would you replace or repair

Post by **toginthemog** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 8:46 pm

this is the n/s sill ladder piece dont know the name as it is only rotton near the front bearing in mind Bettis has his own chassis so structural strength is not the main fact I was thinking of just repairing this. If you look you can see how strong the box section chassis is. I have to order the lower sill piece and the step. My nexy question is who do I order my parts from as MGM who I got my last bits from does not answer the phone
bearing in mind this is 46years old I was pleased with it,s condition. The other side is in the same condition<br>

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Post by **LouiseM** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 8:58 pm

MGM have been taken over by Bull Motif:
http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?name=P ... ic&t=24565

Post by **toginthemog** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:18 pm

Thanks Louse I thought I had read that on a previous thread but does anyone know a contact number or web site like to get some parts ordered

Post by **bpr81a** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:22 pm

http://www.bullmotif.co.uk/

Post by **toginthemog** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:39 pm

thanks bpr must get ordering

Post by **Redmoggy** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:23 am

If its just the lower edge recon id just repair it. Make sure you use the same thickness steel. 16swg i think.
Rod

Post by **MGFmad** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:56 pm

I would agree, far easier to repair if the rust is confined to that small area.

Post by **les** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:34 pm

Yes repair, shame to cut out good metal. Give you an excuse to practice on your new welder, although looks like your first go is pretty good. How did you manage all your projects without previously having a welder?

Post by **toginthemog** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:09 pm

I have a full set of gas and that is all I have ever used on cars but tonight I have had another go and it,s not perfect but wow no distortion like I,m used to and no flames inside no underseal or sound dead,ner catching fire I have had trouble tonight with the spool to loose and the wire knotted up but put a couple of big washers on the tensioner and that sorted it next thing was the wire kept slipping and was not constant but I cleaned the roller and again put a washer on that tensioner and that seems to have got it will post some pic,s when I get more confident . [ still got my gas just incase I get a bit thats to thin]

Post by **rayofleamington** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:43 pm

I'd repair that as it's fairly localised and is likely to make a better job over all than replacing the whole of it.

Post by **toginthemog** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:54 pm

I am repairing both sides. and ordered new bottom sills kick plates and rails or what ever you call the bit on the outer edge and one rear wing 1/4 repair panel. does the under sill go from the outer edge to the inner and then curve up to the floor or is there separate piece coming down to meet it

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:44 pm

I agree - Mig doesn't start the same fires as the oxy/acetylene welding! But I find the gas welding is somehow much more 'satisfying' - once the fires have been put out that is !

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 6:04 pm

still got my gas just incase I get a bit thats to thin

I've taken to doing test welds (with the MIG) if the surrounding metal looks thin (e.g. when the grinder goes though it far too easily) - if it just blows holes then cut back further. This avoids the usual swearing when you try to butt weld a piece in and find out too late that you needed to cut back more

Post by **toginthemog** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 9:22 pm

this is something I have to learn as with oxy acc you can still weld the thin bits but I am swaying towards this mig when it runs well it,s great but the oxy acc is just near me incase