My Engine Rebuild

[James k]

I got back to work on the engine today after a couple of weeks in Germany and a busy week here. I removed the timing chain and gears, camshaft, crankshaft and pistons. I've kept everything in order and put the caps back on the con rods. I couldn't manage to remove the distributor drive shaft, I must be missing something obvious. To my inexperienced eye the camshaft looks fine, like good ones I've seen in pictures. Nothing has jumped out at me as being wrong with anything. I'll give it all a good clean up tomorrow and get some pictures up.

[bmcecosse]

I'm surprised you got the camshaft out without removing the dizzy drive. It can be done...but. The drive just lifts out - use one of the screws from the cam follower covers - screw it into the drive shaft and wiggle/lift it out.

[James k]

I gave the crankshaft and camshaft a good clean today, I'll get the pictures up tomorrow. I've realised that the reason I can't get the distributor drive out is because the mounting plate is still on. I can't work out how to get it off. I've taken the bolt out but it won't budge

Also, is there a good way to clean out the oil strainer? Can the gauze be removed to clean inside?

[bmcecosse]

That retaining plate is quite fragile -care with it! Wash the mesh in paraffin - no you can't get inside it...

[James k]

Okay, I'll try soaking it in paraffin. How should I try to get the retaining plate off? I've tried levering it off but it doesn't seem to be going anywhere

[bmcecosse]

Try bumping it round with a piece of timber between the hammer... Actually - why not just leave it well alone....? Since you managed to get the cam out ok - it should go back in.

[philthehill]

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mo ... 343fa.html

The strainer can be removed from the pipe so giving a bit of access to the inside.
As regards the retaining plate (housing distributer) (Pt No: 1G1300/12A1136/2A612 (MOSS)):- remove the 1/4" UNF bolt and carefully (as above) knock the retaining plate to rotate it and at the same time soak in release oil, keep rotating until it is free and can be pulled out of the block.

[bmcecosse]

It is always 'snug' - and easily broken....

[philthehill]

Whilst you may have removed the cam shaft without removing the distributer drive I very much doubt that you will be able to refit the camshaft without removing the distributer drive. You will need to ensure that the off-sett on the top of the distributer drive is in the right place - so the retaining plate and distributer drive will have to be removed to enable the shaft to be rotated as required .
Trying to remove and refit the camshaft without removing the distributer drive shaft increases the possibility of damaging the cam shaft bearing(s) and their replacement and subsequent line boring is a specialist engineering job.

[bmcecosse]

Indeed - but the final placing of the slot is not all that important - the dizzy can usually be positioned to work round that if necessary.

[les]

---but then you have to buy more ht leads to get them to reach the plugs One thing leads to another!

[James k]

I'll give it a go with a hammer and wood block but won't force it. I don't think I damaged anything getting the camshaft out, I didn't have to struggle with it, it just came out easily. here are some pictures of the crankshaft or camshaft. I don't know how much you can tell from them, I can take some more if that would be useful.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[James k]

Also, is there anywhere that I can get a valve guide drift without having to get one made?

[philthehill]

I am not ware of one being available commercially.
The one I use I made and have been using it this morning to press out some exhaust valve guides.
these are the dimensions:-

Overall length...................127mm.
Large dia.........................11mm............... Note:- Must be able to pass through head.
Small dia.........................7mm................ Note:- Must be a free fit in the valve guide.
Length of small dia.............25mm.

All the above original taken from genuine BMC valve guide removal tool.

I tend to press the valve guides in and out these days as knocking the guides into or out of the head can damage the guide and then it requires a reamer to clean up the damage to the guide.[frame][/frame]

[James k]

Do you know vaguely how much a workshop would charge to make one?

[les]

It's not an easy question to answer but if you took a piece of bar down to them, (3/8 diameter) maybe a fiver. I use a similar tool for removal but for installing the guides I have one with a built in stop, as the guides need to protrude from the head a specific distance 19/32 seems to ring a bell, check that though.

[James k]

Okay, I'll give a shop a ring and try to get a price.

[bmcecosse]

The crank and cam look fine to me. New shells and a new oil pump should do it. There are various length guides around, so don't be too guided by a size.... I leave 4 in and tap the new ones in to the same height - then bash the old ones out. The tool should be a snug fit inside the guide to prevent the guide collapsing in - but not sop tight it jams in the guide! If the guides are deep frozen they tap in easily enough. Ask for the loan of a tool - maybe someone near you has one ?

[philthehill]

19/32" it is[frame][/frame]

I have just found this tool on 'e' bay and which may be useful.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tool-for-Valv ... 280512ed1e

[bmcecosse]

If you use that with the longer guides there will be trouble ahead! The important thing is to make sure the the spring cap doesn't get near the guide on full lift....