Me brake lights aren't working!Is there an inline fuse from the brake switch or could it be a duff switch?Any way of testing switch with out taking it off(& where is it?)as don't want to have to bleed brakes unless I have too.
Ta very much
Pip
Brake lights
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Gareth
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 1033
- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Hallow, Worcestershire
- MMOC Member: Yes
Dodgy Brake Lights!
Hello there!
Right, well electrical problems are either switches or contacts (assuming the bulbs are ok...
). It could be that the contacts / terminals on the switch have corroded, and are no longer making a decent contact.
At the front of the car, lean into the engine bay, and look to the left hand side of the radiator. Right in the corner, covered in I-don't-know-what will be the brake light switch.
Take the wires off, one at a time, and clean the spade terminals. Then try your brakes.
Failing that, you'll have to whip the switch out, and replace it. It's not uncommon for the units to fail, but it will probably be a bleeding brakes job, and for that, you'll have to speak to someone else, I'm afraid!!
Right, well electrical problems are either switches or contacts (assuming the bulbs are ok...
). It could be that the contacts / terminals on the switch have corroded, and are no longer making a decent contact.At the front of the car, lean into the engine bay, and look to the left hand side of the radiator. Right in the corner, covered in I-don't-know-what will be the brake light switch.
Take the wires off, one at a time, and clean the spade terminals. Then try your brakes.
Failing that, you'll have to whip the switch out, and replace it. It's not uncommon for the units to fail, but it will probably be a bleeding brakes job, and for that, you'll have to speak to someone else, I'm afraid!!
Happy Minoring!
Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
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olonas
brake light switch
If you own or have access to an electrical multimeter, disconnect the wires, as Gareth says. Switch the multimeter to resistance, connect the test leads to each terminal. Get someone to press brake pedal, if meter needle doesn't move the switch is duff.
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Chris Morley
- Moderator
- Posts: 898
- Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Berkshire
- MMOC Member: No
Ian's way is the easiest - if you have a car with the later slide-on connectors, jam a bit of wire between the connectors to create a circuit
(the input wire is live). I didn't bleed the brakes - I just added a few drops of fluid into the new switch's cavity , keeping it upside down until the last moment.
If the switch is ok, it's probably a fault with the wiring. The most likely candidate is the black rubber double bullet connector (in the bundle of wires in the O/S corner of the boot). The single wire from the stop switch goes into it & a wire goes to each stop light. This single wire can come loose.
(the input wire is live). I didn't bleed the brakes - I just added a few drops of fluid into the new switch's cavity , keeping it upside down until the last moment.
If the switch is ok, it's probably a fault with the wiring. The most likely candidate is the black rubber double bullet connector (in the bundle of wires in the O/S corner of the boot). The single wire from the stop switch goes into it & a wire goes to each stop light. This single wire can come loose.