OK, propped up safely for welding - now what?

[Bluesman]

Done. This car is now officially propped up safely - the A post and the first part of the sill still has enough strength. After having a look underneath, I have to admit it would indeed have been easier to fix this with the engine out of the car, but since this is/was not an option for now, I have a question or two:

The holed plates (tie plate?) in the engine bay are rotten - the drivers side more so than the "replacement leg" side, probably due to brake fluid from the T connector etching off the paint = rust access.

(The drivers side chassis leg is still sound, or so it seems anyway. STrange, given the condition of the tie plate)

What if I now rip out the chassis leg...then, the engine will have no support left where the chassis leg was...and it will rely heavily on the remaining stability of the so-so rotted tie plate and surrounding structure.. I think I am risking a deformation here = the tie plate will sag under this load.

Q: So...I will need to prop up the engine in its present position in order to unload the weight from the (RHS) engine/chassis mount, won´t I?


Q2: Getting the eyebolt out of the chassis without disassembling the entire RHS suspension - best done how? I need to get stuff out of the way while I clean, cut and weld.

Q3: I probably need to replace the tie plates. Since the chassis leg is welded against the tie plate, I would assume that the tie plate needs to go in first, after hacking off the rotten bits of chassis leg & tie plate.
What´s the best procedure/sequence?

Cheers/Richard, Sweden

[chickenjohn]

Yes, you need to support the engine- best with an engine crane or ar least support it from beneath. Really, taking the engine out is not that hard- best thing to do is remove the engine, relieve all that weight from the mounts.

I don;t know of any way to remove the eyebolt without stripping the suspension, its not hard to completely remove the suspension on the side of the rotten leg. Soak the bolts in penetrating fluid, get out the Whitworth sockets and spanners and it will be apart on 30 mins or so. (OK 2 hrs if never done before).

I would try and repair the RHS chassis tie plates if you can, or just replace the rotten sections.

[Bluesman]

I took a better look at things today, while at the garage. It´s going to be a lot of swearing if I do not remove the engine, I realize that. It can be done, but... so let´s speculate:

I need to remove the front cover, radiator, fuel hose from pump to carb, exhaust clamp, front engine mount points, rear engine mount (at bulkhead) and all cables/wires. Then, the engine can be split from the gearbox and lifted out. Correct so far?

How much gain is there in removing the engine WITH the gearbox, and how much extra pain is there involved? Gear shift assy, clutch linkage, gearbox supports...

Is it worth the pain, considering the (so far known) rusted parts are well forward of the gearbox?

I still will have to cut out the rust, clean up and weld with the car on stands - no changes there.

Tips appreciated, as always.
Cheers /Richard

[bigginger]

As far as I'm concerned, taking box and engine out together is all gain. I tried one at a time once, and have sworn never to try it again. I found removing/replacing the bolts that connect them a nightmare If you do, remenber to swing the thing so that the clutch relay shaft pops out of the box, and watch out for the spring on it...
a

[Bluesman]

"If you do, remenber to swing the thing so that the clutch relay shaft pops out of the box, and watch out for the spring on it...
"

Hmm - is that as in "If I do take out the engine only"? Please explain your warning - being a Morris newbie I sure need to know what to look out for..

Cheers /R

[bigginger]

No, that's if taking both out together. It's easy to forget the relay shaft You need to remove the prop to swing the box, but as I say, I find it easier than separating box and engine in situ
a

[steve4063]

i take engines etc out on a regular basis being a hobby restorer
and i personally find its so much easier to split the box.

i use an engine hoist as well so no weight involded i did one complete the other week and it was such a pain for the sake of 8 bolts or so the box is gone and so much easier

[bmcecosse]

The bolts between engine and box are dead easy - then just put a rope around the gearbox and lash it up to the bulkhead/battery box/anything solid. If you take the head + manifolds off the engine first - then it can be lifted out solo by hand - I have done it. If no reason to worry about the gearbox- leave it in place ! And having the front panels/radiator out the way will give you much better access to the tie-plates, and you can repair the front panels while they are out!

[Bluesman]

Ok..I made up my mind - the engine goes out before welding.

To cut a long story short - just one question:

She is now propped up, the front facing wall/bench, with easy access to the lower bolts, but I need to turn her around (nose facing garage door) to make room for the makeshift engine crane I will be using..and I cant turn her around in the garage.

The engine lift will then be done with her on the ground. Finally, I will prop her up again...

So..

Can I remove just the 4 bottom bolts from the engine/gearbox joint/flange, put her back on the ground and still drive up, turn her around and then down the garageway safely - just once?



Cheers /Richard

[bmcecosse]

Yes! But really - you don't 'need' a crane. Seems a lot of work to unprop etc etc and turn around etc etc and then re-prop! If you can't lift it yourself - lash a hefty plank of wood across (or have even seen a ladder used) and then two can share the lift one at each side best with another steering/wiggling the engine.