Leaf spring maintenance

Post by **chilly** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:45 am

Should I be doing anything to look after my leaf springs?
I seem to remember a tip about painting them with engine oil. Would this be beneficial?
There's nothing wrong with them, they just appear to be very 'dry' looking.
Any other tips welcome.

Cheers
Chris

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 1:17 pm

Well they are so inexpensive it's hardy worth worrying about them. But it is one way of getting rid of old engine oil! Fill it into a spary container and spray it on ! In the past leaf springs were wrapped in leather/rubber/fabric - but not really worthwhile. Worry more about the rubber mounting bushes at each end - these need periodic renewal - and you can of course get polyurethane replacements which last longer but may be harsh and may feed more load into the chassis leading to cracking. Most important thing is to make sure the dampers are doing a good job - see recent threads on this subject.

Post by **chrisd87** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 1:34 pm

I think the haynes manual says rub some petrol/oil mix onto the springs.

Post by **Packedup** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 2:39 pm

I know very little about leaf springs, but I'm sure I recall hearing many tales that included oiling them from time to time.

As they flex then by design surely they rub on each other, so oiling reduces the wear. At least, that's how I understand it to be...

Post by **paulk** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 2:44 pm

Yep Most of the 40's handbooks suggest oiling the springs. Some used to have zinc plates between leaves to act as lubrication. It's supposed to be softer too because the leaves have less friction between them

Except Land Rovers which are supposed to be dry to make the leaf spring stiffer for off road.

Post by **chickenjohn** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 3:18 pm

Waxoyl (or simmilar) can be used on leaf springs- not on the rubber bushes though. Waxoyl sticks around longer on the leaves than oil.

Post by **Packedup** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:26 pm

But old oil is (sort of) free, Waxoyl usually isn't

Post by **chilly** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:59 pm

thanks all

Post by **rayofleamington** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 6:16 pm

most of mine are well lubricated with a orange/brown dust ;-)
Seems to work really well as I've never had one fail....

Post by **minor_hickup** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:41 pm

We used to oil the leaf springs on our old landy with an oil can in an effort to reduce the cohesion between the springs and get a little more comfort. Seemed to work a little.

Post by **wanderinstar** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 8:58 pm

I remember reading somewhere about stripping spring down to seperate leaves and then fitting strips of, cant remember what it was actually called, but apparently it is obtainable from builders merchants. Think it was the black damp-proofing strip used when building walls. Its quite slippery so makes springs a bit softer and they shouldn,t wear as fast either.
If used with stiffer dampers, we get back to Colin Chapmans philosophy.
Ian.

Post by **Cam** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 1:47 am

Yes, my MGB has some sort of plastic material in between the leaves of the springs.

Post by **chickenjohn** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:19 am

Packedup wrote:But old oil is (sort of) free, Waxoyl usually isn't

True, but if you're waxoyling the underside of the car anyway, a squirt on the leaf springs won't cost much extra, or take much extra effort.

It makes the springs a bit quieter and as said above may help the ride slightly.

Post by **bigginger** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:37 am

wanderinstar wrote:I remember reading somewhere about stripping spring down to seperate leaves and then fitting strips of, cant remember what it was actually called, but apparently it is obtainable from builders merchants. Think it was the black damp-proofing strip used when building walls.

It's called DPC, or damp proof course

Post by **paulk** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:54 am

Can't imagine DPC lasting long.

But I've got plenty lying about might try it when I've got time

Post by **bigginger** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:58 am

I presume it's the thick, shiny version they mean - I've never quite believed it either - let us know how you get on with it

Post by **wanderinstar** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 2:08 pm

Have found where I got the info from. It was Owen Burtons Morris Minor Modification Manual, page 31.It states,

" You can get a smoother ride from your leaf springs if you put some strips of polypropylene between the leaves. You will need to make up a longer centre bolt for the springs [ some have a spacer that can be removed]. It does make quite a big difference to the ride though. Polypropylene can be obtained from any builders merchant, as it is used for both strip DPC for walls [usually black and about 1mm thick] and sheet DPC used for floors [ usually coloured blue and about 2mm thick]."

I presume it must last a reasonable time otherwise it would not be in the manual.
Ian.

Post by **bigginger** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 2:15 pm

I guess so, but (I'm sure I'm in a misguided minority here) I tend to take a lot of Mr Burton's advice with a fairly hefty pinch of salt

Intresting book, all the same

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 2:23 pm

Keep it standard - the friction between the spring leaves adds considerably to the damping of the suspension!

Post by **wanderinstar** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 2:41 pm

Dont know Roy. Just changed mine from 7 leaf, with 2nd leaf broken, to 2nd hand 5 leaves and the 5 leaves seem stiffer.