bodywork

Post by **emmerson** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:30 pm

nicky573 wrote:pontypool a bit of support is what i need

Nicky, we've offered support, but you've not contacted us.
The offer still stands.

Post by **Kevin** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 6:39 pm

Well the free beer sounds good to me and I live a little futher

Post by **emmerson** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 3:46 pm

Kevin, if you come over, I'll buy the first one!

Post by **nicky573** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 6:58 pm

been working on car geting it ready for the welding, been on that website Bullmotif see the price of chassis legs there is a few of them witch ones do i need, going to have a go at cangeing the master cylinder is it a big job or little job.

Post by **Dean** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:13 pm

nicky573 wrote:going to have a go at cangeing the master cylinder is it a big job or little job.

Remove the small plate under the drivers feet, put some rag to catch the brake fluid under where the pipes go into the master cylinder. Undo both brake pipes. Now undo the plunger the other end that connects the unit to the brake pedal.

The next bit is a toughy as it depends which way the bolts are through the chassis leg underneath. If the heads foul against torsion bar preventing you from sliding them out.. don't do as the manual says and remove the torsion bar. On mine I found a decent tyre lever under the lug where the pedals swing was enough to push the bar down and quickly pull the bolt out in a two stage process. Firstly rest the head of the bolt on the top of the bar.. and relax. Repeat the process except this time pull the bolt out. Always make sure the tyre lever is pushed hard into the chassis leg so it doesn't ping off and possibly hurt your fingers while pulling the bolts out. Repeat for other bolt.

The whole unit should now wiggle out of the chassis leg. Use plenty of rags again to catch any fluid.

It's a bit fiddly but I found the new cylinder went in easier after learning how to remove my old cylinder.

If you are keeping this part of the leg, then it's a good opportunity to get some of the rust out, prep and paint it.

Post by **nicky573** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:04 pm

thanks for your help dean ill give it a go to tomorrow.

Post by **Dean** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:19 pm

Thanks... just watch your fingers as you pull the torsion bar down, it's not easy. ;)

Post by **alainmoran** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 11:32 pm

Yowzers ... taking the torsion bar off isnt that bad a job, and if he is replacing the legs he will need to do that anyway ... I'd go for removing the torsion bar than risk bending/stressing a suspension component.

Post by **alex_holden** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 2:20 pm

You don't have to bend it very far, and it's made of spring steel.

The most difficult bit is finding a suitable lever.

Post by **nicky573** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:24 pm

the spring on the pedal has snaped, is that y the brakes dount work, can the spring be fixed.

Post by **alex_holden** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:31 pm

A broken brake pedal return spring will stop the pedal coming back up when you take your foot off it. You can buy a new spring to replace the broken one. http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... cts_id=474

I hate fitting them - it's very fiddly due to restricted access to the inside of the chassis leg.

Post by **alainmoran** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 5:01 pm

Aye ... its a pig of a job

Post by **PSL184** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 5:09 pm

....but it won't stop the brakes from working

Post by **millerman** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 7:23 pm

Does this help re removing brake m/c

Post by **nicky573** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 7:43 pm

thanks for that millerman good thinking.

Post by **nicky573** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:08 pm

is there another way of doing this to the back of car. and is it safe.

Post by **stag36587** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 11:25 pm

that's an excellent way of doing it millerman

Post by **nicky573** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:51 pm

cant get that orther bolt out,it will not move.

Post by **Dean** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:54 pm

Releasing oil around the head of the bolt, sqwert some down the bolt from the other side into the master cylinder. Give it 24 hours.... then smack it one with a mallet..

Post by **nicky573** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 2:16 pm

still got the nut on it,it wount turn