to check!
My traveller failed on front brake balance in April and I needed to change the shoes around to get it to pass - however I'd done a day of work checking the pistons etc.. before realising that I was going in the wrong direction.
Last edited by rayofleamington on Fri Jun 03, 2005 5:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

RE: Rear drum brakes
THanks guys, l'll go and mess about woth the pads and adjustment first and give it a go.
RE: Rear drum brakes
Errr - there are no 'pads' ! Could be a wheel cylinder has leaked fluid, or the half-shaft seal is leaking oil into the drum. If so - the cure is obvious - but you will need new shoes - it's impossible to recover oily shoes. Was the imbalance on the foot brake reading - or on the handbrake reading - or both ?



RE: Rear drum brakes
Now passed. I adjusted the shoes (not pads, oops) and that was about it. Thanks for all your help.