1966 2 door saloon Milly restoration project

[David JM]

Cheers John, I'll check that out.

[svenedin]

My car has had an electric washer pump since before I owned it but I recently replaced the Trico pump as it wore out. The replacement Lucas pump is polarity sensitive. My car is positive earth. The + terminal of the pump is connected to earth e.g. to one of the pump mounting screws with a ring terminal. The negative terminal of the pump goes to the switch and the wire can be routed via the same hole as the water tubing (through a grommet of course). The other terminal of the switch is connected to any convenient fused ignition switched live, which for neatness sake, in my case, is taken from behind the dashboard. Note also the correct in/out ports for the water tubing. The tube that goes into the washer bottle should be fitted with a non-return foot valve that incorporates a mesh filter. This prevents the pump from operating dry (which will quickly destroy it).

Stephen

IMG_2184.jpeg (1.74 MiB) Viewed 367 times

[svenedin]

looking through my HAYNES manual, thew sparkplug gap should be .025 of an inch.so where do we say the .025 is on this scale 1.2.or 3, anyone help me out here?

Definitely 3. If you fit a high-output coil you can open the gap further to 30 or even 35 thou.

Stephen

[David JM]

Thank you Stephen, great reply, much appreciated.

Dave

[David JM]

Today was a day of easy simple wins, my new Mig welder is very impressive, it's not even half the size of my old one and a fraction of the weight, yet does a better more accurate job.


first win was the broken off seat bolt, cut the retaining nut with a 1mm nut splitting disc and simply welded in a new one.


that was the last snag to moving on and getting the interior in, here, Harry and his Mum use vinyl cleaner before the seats go in.

[David JM]

What a great day, all the welding done, fuel in line filter leak sorted, the fuel gauge is functioning, the wash pump was working but has now given up the ghost. So new one on order. Great test drive along some country roads, she drives so smoothly now, with that clutch linkage swap out. a real pleasure. Here's Harry, the new proud owner in the driving seat.

[David JM]

later on a nice easy win for Harry, he made a bracket to stop the crank handle stop rattling around in the boot using a pre existing bolt hole in the floor to tie it up nice and tight.


quite a nice fabrication job.

[firedrake1942]

The original black plastic tool bag used to do that quite well- I always wrapped the tools in old cloth off-cuts though. I still keep one under my driver's seat out of long habit as I frequently had to use it in the late 1970s / early 1980s.

[David JM]

Next part to be fabricated is the cross brace spanning the bonnet that attaches to the bonnet hold up linkage.


cutting out a cardboard model and holding it up the the original on my Pickup, compared for size.


using the cardboard model as a template to mark out metal blanks.

[David JM]

welded onto the cross brace and a pin placed through to the bonnet hold up linkage. Works fine, the cross piece was welded together from two bent and shaped pieces, it's only tac welded in so far, finish it off tomorrow. I can put the shotgun cleaning rod away that i used to hold up the bonnet.

[David JM]

Not sure how we missed this switch, it operates the horn. So all systems are now up and running. Harry does intend to replace the steering wheel by one from ESM, stylish wood one, so he won't have to worry about wiring in the horn push for a while.

[David JM]

Having way too much fun for a bloke who is 62 Tomorrow, selfie taken old school of course, not with a smart phone oh no, with Cannon Digital Camera.