Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
I will get the numbers from the clutch housing at lunch time, can then find out where it came from once and for all! (hopefully)
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
I'v just realised that i may have on my original box a 948 release bearing which i did not put onto the gearbox. i will confirm this at lunch time. I hope this is the case as i will just swap the arm over with the 948 bearing on and hopefully it will work.
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
leverage is the same - your problem is offset. That is easy to cure by using the 948 release bearing, which was designed for a clutch with the same pretty much the same offset as the Midget 1275...As the Sprites/ Midgets use the same type of gearbox would fitting the lever arm and release bearing from one of them work instead of using what i have? Or would the leverage be the same?
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
This is a bit embarrasing but i think i may have found a cause..... I took the clutch out at lunch time and when reading the numbers off it realised i had put it in the wrong way around hence the 'Flywheel End' words stamped in it which were facing towards the gearbox not the flywheel!! When i fitted it i had just done a 7hour drive and was nackard but very keen on getting the car going.
So i will retry again tonight if i get time. making sure i put the clutch in the correct way around and also use a 948 release bearing. I have ordered a new one of those aswell.
I hope that is the reason for it not working so i can finally get out and enjoy the car!
Details of my clutch are: (if it makes any sense)
Borg & Beck
Type 6-6 1/2 D2
LL
Made in Leamington Spa England
51521 - On the clutch plate
So i will retry again tonight if i get time. making sure i put the clutch in the correct way around and also use a 948 release bearing. I have ordered a new one of those aswell.
I hope that is the reason for it not working so i can finally get out and enjoy the car!
Details of my clutch are: (if it makes any sense)
Borg & Beck
Type 6-6 1/2 D2
LL
Made in Leamington Spa England
51521 - On the clutch plate
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
Don't feel embarrassed, we've all been there.
I've done the same thing with a clutch and suspect I did the same sort of thing with my flywheel recently.
The main thing is to sort it out, and remember next time.
I've done the same thing with a clutch and suspect I did the same sort of thing with my flywheel recently.
The main thing is to sort it out, and remember next time.
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
I was going to ask earlier if the plate was in right way round........ Let's see a picture of the '948' release bearing please -because I thought the '1098' type was the longer arm version of the two.
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
Right well its fitted and i have a pedal again BUT the clutch isn't smooth it feels snappy/jerky if that makes any sense.
i dont know if it is because the box isn't sat on its suports and is just sat ontop of the jack or not? also my adjusting rod is under alot of strain as i can see it flexing when pushing the pedal down.
Out of the three boxes i have i used the release bearing that was the longest
any idea how to get rid of the snappy pedal?
i dont know if it is because the box isn't sat on its suports and is just sat ontop of the jack or not? also my adjusting rod is under alot of strain as i can see it flexing when pushing the pedal down.
Out of the three boxes i have i used the release bearing that was the longest
any idea how to get rid of the snappy pedal?
Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
Someone suggests lengthening the operating arm - to increase the leverage. This is a common problem using the Spridget clutch with mechanical operation.
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
But the clutch was fine and smooth before. i will have a play around with it later take it back off and make sure everything is tip top!
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
I have a Spridget box and clutch, but used the arm from the original 948 clutch. I find the clutch action very good.
Back to the original question, having changed the gearbox both with engine in and out of the car, I will, in future, always pull the engine and gearbox out together.
Back to the original question, having changed the gearbox both with engine in and out of the car, I will, in future, always pull the engine and gearbox out together.
[img]http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm274/bazzalucas/Morris.jpg[/img]
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
ITS FIXED!!!! Took him fo a spin this morning! Very happy!
One more question though what is the normal oil pressure for a 1275 as when i left it was around 60 and when i got back struggled to keep 20? Im sure from memory it was never that low on my 1098. There is fresh oil in the sump so its not old and mucky.
One more question though what is the normal oil pressure for a 1275 as when i left it was around 60 and when i got back struggled to keep 20? Im sure from memory it was never that low on my 1098. There is fresh oil in the sump so its not old and mucky.
Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
The oil pressure must hold 60 at decent revs - even when hot. Any less = doom. As a rough guide - 10 psi per 10 mph in top gear up to 60 will be the minimum for the engine to survive. Unless at idling of course when 20 is about right.
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
Hmmm.. i dont like the sound of DOOM! My pressure drops and stays around 20 when the engine is fully warm no matter what speed.
What are the usual causes of this?
What are the usual causes of this?
Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
Worn out crankshaft bearings and oil pump. Since you say it goes to 60 when cold - the relief valve appears to be working normally although there is a slight chance it is stuck partially open. Certainly worth checking. Maybe worth trying an oil and filter change - use 20W50 oil - ASDA/Morrisons will be fine.
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
New crankshaft bearings were fitted but thinking of it i should have fitted a new pump too. I allready use 20W50 but the one from Halfords in the old style tin drum.
Time to take the engine to bits again then! The joy's of classic car ownership!
Time to take the engine to bits again then! The joy's of classic car ownership!
Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
Do have a quick check of the relief valve - you never know!
Was the crankshaft reground before fitting new bearing shells - or just shells fitted? If so - was the crank inspected/checked for size with a micrometer ?
Was the crankshaft reground before fitting new bearing shells - or just shells fitted? If so - was the crank inspected/checked for size with a micrometer ?
Last edited by bmcecosse on Mon Oct 04, 2010 5:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
Yeah, i will check everything over i think! I have covered around 50 miles since i put in the new bearings, rings, valves etc.. but foolishly did not check the oil pump or the reliefe valve!
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
At what pressure is the relief valve supposed to kick in?
I have a feeling it's above 60 psi, if that's the maximum you ever see then a washer or two under the spring might do the trick.
What shape were the bearings in? Were the plate and spring still in the filter?
Also, how nasty was the oil and gunge in the sump,and did you change the bearings due to a failure of some sort?
I have a feeling it's above 60 psi, if that's the maximum you ever see then a washer or two under the spring might do the trick.
What shape were the bearings in? Were the plate and spring still in the filter?
Also, how nasty was the oil and gunge in the sump,and did you change the bearings due to a failure of some sort?
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
The relief valve should lift at 60/70 psi - doesn't really matter - a steady 60 psi is fine, no great advantage in having any more and it does absorb power to churn up any higher pressure. I have to say - I have never run an engine with only 20 psi....... even a rally engine that 'ran it's bearings' causing me to retire from the Mull Rally (because I knew I had to drive the car home!) could manage 40 psi even though it rattled horribly if I pressed it too hard - it was a gentle run home.
There must be something seriously amiss in an engine that can only manage 20 psi.
There must be something seriously amiss in an engine that can only manage 20 psi.
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Re: Removing/Refitting gearbox with engine still in the car?
I still have the old bearings (i think) i will double check them later but from memory to top bearing had only a small amount of the white metal removed, nothing at all major!
The oil was in the sump was very bad and thick and mucky. obviously i cleaned the sump before replacing it but recently when i changed my sump gasket i noticed a little bit more gunk in there so maybe there is some left in the engine and slowly being forced out?
I think i will strip out the engine again change the oil pump and relief valve, and check the bearings etc see whats what!
The oil was in the sump was very bad and thick and mucky. obviously i cleaned the sump before replacing it but recently when i changed my sump gasket i noticed a little bit more gunk in there so maybe there is some left in the engine and slowly being forced out?
I think i will strip out the engine again change the oil pump and relief valve, and check the bearings etc see whats what!