TRAVELLER PREPARATION FOR WOODWORK RESTORATION

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TRAVELLER PREPARATION FOR WOODWORK RESTORATION

Post by Kevin »

As this subject comes up so often I have decided to put Mike Shipmans information into a sticky posting so its easily found.

I cannot recall where I got the following info on Traveller woodwork - it was a number of years ago, so I cant give credit for it - some of you may recognise it?...
I found it very helpful:

STAGE 1: PREPARATION FOR WOODWORK RESTORATION
Before embarking on the tedious and labour intensive task of restoring the woodwork on your Traveller, it is worth making sure that the finished product is going to be worth the effort.
Areas, which are showing signs of darkening, need to be prodded with a blunt screwdriver, to check for softening. This will also apply to sections where the varnish is sound, but black and yellow marbling is apparent. This is indicative of fungi infestation, which will be working on the inner fibres.
A great deal of time can be wasted stripping the original finish off the good areas, only to find a small section is soft, and unsaveable.
The sections most likely to be affected are as follows.
1) Waist rail. Where it meets the front and rear pillars. Also check under the window runners at each end. The-waist rail is the most likely section to be affected by fungi, as the window runners retain damp and are a perfect breeding ground for the spores.(Prevention of this will be dealt with later).
2) Rear Pillar, top and bottom. Prod the area where the roof is attached and on the underside at the base.
3) Foot Rail. Where the front wheel arch and front pillars are jointed. Any opening of the joints will have let the water in. Quite often these areas can be water stained but not rotten and therefore restorable.
4) Cant Rail. Occasionally problems can occur where the roof is tacked down. Unless seriously infected this can be dealt with effectively.
5) Rear Doors. As there are no water traps, the rear doors tend to last longer then the sides. The only section prone to deterioration is the middle rail. Check behind the door lock and where it meets the hinge pillars. Normally the doors can be successfully restored.
6) Rear Base Rails. Where they meet the rear pillars.
7) Rear Top Rail. Again where it meets the rear pillars and where the roof is tacked down. Prod beneath the rear door seal, which needs removing- for a thorough restoration.
Assuming that most of the frame is in sound condition, and the refurbishment is to continue removal of certain trims and fittings will make the task easier.
Firstly remove the rear doors and hinges. This should be a simple matter of undoing the nuts and removing the bolts. It may be that some of them are rusted on and need cutting through with a hacksaw or grinder. Either way it is advisable to replace all the bolts with new, zinc-plated replacements.
Removal of the windows is essential to access the hidden areas of the middle rail. This is done by removing the inner capping rails. After taking out all the retaining screws the middle capping will need to be levered off to break the seal. The windows can then be lifted out by inserting a screwdriver under the lower runners and removing both windows and runners at the same time. Although the runners are screwed down, it is likely that they will be ineffective and can be removed from the wood once the windows are out.
Depending on the condition of the upper runners you may or may not decide to remove them. The uprights in the front and rear pillars are likely to be decayed and it is advisable to remove and replace.
The lights and reflector in the rear pillar should be taken out to make stripping and sanding easier. This also applies to the three lower bolts in the front pillar. If these do not turn easily then a sharp tap with a hammer on the screwdriver should loosen them.
The sides are now ready for stripping back to bare wood. The doors can either be restored with the panels and glass in, or for a thorough restoration they can be removed. It is advisable to leave the glass in to retain shape and strength, but with the aluminium panels out of the way the inner faces of the lower sections are much more accessible.
The panel on the nearside door is easily removed by taking out the screws. The offside door has the added complication of the locking mechanism. This only becomes a problem because of the door handle, which is invariably corroded in its housing. To facilitate removal liberally spray with freeing fluid where the shaft is located on the inside of the door. After removal of the two outer retaining screws, and the single one on the inside,
several hard strikes with a hammer and punch should shift it. If this does not work the only option is to drill out the shaft where it is held by the inner mechanism. A new handle will obviously be required, but be careful not to damage the main mechanism and rods as these are not readily available.
The restoration of the woodwork can now commence. The tools and materials required are as follows.
1) Electric hot air gun. (Paint stripper is not advisable as not only is it messy and likely to damage the paintwork, but cleaning residue from the wood is very difficult. The hot air gun will not damage cellulose paint unless very much overheated.)
2) A long handled scraper. Skarsten make a variety of scrapers with replaceable blades. These will leave a clean and flat surface needing minimal sanding.
3) A sharp chisel to get into the less accessible nooks and crannies.
4) Glass paper grades 80/100 grit.
5) Wood lightener. This is a peroxide two-part bleach supplied by Rustins or Colron. Various trade brands are also available but the contents are the same.
6) Wood preservative. Cuprinol 5 Star clear is very effective.
7) Whichever finish you have decided on. This will be covered in more detail later.
It is important that you allow enough time to complete the job properly. A full week is essential and this assumes dry conditions under cover. Different types of finish may take longer. If you are going to undertake this time consuming task it is worth getting it right first time. A few more days now will save time and effort in future maintenance.
STAGE 2 REMOVAL OF PRESENT FINISH
Whichever finish has been previously applied it is likely that the most of it is on the surface. By moving the hot air gun back and forth over a 4-5 inch area, the surface will soften and any residue in the grain will bubble out and be readily scraped off.
Always scrape with the grain, and work one section at a time until complete. Depending on how much the grain has opened up over the years will decide how much of the surface of the wood will need removing. A limited amount of discolouration within the grain will be removable by the bleach.
There will be a number of areas where grey/black patches remain. The process and success of dealing with these stains will depend on the type and cause. On an original wheel arch there may be distinct 'blueing' which originates from the threaded sleeves holding the wing bolts. This staining is coming from the centre
of the wood and no amount of scraping or bleaching will remove it. This is not necessarily indicative of rot, but it will mean using a finish, which will go some way to disguising it.
Once all the original finish has been removed with the scraper you should be left with a reasonably smooth but patchy surface. It is now worth coating the whole surface with a wood lightener. This will be a two-part system and it is important to follow the instructions. This will entail brushing the whole surface withthe A coat. This will cause the wood to darken dramatically. Leave to dry for approximately 20 minutes.Application of the B coat should be done with care, as it immediately reacts with the A coat and, any contact with the skin will result in instant burns. Brush the B coat on evenly and allow to dry. Direct sunlight will increase the effect and drying time. If the temperature is too low, or direct sunlight is not practical, you may end up with a slightly yellow surface. If this happens apply a further B coat, and dry with the hot air gun.
You should now be left with just a few dark areas around the joints. These stains can have another 2-3 applications of the bleach again using heat to speed the process. Do not try to fast dry the A coat, as it will not sink in. Another trick is to apply a saturated solution of Oxalic acid to the B coat while wet. This will again speed and accentuate the bleaching process. Oxalic acid (available from chemists) can be used on its own but is not very strong.
Any stains now left are there to stay. Check again for any softness and if no sign of rot is apparent then you must decide whether to replace the section, or ignore it. By using a finish with a slight staining, most blemishes can be successfully disguised. Once the Traveller is in regular use the sunlight will continue to lighten these areas.
The surface should now be wiped down with water to make sure the acid is stabilised, and then left to dry thoroughly. The surface should then be sanded down to smooth the raised grain.
The whole frame should now be thoroughly soaked with 1-2 coats of Cuprinol 5 Star. This must be left for 2-3 days to dry to allow all the active toxins to escape. Depending on the cosmetic standard you are trying to achieve, you may wish to bleach again some areas, which have darkened during the application of the wood preservative.
STAGE 3 APPLICATION OF REQUIRED FINISH
You may well have already decided on the finish you are going to use. If not, here are a few alternatives.
1) High gloss varnish. This is probably the most attractive finish, when used on a perfectly clean and even surface. It accentuates the beauty of the grain and allows you to see any future deterioration. It needs warm and dry conditions, and must be applied to a totally dry surface. No moisture must remain within the timber as it will be permanently trapped causing later discolouration and subsequent rot.
A good quality exterior varnish must be used. Preferably a flexible type like Dulux Exterior high gloss with an ultraviolet screen. The first coat should be thinned with white spirit by 10-20%. A further 2-3 coats should be applied leaving 24 hours between coats, and rubbing down between coats.
Dulux supply a basecoat, which can be applied before the varnish, which aids protection. It will darken the wood to a deep honey colour. This can be a great advantage if you are not starting with a perfect surface. Coats can be applied in various amounts to different sections until an even colour is achieved. Rubbing down with a fine sandpaper or green kitchen scourer is advisable before applying the varnish.
As with all finishes regular maintenance will be necessary. At least once a year a further coat will need to be applied. If done before it becomes visibly necessary this should only take a couple of hours. The disadvantage with varnish is that if this regular maintenance is not done, damp will get behind the surface, and being unable to escape, cause surface discolouration and wet rot.
2) Microporous finishes. There are now many of these products on the market. Sadolin, Sikkens, Dulux Woodcare and Burgess Woodsealer are some of the better known brands. Apart from the Burgess these are semi opaque, and the more coats you apply the less the wood grain is left visible. Various colours are available, and this can be very useful if badly stained wood needs covering up. The Burgess Woodsealer darkens the wood, but under the surface, and therefore leaving the beauty of the wood intact. A certain amount of any stained areas of the wood will also be covered satisfactorily.
All of these products work on the basis of letting the wood breathe. Any water, which gets in will eventually dry out. During the course of a year, there will be movement within the woodframe, and water will invariably get in at the joints. With a varnish finish the only place the damp can get out, is at the same small crack. With a microporous finish it can escape throughout the whole surface.
The disadvantage of the semi-opaque versions, besides cosmetic considerations, is the inability to see any problems occurring below the finish. Also one has to question the ability to keep the damp out. Rain will run off, but air moisture must surely be able to get in as easily as it gets out. This is no problem: with durable hardwoods, but with ash this will eventually be detrimental.
3) Saturation type finishes. Danish oil, Deks Olje, Owenircl etc. Experience of this type of finish has shown it to be ineffective on ash, unless regular coats are applied, i 3-4 times per year. Application is a long and laborious task, requiring upwards of 10 coats. It does not solve the problem of water ingress at the joints and this is where the later problems will still occur. Linseed oil is a similar process and very effective. However as it does not dry completely it very quickly attracts general road dirt which is not removable. To be effective it must again be coated regularly to keep the surface waterproof.
4) Combination finish. This is my own personal preference based on experience and consultation with various suppliers.
With the Cuprinol dry and re-bleached, give 2-3 coats of Burgess Woodsealer diluted with water by 25%. This needs to be applied wet on wet.(Do not allow to dry between coats as the amount of Woodsealer which penetrates the wood will be reduced). It is advisable to limit yourself to one side at a time and keep out of direct sunlight as the Woodsealer dries in 15 minutes. Having completed this carefully, making sure no streaks occur, allow drying for 2 hours minimum. Then rub back lightly to smooth the grain and apply a further coat to any areas where needed to even the colour.
This leaves you with a preserved microporous surface. A gloss surface can now be applied. Burgess supply a clear topgloss which is microporous and dries in 15 minutes. 2-3 coats will achieve a semi-gloss. Further coats will increase the gloss. My own preference is to apply 2 coats of topgloss, or 2 further coats of Woodsealer to all interior surfaces, then coat all the exterior surfaces with a Marine quality varnish. This achieves the best of both worlds. Any damp, which finds its way into the wood, can still escape but the surfaces subjected to the weather are sealed. Varnish takes very well to Burgess and does not need thinning. Adhesion is increased and surface peeling will not occur as rapidly. Yearly coats are still recommended.
Whichever process you decide on, time and patience are essential. Properly finished, yearly maintenance can be reduced to a few hours only. Less time than one would normally spend on the metalwork.
AREAS REQUIRING SPECIAL ATTENTION
Any joints, which have opened, should be filled with waterproof filler. A resin type glue mixed with sawdust works well and looks good. Any small areas of softwood should be treated with a wood hardener. Colron supply a liquid resin, which works well. Make sure the area is treated with preservative first. Large areas treated this way will obviously be unsightly but when properly saturated the end result is very effective.
Large sections of filler are not only unsightly, but will be unsuccessful. They will separate from the wood very quickly, allowing damp behind, and soon drop out.
The middle rails are the sections most prone to rot. Water is retained in the window runners and often trapped in blocked drain holes. Rainwater must be allowed to flow freely and quickly through the window runners, along the rebated channelling in the wood, and down through the drain holes. Any blockages will increase the likelihood of leaks. While the windows are out, clean out the drain holes and plug them from underneath masking tape over the holes will successfully seal them). Then fill them with preservative and keep them topped up for 24 hours. Drain off the excess and allow to dry. Do not coat the inside of the holes with varnish or sleeve with metal or plastic. This will increase the risk of rot and make it difficult to treat in the future.
In following years, one can plug up the holes and pour the preservative in without taking out the window runners. About 1/2 a pint will suffice, pouring carefully along the length of the runner, and again leaving in overnight. Do not pour in too much, as this will flood over the channelling and dissolve the sealant between the capping and middle rail. Ideally this should be done each year in the autumn.
The joints at each end of the middle rail need to be filled with sealant to stop water running into the front and rear pillars. This will prevent the common problem of rot originating deep within the rear pillar.
While the rear lights and bolts are out, the holes should be thoroughly preserved and sealed.
Seal the base of the rear pillars, front foot rails and rear base rails with Hammerite or underseal. This also applies to the inside of the wheel arch where the wing is fixed. This can also be heavily coated with Waxoyl to give further protection.
When refitting the middle capping rails make sure they are properly sealed, especially at the ends, as this is where leaks are most likely to occur. Do not fit capping rails with any sign of fungi contamination without thoroughly treating with preservative. When fitting the rear doors, insert ail the bolts, and fit the nuts without tightening. You can then align the doors to the highest practical point, making sure they are level, before finally tightening. The rear door seal, of the correct quadrant type, should then be fitted. The doors should then have to be closed together if a watertight, rattle free fit is to be obtained.
CONCLUSION
The success of the restoration will depend on patience and attention to detail. Do not cut corners, as the results will quickly become apparent. Do not re-use rusty screws or bolts. If replacing the window runner use the correct type, of the right quality. They may be more expensive but they last considerably longer.
If you have any doubts about the condition of any of the wood, consider replacing it. Usually it is quicker, and always more successful to replace, than try and save a section in poor condition. Never try and scarf sections in. It will only detract from the resultant finish and therefore the value of the car. As with filler the joint will soon crack.
BE AWARE THAT THE WOODWORK IS A STRUCTURAL PART OF THE VEHICLE. IF ONE SECTION IS ROTTEN IT AFFECTS THE STRENGTH OF THE WHOLE FRAME.

_________________
Mike S. - New Forest, Hampshire.

...and "Benny"...
Cheers

Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)

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scarysal
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Helpful article

Post by scarysal »

Thanks so much for all that useful information, I have just bought a traveller which had a small patch of rot in the waist rail, which I have now treated with your article in one hand and paint brush in the other.
Sally Johnstone
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Post by SteveandWilliam »

Further to the above, I have been treating my traveller's wood. I haven't removed the wood from the car as it is in good condition, but wanted a surface that gave good protection, looked good and was easy to maintain. I opted for "Burgess", but just wanted to put on record some hints and tips for applying this, as I didn't find it easy.
It is funny stuff. I applied it to wood that was sanded smooth and soaked in as much wood preserver that it would take. Don't try to do all the wood at once. Do sections at a time. I will explain why later.

1. If applied with a brush Burgess beads and runs, and doesn't go into the wood. You can load it with a brush, then rub it in with a cloth.
2. Best method of application is to soak it onto a cloth and then apply to the wood with this. Make sure the cloth is dripping with the stuff- it prefers the cloth to the wood!
3. Have a wet cloth nearby- if it gets onto the paintwork, and it will, wash it off immediately. If you leave it on the paint for 15 minutes, it won't wash off (you can get it off later with a bit of effort and polish, so its not irrevocable.)
You can try protecting the paintwork with paper or cloths, but unless you take the panel off(e.g. the door) it is difficult to stop it getting behind the covers- in the end I just did it in little sections and washed it off the paintwork, as above.
4. It says it can be applied to wet wood- indeed, it goes into the wood better if the wood is slightly damp.
5. It says 2 coats are sufficient. Probably right, but I just kept going back over a section until I was satisfied enough it had gone in. If you let it dry then try another coat it doesn't take easily. Best applied wet-on-wet, so again small sections at a time until you are happy, then move on to the next section.
6. Don't rub the wet coat too hard, as it seems to form a skin, and you will rub this off, giving a patchy appearance.
7. The gloss is another post entirely!

Is it worth it? Yes, very much so, I think. I have done one side and the doors and they look great, and am just completing the other side in readiness for the new season. It doesn't take that long, but it just takes a lot of care. I don't know how long it will last though.

There are probably much better ways of approaching this, but I thought people might like to hear my experience. Best of luck!
Steve & William
If you are good with a hammer, you think everything is a nail.Image
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Post by LouiseM »

The post from Steve & Kelly, and subsequent responses, are now in a separate thread:

http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... ic&t=28437


Eric - 1971 Traveller
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