Splitscreen Traveller

Let us all know what you are up to with your current restoration project. Get that Minor on the road!
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davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

I wasn't sure about the colour on the test piece I did (it's pine Cetol filter 7 plus) but I really like it on the timber. It's how I imagine traveller timber to look when it's new. All the travellers I see round Bath are pretty well used and have the usual dull timber with grey patchy joints.

I watched a series of videos recently on youtube with an update on the restoration of a 1947 Chrysler town and country. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2X-Lj1M3CWk If you haven't seen one before it's an enormous barge of a car. About as American as a car of the period can get. They're two doors with half a forest of ash for the frame and originally real mahogany veneered panels for the doors, rear quarters and boot lid which half way through 1947 became wood effect veneers. I assume they applied the veneer to plywood but on this resto they had it applied to metal panels as I am doing on my traveller.

I'm currently looking into the idea of using Hickory instead of Ash for a traveller frame. Hard to source in the UK but not impossible. It has much better properties than Ash in terms of rot and decay resistance. It's incredibly tough and flexible which is why it's used for baseball bats, axe handles etc. Apparently it's not very good for working with hand tools where as Ash is a dream to work with but it would be worth the extra labour if it could out perform Ash in service.
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

The top coats of wood treatment took a long time to dry fully especially where it had built up in corners etc. so I haven't touched the frames for a couple of days but last night I had a chance to fit the wing piping, panels and rear wings. The piping is the first job. Quite straight forward. Just need a stapler and I used a stanley and tin snips to cut slits to allow it to follow the curves.

[frame]Image[/frame]

I'm using the screws with a a soft backed washer that were supplied with the frames. I drill a decent sized pilot hole which is the same width as the screws shank. Pilot holes should basically remove the space that the screw shank will occupy. Imagine a bolt going into a threaded hole in metal. Same thing. Only the thread needs to cut into the timber. Some of the wing fitting requires drilling into end grain on the foot rail. Here is where a good pilot hole is critical.

[frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

I new the wing wasn't quite the right shape as I'd trial fitted it when we collected the frames so I wasn't looking forward to fitting the first wing. I got the first hole drilled then fitted the first hex headed screw at the foot rail to hold the wing in place. The shape of the wing didn't match up exactly to the shape of the foot rail/wheel arch curve so I found a middle ground where it looked 'right'. I thought the most important part was that the bottom edge (once it was the right way up on the car) lined up.

I was going to just work my way along one screw at a time but I didn't want to get to the rear end and find it didn't line up so I loosely fitted the first two screws then went to the other end to check the fit. It was pretty much bang on so I put a screw almost fully tight at the rear end to hold the wing in place. I then worked my way down the wing from both ends simultaneously. When I got to the middle the wing didn't want to cooperate so I had to loosen all the screws and use various clamps and swearing to wrestle the wing into position where it lined up with the piping. I then tightened up all the screws very slowly listening for splitting or the sound of stressed timber! You can sort of see in the photo that the metal doesn't follow the curve and actually bridges the space from screw to screw. I assume the arc of the wing isn't as long as the arc of the timber arch? Luckily it looks to be a good fit from the outside of the car which is the only important bit. I think I'll fill the gap with flexible framing sealant then paint over the top with a good exterior gloss.

[frame]Image[/frame]

The panels were the easiest part to fit. I put a thick bead of clear sealant around the perimeter of the frame where the panel would sit. You definitely want a lot of excess sealant to squeeze out as the fix the panel down so you know there's no gaps and it can either be wiped off with white spirit and a cloth or left to dry and peeled of later. The book suggested black sealant but I wanted to use clear so I could be sure any excess wouldn't be visible. Anybody know why you would use black?

I fitted the rear panel first which meant laying it onto the sealant then fitting the rear timber fillet that wedges into the groove on the inside of the rear pillar. This needed about a 1mm planing off one face due to the veneered panel being thicker than standard. Once it was in I worked my way along the panel piloting and screwing down. The fillet had 3 screws to hold in place. I did the same for the larger panel. I started it with the high points where the panel curves up and worked 'down slope' until it was down. Last job is screwing the long thin timber that runs along the top of both panels down. I then checked from the outside to make sure the panel and pulled in tight to the frame and put a screw in wherever it hadn't. Done.
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

MarkyB
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by MarkyB »

Did you use stainless staples?
I'm concerned that water will get to them and cause rusty water to stain somewhere.

"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

They're 'heavy duty' staples which have some kind of coating. I'll check the details. I'd be more worried that of they rust they'll disintegrate and the piping could fall out eventually.
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

MarkyB wrote:Did you use stainless staples?
I'm concerned that water will get to them and cause rusty water to stain somewhere.
The are 8mm galvanized staples.
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

MarkyB
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by MarkyB »

Sounds OK, I very much doubt the piping will fall out!

"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
LUR759H
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by LUR759H »

quick question is there any metal under the small sill between wheel arch and door frame to hold the sill timber in place?

thank you in advance

alan
taupe
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by taupe »

taupe wrote:They are the floor to body sealing plates fitted under the bottom of the horizontal traveller rail by the boxing extension panel.

They close the gap between the timber and the chassis and some people weld them on...

They are held with three self tap screws into the timber on the underside and one screw through the flap into the wooden wheelarch.

Here are some pics of an original ....

Image

Image

Taupe
Alan

Above is a pic of an original infill panel...

Taupe
orb596
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by orb596 »

Love the look of those panels and can't wait to see the finished result in place on the car. :D
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tysonn
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by tysonn »

Me too it looks great!
davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

I found some seats on ebay only a mile from home! they're from a Rover 75. I wanted modern leather seats with headrests for safety and comfort but they needed to have that old pattern leather. I think Jaguar seats from any 90's XK or even x-type/s-type seats would look good but rover seats seem to be cheap if you can find them for sale. I know these are blue instead of green but the car has faded to a turquoise so they suit OK. Just need to put fabricate some base mounts and they're sorted.

£25!

[frame]Image[/frame]
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

My brother in law was driving from Surrey to Wales to pick up a S2 Land Rover yesterday so we decided this was a good time to drop off the Morris. It's now at the workshop so I can get on fitting the wood and finishing stuff. We offered up a side when he arrived so here's an idea of how it'll look.

[frame]Image[/frame]
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

The Landy if anyone likes that sort of thing...[frame]Image[/frame]
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

I need to source some matching green paint for touch ups and to spray the gutters etc. Any idea what colour my moggie is? Also, I've just read the chassis no. and engine no. off the plate. they are...

Car no. FLE11/ 429139
Engine No. 31 01 06

The V5 states the engine no. as 869RJ63209

So, stupid question.... has the engine been changed? Also, does the Car no. give any info other than the fact that it's a traveller?
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

qwerty165
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by qwerty165 »

davidpidge wrote:does the Car no. give any info other than the fact that it's a traveller?
F-Morris Minor
L-Traveller
E-Mid Green
1-RHD Home market
1-Synthetic paint
davidpidge wrote:has the engine been changed
I would say it has for according to DVLA the car has a 948cc engine and a series 2 would originally have had a 803cc engine.

davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

Cheers for the info. I'm going to fit the wood over the weekend. One thing left to do before we can...

Two of the B-pillar bolts had to be cut off as they were rusted in. How do we replace the nut? Is there access? Is it a special nut that slots in to the metal retaining plates inside the pillar? If so I'll need to get them ordered.

I've been puttin all the last coats of sealant and waxoil on the frames before they can be fitted. The top window runners are fitted as this is an easier job to do before the sides are on the car.

[frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

Backtracking slightly, I managed to find a decent block of rubber on ebay thanks to Taupe.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261522136770? ... 1423.l2649

I cut off the two pieces for each side. The small block was pinned on with a single copper pin at the rear end. The larger piece has two screws and goes at the end of the wood fillet that runs about a third of the way along from the front.

[frame]Image[/frame]

I've also got two fog lamps to fit. I don't remember where I got these but they're Bosch lamps in their original box with some bulbs. There's already a hole in the front bumper on one side so I assume someone had a fog lamp on the n/s at some point. I'll drill a hole in the same place on the o/s and mount them. that's an easy job sorted!

[frame]Image[/frame]
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

[frame]Image[/frame]
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

davidpidge
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Re: Splitscreen Traveller

Post by davidpidge »

We fit the rear over the weekend. It was a bit of pain but we got there. There was all sorts of problems with bolts missing/not fitting threads etc. and the usual timber not lining up with the metal wheel arches. I'm not sure how you would cope without a large sash clamp to put across the rear of the car when your pulling the sides in. Also note that 3 layers of cardboard will not stop a g-clamp pressing a round dent into your timber if your a t*t and you tighten it up too much!

I'm also glad Chris was here to help because fitting the sides by yourself will be a right pain. We even managed to get Morris out for a test drive to test the brakes which improved with every hard stop. It has been sitting for a while so everything is seizing up. The gearbox changes nicely although 1st and reverse scratch and squeal which is unpleasant. It also pulls well. I was expecting the old 948cc engine to be a bit pathetic compared to the 1098cc.

All the electrics work but I need to get a better earth on the no. plate light. The headlining needs finishing and all the interior caps/trim need fixing in. I'm making a new boot floor before the rear seats go in then when I have time I'll make brackets/runners for the new Rover seats to replace the original seat which will then be for sale!

Chris trying to thread the nut onto the bolt coming through the rear pillar in the inside corner. Dainty hands required...
[frame]Image[/frame]

The sash clamp pulling everything in. The excess sealant being squeezed out which was then cleaned off with white spirit.
[frame]Image[/frame]

The timber is finally on for the last time. We used a ratchet strap to pull the frame square before fitting the interior top corner plates and the screws in the plates fixed to the rear pillars. When all clamps were released there was only about 1-2mm movement.
[frame]Image[/frame]
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1956 Traveller - work in progress

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