What sort of rust protection do you use?

[matt993fod]

I swear by good old Waxoyl myself. It stays good and solid for years, and it is really obvious when it needs re application. It may require more 'maintainance' than conventional underseal, but it works a treat.

I hate black underseal. It does the job for ages, then randomly stops protecting the metal, so that it corrodes discreetly underneath whilst looking fine on top! And its a bugger to scrape off.

[chickenjohn]

Yes, Waxoyl is good, Dinitrol possibly better. Basically, any anti rust waxes are far far better than horrid tarry underseal!

Maintainance of the underbody protection is a good idea for the longevity of your car because it makes you get underneath, inspect and top up the protection/ deal with any rust as needed etc. Its also a good idea to spray the cavities, sills, chassis legs, inside the a pillar every now and again.

I agree with you 100%!!!

[matt993fod]

I'm interested in trying cavity wax for protecting the inside of the doors and bootlid (since they have a habit of filling with water on most moggies). Its really runny wax that you just pour into the metalwork section and it spreads out and sets. Anyone tried this particular sort of wax?

[chickenjohn]

You can use hot waxoyl or thinner wax such as Dinitrol 3125. Use a schutz gun on a compressor. They come with a wax injection tube for cavities and make the job so much quicker and easier than the hand pump sprayer.

[MoggyTech]

Thinned down waxoyl for box sections, inside doors etc. High impact areas underneath get a different treatment. Hammerite #1 Rust Beater Primer, then Chassis Black, then Hammerite underseal with added waxoyl.

Of course that's just my own way of doing it. Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber stuff are also excellent.

I also use grease in the rust trap areas such as the rear of the front wings, and I run grease along the inside of the wheel arch lips.

The old type of underseals are useless. They look ok, but tin worm will be munching away at the metal underneath.

Oh and surface rust when found, gets treated with Loctite 7503 (tannic acid). I've been doing tests with this stuff and it works very well.

[matt993fod]

Thinned waxoyl is a good idea. I hadnt thought of that.

We remove the old type of underseal whenever possible, but dread doing so. You ALWAYS find holes underneath!

[alanworland]

My Moggy was never undersealed, but I remember a Triumph that I had was covered in it, and sure enough it looked fine. Until one day I found a little bulge, and sure enough a hole appeared in the floorpan. Hole repaired I decided that its days were numbered and I found the best method for removal was to use a really sharp scraper and when the stuff was cold and it would chip off quite well (for underseal!) I spent many a happy hour with my enthusiastic son scraping away using all sorts fo hand tools including scalpels!. We got there and felt much happier for it once it was all reprotected with Waxoyl watching it fill up and flow into all the nooks and cranny's
Sad I know, but everyone should have a hobby!

[AndrewSkinner]

My Moggy was never undersealed, but I remember a Triumph that I had was covered in it, and sure enough it looked fine. Until one day I found a little bulge, and sure enough a hole appeared in the floorpan. Hole repaired I decided that its days were numbered and I found the best method for removal was to use a really sharp scraper and when the stuff was cold and it would chip off quite well (for underseal!)

I am doing that exact thing now! I find that using a blow torch (Making sure ur not making a fire the other side ) and a scraper (the blade ones) and it comes off a treat. get all the rubish off even old paint.

[chickenjohn]

I find a hot air gun works and scraper works well for underseal removal.

[dunketh]

Wire wheel ina grinder is good too.
I hate underseal - the modern stuff is so much better. I use Hammerite underbody paint which is like industrial strength waxoyl. Never goes 'hard' and could be removed easily with the right sprirts.