I need to fit New Sills and floors, Where do i start, has anyone got any pictures of one they have done?
Also the centre cross menber could do with replacing
do i need to support the car while doing this repair?
how long do you think it would take?
Replaced all the above on many VW but never done a Morris Minor.
New Sills and floors required?
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
-
- Newbie
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 5:04 pm
- MMOC Member: No
-
- Moderator
- Posts: 7679
- Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 2:55 pm
- Location: LEAMINGTON SPA
- MMOC Member: No
RE: New Sills and floors required?
Is it a 2-door saloon, traveller, or a 4 door saloon?
The 2-door is the easiest but you need to support the car carefully if you are doing sills and crossmember. Keep the doors on the car to check they still shut perfectly after you've tacked things in place - once you've welded it is too late! The engine and gearbox need to come out to take the weight off the chassis legs when removing the crossmember, and if possible, use the crossmember 1/3 section repair panels (rather than the complete crossmemeber) as it gives you the opportunity to keep most of the strength in the car during the repair.
If you are doing this on a 4-door saloon, then you are asking for trouble unless you don't mind doors that don't fit ( the 4 door is extremely prone to change shape as it has all the stability of a 'house of cards' with the floor and sills cut out).
As for floor / sills and crossmember on a traveller - I've got no idea as I've not yet done one. The wood is structural so needs to be there to keep things straight / aligned but I guess you also need to take it off to do the welding
The 2-door is the easiest but you need to support the car carefully if you are doing sills and crossmember. Keep the doors on the car to check they still shut perfectly after you've tacked things in place - once you've welded it is too late! The engine and gearbox need to come out to take the weight off the chassis legs when removing the crossmember, and if possible, use the crossmember 1/3 section repair panels (rather than the complete crossmemeber) as it gives you the opportunity to keep most of the strength in the car during the repair.
If you are doing this on a 4-door saloon, then you are asking for trouble unless you don't mind doors that don't fit ( the 4 door is extremely prone to change shape as it has all the stability of a 'house of cards' with the floor and sills cut out).
As for floor / sills and crossmember on a traveller - I've got no idea as I've not yet done one. The wood is structural so needs to be there to keep things straight / aligned but I guess you also need to take it off to do the welding

Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
