Front Suspension Removal

[jaguar68]

Hi Guys,

I intend to remove the front suspension from my Series II Minor so I can repaint/refurbish/rebush etc.

If I remove the suspension and the torsion bars etc, do I have to mark the current positions of the components for reassembly, bearing in mind I want to repaint the wishbones et al?

Thanking you in advance.

John

[aupickup]

just mark the thick wishbone on the front of the torsion bar and the rear arm with tippex
thats all that needs marking

[Alec]

HelloJohn,

and don't mix up right and left, make sure they go back on the side they came from.

Alec

[David53]

You can leave the front of the torsion bar connected to the arm. Mark the back of the torsion bar against the plate on the crossmember.

[Alec]

Hello David,

"bearing in mind I want to repaint the wishbones et al?"

Which to me, means removing the torsion bar from the arm.

Alec

[David53]

Yes I suppose so, or just paint the whole lot

[Crowswood]

Hi Jaguar68

Whoa! Hold it! - Bear in mind that if you paint the suspension assembly the tippex will be under the paint. Each end of the torsion bar has (i think) 48 splines. The wrongly repositioning the arms at each end of the tosion bar will change the ride height. Before you separate the arms from the torsion bar use a centre punch to 1 mark the arm close to the splines at any accessible point and then 2 mark the spline in line with that mark. Also the position of the holes on the vernier plate on the centre cross member adjusts the ride height. Note which hole the bolt goes through - a sketch (don't lose it) will help. I hope this is useful and I understood the question. Good luck

Crowswood

[bmcecosse]

I strongly suggest you should NOT mark the torsion bar in this manner! Any marks/dots/scores etc are to be avoided - they can act as stress raisers and lead to failure of the highly stressed torsion bar steel. It's not something to worry about - when re-assembling just do a quick assembly, no need to fit all the bolts - lower the car onto the suspension, bounce it a couple of times, measure it - and then adjust the lower arms accordingly on the bars. It really is 'simples' !

[Crowswood]

Whoops sorry apologies I stand corrected - the methods of 35yrs ago were wrong - head down and mouth shut in future
Crowswood

[jaguar68]

Thanks for the advice. I may see if I can mask, paint and mark the torsion bar arms in situ.

Just need to split that pesky streering arm ball joint

Regards

John

[Crowswood]

I'd love to tell you what's worked for me over the last 35yrs but I KNOW I would get shouted at. I think official way is slacken nut but leave on joint to protect the thread. Tap the around the steering arm at the joint. Support the steering arm from above with something that doesn't give. Then drive the tapered pin (thread protected by nut) up from the arm. A two proged joint splitter sometimes works but tends to mess up the rubber boot. It may need a hefty clout. Keep fingers clear good luck

[bmcecosse]

I'm afraid so - you will be 'shouted at' - the threaded end of the joint should NEVER be hit! Use this - it always works.[frame][/frame]

[aupickup]

a good starting point for height of suspension is to measure 17 inches from the bottom of the large round hole in the inner wing ( prob if original) to the centre of the bottom trunnion bolt hole on the thick widhbone, of course with no load on the torsion bar

[Crowswood]

Excellent bmcecosse - we are in agreement - the joint splitter is the best separator - the official method mentioned is merely a precis of the workshop manual section J3 - its never worked for me yet - thread abuse always causes more work - slightly off topic but far more important cos no ones looking - Is that Morayshire?

[bmcecosse]

Indeed it is mate! I'm a Fireman at Bo'ness - and of course that also makes me a Trainee Driver ! So most days I get to drive at least one 'turn' !! Which is nice.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Yes - that's me defying the 'Working at Height Regs ' !!

[jaguar68]

Clubbing the nut is the method stated in both the BMC and haynes manual. It doesn't work

Using a ball joint splitter finally seperated the joint, at the cost of the ball joint rubber boot

Is it necessary to remove the steering arm? I can't shift that with brute force and ignorance either.

Regards

John

[bmcecosse]

Just leave the arm in place. Are you getting new kingpins ??

[Alec]

Hello John,

a big problem with hitting the nut is that to be effective the arm needs to be on a solid base, not really possible on the car. (Unless considerable trouble is taken to make up a solid spacer to go between the arm and the ground.) I see no fundamental problem with hitting the nut as long as the nut is 90% on the thread. The nut will need replacement however as it will be damaged.

The steering arm is also on a taper so needs a press or the like to separate it. Tapers can be notoriously difficult to shift especially on larger items like wheel hubs.

Alec

[MarkyB]

You can release them by hitting both sides of the taper at once, I thought that was the suggested method.
A quick read of the good book suggests what you say is true but it does say to hit the sides of the taper "sharply" .
I think this is code for bash it unmercifully.
If it comes to hitting something with a thread like this then the flat side of the nut needs to be set level with the offending part and the hammer applied sharply and squarely.

[Crowswood]

Oh Bliss, Oh Joy, I'll Look you up, if I may, if I get to Bo'ness again over and out on this topic